JonnoHR31

rev machine....

depends how shit your tyres are. standard turbo will be like tryna suck a medicine ball through a twisty straw tho

you'll have to give me time to unbolt the turbo before i race a sv6, dont want it to be too 1 sided....

na theres 50 billion identical ones of them around, impossible to tell who it is. meant if i see your gtr the best is when your in a really slow car and you try race faster cars, people usually get really serious about it, its hilarious

i'll be sure to leave you behind if i see you

radiator isnt your problem. you either have air in the system or you have no/minimal coolant flow which could be the thermostat or the water pump. air is the most likely culprit, hence why i said to bleed the system again.

park the car with the front uphill, or jack the front up, smash a cut off coke bottle in the top of the radiator and fill it up with the engine running. also crack the bleed bolt too to make sure coolant comes out. if it still does it after that check your thermostat

you can drive around here for upto 3 months if its still registered in nsw, but after that it has to be registered here which means pits. other issue is insurance, your not covered by DPT over here if you kill/injure someone and the nsw rego people (whatever they're called) probably wont cover you as your not in their state.

in that case you'd probably have to relocate the tensioner, but it wouldnt be the same spot as the guide, you'd have to figure out exactly where it needs to go. but for a standard 30det the gates belt and stock locationed tensioners works well, just make the bottom cover on the left side clears the belt by atleast ~10mm. myne cleared on the engine stand but now rubs ever so slightly at a certain rpm and load

i used a screw driver to scratch a mark for the cas. unbolt cas, unbolt cover and you should be able to slide it up without taking the fan and shroud off. if your going to run the motor without the cover on to find your noise, make sure you use some sort of packer/washer the same thickness of the timing cover between the cas and its bracket. and for testing with the cover off the cas doesnt have to be in the perfect spot, just set it as close as you can to where it was before and it should run fine

who cares? aslong as they're not being idiots let them have a bit of fun. people take shit too seriously

no its not. not allowed to use a AS1698 helmet at the drags, has to be AS/NZS1698. f**k knows why tho. Thanks Paul, will check what it is

no, it burns cooler

they're available in T4 aswell http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?S...tegory_Code=GTH They are a little shitty quality wise but its nothing you couldnt fix up before fitting if you were keen. it'd be nice if garrett offered such a housing but for whatever reason ATP is the only one i've found who does. Before fitting one tho as a minimum you need to grind the housing where the nuts sit, otherwise they dont fit, make sure the housing bolts dont potrude into the scrolls and cut them if they do and idealy fix up the exit path and make it like the garrett housings. also make sure you have the housings rotated and all the lines properly fitted before fitting it to a low mount manifold as it borders on impossible once its on there.

a manual 31 in good condition can do 10-11L/100km of normal suburban driving. not the greatest but not that bad for a big car corrollas are probably better overall tho

you havent answered the main question. WHY? i cant think of any good reason to leave it off

whilst its possible on some cars and dynos theres no garuntee you'll make 350rwkw with a gt3076, even with a 1.06 housing. if your happy to lower your goal a touch in exchange for response a T4 twin scroll 1.06 gt3086 on a good manifold would be a nice setup. only downside is ATP are the only ones who make a such a turbine housing and whilst it does the job its far from perfect i have the same combo on a 30det in perth if you wanna see how it drives

exactly right, not your fault but you certainly gave him a reason to be pissed off. i wouldnt damage your car but i'd be pissed off too if you blocked me from undertaking a stupid right lane hog. lesson to everyone, ragardless of your views on speeding, overtaking etc if someone wants to get past you, let them past, especially if its me when i'm late for work...

do they allow the AS only helmets? dont need the AS/NZS like stupid motorplex?

it'd be my choice

whatever suits the manifold you have. or if you can choose, go t4. .82 should do 350rwkw if everything else is up to the task

go a .82 twin scroll, should spool the same if not a touch better than your current housing and make much better power/torque

had a $300 clutch (2500lb organic) made by a local mob that handled 250rwkw for a couple of years, was still fine on the street and was very nice to drive but slipped at the drags after a hard launch. now got a 3000lb ceramic from the same place for $450, will see how it goes with 300+rwkw and 30det torque definately no need for $3000 twin plates

buy a can of start ya bastard or similar

stock is .63 from memory