JonnoHR31

get an exhaust shop to make one or do it yourself if your handy with a grinder and welder. i made myne up and tacked it together then got it welded properly at an exhaust shop

doesnt have to be perfect if you have the machined surface there, when you tighten up it'll pull itself square. i used one of the gates belts off just jap and drilled exactly where the guide says to but couldnt even get the belt on, was too far out. ended up using 2 tensioners down the bottom and the belt went straight on, wtf?

made? they bolt straight up with standard 33 calipers and s13 knuckles

would also like to know. mynes been snapped off since i got it and have previously been able to check by looking at where it used to be but cant do that anymore

or you easterners could fill up drums from the bowser and ship them over to us

tell us more. interested

yep. dont need to go to 4000rpm tho, vct should activate as soon as you touch the throttle from idle

with todays fuels the 30e compression is better than 30et compression, even for turbo. plenty of people running over 1 bar with assorted turbos on 30e+t's

wrong. boost threshold is the minimum rpm required to reach target boost. lag is the amount of time it takes to reach full boost after planting the throttle above the boost threshold. getting technical but you should know this

huh NA 30 bottom ends are probabaly the strongest of the RB series +1 for 30det, i bought a complete 31 fairly cheap for the block, sold heaps of other bits off it which have pretty much paid for the basic 30det stuff (vct weld, gasket, belt etc). download a copy of the rb25 workshop manual and go for it

you cant use anyone elses settings, its different for every car. if you cant do it find someone local who can. theres a guide on here for setting it up, do a search

no they're different. you need a green sticker afm for a silvertop, they're the same as s1 rb25

1. tune car on e85. 2. fill up with random amounts of e85, e70 or anything in between. 3. more skids, less stress. as has been said, if its tuned properly with e85 it will not knock on e70. if its tuned properly on e70 it will not be dangerously lean on e85

check the website, its all on there

aslong as its available for silvias go nistune, buy the chip, software and license all in one go. give us a yell if you need any help setting it up

just make sure you keep a close eye on the price, i used the same bloke to weld the vct feed on my 25 head and he changed his quote 3 times. also ignore anything he says about compression

q45 has a much norrower range than the z32, as in 1v from both afm's will see the q45 flowing a lot more air, likewise 2v and probably 3v. but get closer to 4v and 5v and the z32 is flowing more air at the same voltage. z32 afm's support more peak power than q45s, just look at the standard pfc airflow maps for both and it becomes quiet obvious.

pfc's dont learn so re setting wont do anything. whats the idle voltage like now that you fixed the wiring?

torque makes fun, not rb20s

never seen any read lean. this is my standard 25 with fmic, zorst and too much boost

check connections in the plug and on the afm. see if anyone local can lend you another afm to try, s1 rb25 is the same as silvertop rb20

just finished doing this tonight. couldnt get enough bite to pull it out without drilling and tapping it a fair way through, but i simply loctited the bolt i used in there and am going to cut it off flush with the front. due to tapping it so far and not having a long enough 1.5mm drillbit i had to put the hole in the side a bit further back, but i had a good look inside the head and i cant see it making any difference. anyone done anything special to make sure the plug doesnt come out? its pretty tight but i wanna make sure its not gonna move.

do the intake mod, its super easy. fit new plugs and gap them down if need be (until they stop missing under load) if it still knocks use the temporary adjustment on the pfc to pull out a couple of degrees of timing and see if it still knocks

yer i know you guys do, just saying most dont.

yellow are q45 afm's. try just jap, nengun etc for a genuine z32