JonnoHR31

no a rb25 turbo wont work easily. need a custom dump as the vlt manifold mounts the turbo completely different to a 25 manifold. as said buy a basic vlt kit with manifold, turbo, oil and water lines, dump, injectors and ecu

ignore the surge tank, it should be the intake plenum that the line goes to. dont use the line going to the fuel reg tho, you dont wanna mess with fuel pressure.

grey is for the auto tranny computer and isnt connected on manuals. red one is for the ecu

exducer doesnt refer to the turbine side, its the diameter of the larger set of blades

theres nothing to tune with a standard ecu

stock reg is more reliable than 90% of aftermarket regs and there is absolutely no reason to adjust the fuel pressure away from factory with a factory ecu

coil pack looms ignitors injector looms o2 sensors afm plugs just a few off the top of my head

tried this one? i've been using the 33 manual from there and its the same one available from jpnz, but free http://www.psiparts.com.au/downloads.htm

peak power may be similar but the 25 will be much quicker on the street. imo, get yourself a 32 25de head, bolt it to a 30e block and throw on a gt30. can re use all your silvertop loom etc that way and nistune the ecu

put the standard fuel reg back on and check the timing. cas rotated clockwise is retarded from stock, so for it to still be pinging it would have to be real lean or the cas a tooth out.

can detonate the engine at 0psi or 100psi, boost is mostly irrelevant. rb20s run 10psi standard, rb25s are 7psi. and that boost and power is not going to hurt a rb20

silvia rims sit way too far in, gay offsett

not sure bout the neos but my 25 pump leaked around the slotted hole, was a PITA

ignore torque figures from a dyno, they're almost never acurate. you can roughly calculate torque from the power graph if you really want to

from the workshop manual

also the v8 supercar spec e85 is around $700 for 200L from filters elite. but its mixxed with race fuel instead of 91

e85 doesnt pass some gay volatility test. all the other states have changed the laws to allow for it but WA hasnt. also caltex has said that even if the law does change they have no plans at present to sell it here as it'd cost too much for them to transport it here if your real keen maybe write a letter to your local MP about changing the law and see what they say

if you have a hand controller go setting > boost and its the number in the middle column on whatever boost setting you have selected http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm#50

yes the tune will need tweaking. there seams to be a lot of workshops out there that dont bother setting up boost control and light load maps properly, even reputable ones. personally i'd take it back and have a talk to the tuner and ask him why its set up to come on boost so lazily, see what he says

never used the pfc boost control but if my understanding is correct then try some more duty in the settings

using your calc i make it out to be ~450nm at around 4400rpm

needs more gain/duty its not running out of puff at all, if those boost lines were all flat all 3 runs would be making peak power right where they backed off which is ~ 6800. hardly running out of puff. get it running a nice flat line at 18psi all the way to limiter and you'll notice a huge difference. the pink line doesnt reach full boost until ~4600 and gets there very lazily. should ramp up hard and hit 16-18psi at around 3600-3800 at a guess

only split pulse t4 housings i've seen are the ATP ones

return it and spend the money on a carton of piss, much better investment