JonnoHR31

he means take it to brad at wa suspensions. where did you get the wheel alignment? most shops dont even drive the car when doing them so have no idea how straight it drives.

opens when it receives boooooost

same teeth as the other position i think. which is 152 from memory

flywheel and pressure plate bolts are all the same. not sure about the bell housings bolts but they should be too

yer i have a metal intake pipe and also dont have any issues but i made sure it was nice and long with a decent bend in it. but the only reason i made one was to suit the 4" intake on my turbo. if you have a small turbo inlet theres no reason to use a metal pipe

try search next time http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...l&hl=rev210

nothing at all dodgy about it. you cut the stocker pipe, put an offcut of exhaust pipe in there and hose clamp both parts of the intake pipe to it. intake pipe wont change what airflow the afm maxxes out at, once again stocker would actually be better than a metal pipe as it has the ribs in it to stop any reversion

when your talking about fuel consumption and injector duty rpm is rather irrelevant, yes i know it makes a difference due to latency but its fairly insignifigant, even at idle (the lowest fuel consumption apart from fuel cut) the latency for most injectors is still less than the actual open time. for a rough guide you can use inj duty to determine what gears are more efficient for certain speeds

just keep the standard intake pipe with the afm in the standard position. if it sucks closed then put a small piece of exhaust pipe in the middle of it, theres a guide on here. you do not need a bigger intake pipe with a highflow

the difference between running e85 and e70 on the same map would be less than 1 AFR point, which isnt going to cause any problems. and if you have so much timing in it that it pings with e70 (would be richer aswell having been tuned on e85) your probably past BMT which is pointless and dangerous. at the end of the day unless your chasing every last killerwasp of power you could just have a conservative tune and run e70, e85 or anything in between and still make much better power than on petrol

gap the plugs down further. i had myne at .5-.6mm with standard coilpacks, they're shit when they get this old

thats gay.... my 1c

i can move my 19psi actuator by hand so if you cant move a stocker then you either need to eat more weet bix or its rooted. as said put some pressure into it and see what it does

yer thats true. at double the rpm the same injector duty is going to see half the fuel injected each pulse, but theres twice as many pulses so you end up using the same amount of fuel relative to time

does anyone have any pics of exactly where to drill out the oil drains in the head? now you have me wondering if i should make them smaller than 1.5mm, are the standard 25 feed definately 3x1.5mm? because i wasnt getting much blowby at all with the 25 so i figure aslong as i keep it less than standard 25 it should be fine

ign

2mm i think. factory 25 are 1.5mm i think. i ended going with 2 ~1.6mm feeds, works out a little less than factory 25 by my calculations which should stop any blow by without starving the head

should be part of the 33 body loom plug near the ecu

miss at idle is usually the ignitor getting tired, pretty common

standard gauge isnt all that accurate but even if it is 8kg isnt that high. myne sits on 6-7 at cold idle, hits 8 (end of the gauge) with anything more than 1500rpm when stone cold, even with 5w-30

narrowband doesnt tell you afr's, ignore it sounds like afm wiring

is a very hit and miss way of tuning. you'd be much better off going to a workshop with datalogit who can tune it properly

exactly a 1:1 fuel reg gets rid of any flow difference due to pressures. inj duty is not affected by rpm directly, yes you'll usually see a higher duty at a higher rpm but thats because you need generally need more fuel at higher rpm's. if you have 444cc injectors at 50% your using 222cc of fuel per minute per injector ragardless of whether its at 2000rpm or 6000rpm. obviously its never going to be exact but it gives you a good idea of how much fuel your using

yer was thinking about that when i noticed the holes are drilled and tapped right past the first passage into the divider. will see how it goes