JonnoHR31

i had similar problems, tried shitloads of different earths, read that you have to wire the ground to an2 and set it to delta an1-2. i tried this and the readings were different, in the end i found it closest to correct when i wired it up this way but switched off the delta an1-2. also had to use a seperate ground for a couple of wires i think, cant really remember. fkn weird shit

i had to get a new lc-1 under warranty and its died again now, they replaced it straight away the first time so there was no doubt it was a manafacturer fault. anyway i purchased myne through this guy, was very helpful and returned it for me to get fixed under warranty. http://stores.ebay.com.au/superior-auto-pa...634Q2ec0Q2em322

just to clear up your confusion the first 2 numbers refer to the turbine side, in this case both turbos mentioned use a gt30 turbine, which is usually 60mm in diameter. therefore the turbine housings between these turbos are exactly the same and 100% interchangeable. a .63 gt3071 housing is identical to a .63 gt3082 housing. the second 2 numbers refer to the compressor wheel. it used to be used in the same way as the turbine side, as in a gt3040 (now gt3082) was a gt30 turbine with a gt40 compressor, similarly a gt3037 (3076) used a gt37 compressor. but this was changed and now the diameter of the compressor wheel is used instead, so a gt3071 has 71mm compressor wheel, a gt3082 has a 82mm compressor wheel.

you'll max the turbo before you reach the limits of the standard bottom end

aslong as the old ones are still in one piece they'll be fine

check for air leaks again. if your absolutely 100% certain there are none then check fuel pressure

check for air leaks in the intake piping

or just buy bkr6e which are already at .8?

25 psi will be fine for the turbo itself

370/480=77% not sure what the latency settings for them are but yours seam a little high? i also left the lag settings as standard

Hes mostly correct. If you cannot change the ignition timing at all and it doesnt knock on 91 with that timing then it'd be a complete waste to run 98 as it burns slower and costs more. But due to it burning slower and being more resistant to knock you can run more timing compared to 91 before it knocks, which far outweighs any minute gain you'd have with a faster burning fuel (91) with less timing. At the end of the day, contrary to popular belief, 99% of standard cars arent worth putting 98 in. The extra cost simply isnt worth the very small gains, if there are any at all. If you have the ability to change the timing then you'll allways make better power/torque with higher octane fuels and possibly better economy too, but its up to the user whether they can justify the cost. And i doubt the e10 98 would give you the same burn properties of 95 without the knock, as octane ratings are essentially a measure of a fuels resistance to burning and knocking, i'd say it'd essentially perform like 98 but maybe with a tiny bit of the cooling benefit of ethanol, which would make it slightly more knock resistant.

yer put 1 washer either side of the banjo the water return fitting is a steel line sticking out the back of the plenum, in standard form a rubber hose goes onto this then goes around the back of the head where it joins a steel line to the turbo

i have 11 of the 12 you need sitting here if you want them? i just used small washers on myne as with the thick ones i had no thread left for the nuts

screws into the intake side of the head right next to the front of the inlet cam

not sure but probably

true

yer washers help. bunnings is helpful for that

can get t4 divided housings to suit gt35s. but it doesnt matter either way, single scroll will work fine on a twin scroll manifold

turbo to dump are 12mm afaik

definately 100% the head thats needs modifying

dont use a rattle gun, most of that stuff doesnt need to be as tight as you'd think. just nip it up fairly tight with a normal sized ratchet. nissan want too much for exhaust manifold nuts so i got some from a fixings shop in wangara, cost about $5 for a full set. just take a stud in and get some high tensile nuts in the right thread little off topic but if you have a spare exhaust manifold gasket i'll buy it off you

only with the standard ecu, the datalogit suggest the OP has a power fc, which doesnt do anything with knock readings other than show a number dying coils do not kill bearings

apart from the lug the 30e and 25det brackets looked identical to me, so i used to the 30 one, bolts straight up

buy this gasket http://www.lewisengines.com.au/prod251.htm take head to workshop with the gasket and tell them to weld and machine to suit that gasket

most 30 blocks are machined there from the factory just finished bolting my covers on, used the standard 30 bottom cover and 25 top cover and it clears the belt fine