JonnoHR31

thats a push type kit. 34s are pull type

your still mixxed up. when people say more timing they mean higher values in the map, which means more advanced, which means the spark will occur further before TDC. less timing means lower ign values and therefore more retarded, which is safer. its impossible to know from just the ecu maps exactly when the combustion process reaches max pressure but you dont need to know anyway. basically you want to have the highest ignition values in each cell you possibly can without causing knock or going past MBT. under light load 99% of the time you'll reach MBT before it pings, this is usually around 40-50 degrees advance between roughly 2000 and 5000rpm under very light load. under full load you'll almost always get knock before you reach MBT with 98, so for this you need to start with the timing retarded (safe) and slowly advance it, keeping a very close eye on knock levels. be warned tho, 1 wrong number here can completely destroy your motor, so you really do need to have a good understanding of what your doing before you attempt it. that fuel map does look pretty rough, there shouldnt be big steps between cells, it should be an even change from close to stoich (14.7) under light load to ~12:1 under full load. the colours in the map should flow evenly like most of your ignition map does. also you cant just log a long drive then use the average values from the wideband to tune everything as interpolation and throttle changes etc muck up some of the values. the pfc values are just rough values of what the afr should be in an ideal world, they're never perfect but most of the time they're not as far out as you say yours are. are you absolutely sure its not running too lean under full load? have you setup the afm and injectors etc correctly?

exactly where is the boost source plumbed in and how long is the hose? how much pre load is there on the actuator?

tried turning it off and running just off the actuator?

have a search on google and do a bit of reading on ignition timing. almost all values anyone ever mentions are all BTDC, if you have the ignition timing after TDC then you have issues as this is way too retarded. for example on my ignition map i've set the bottom load row to 10 BTDC for safety, meaning if i get an overboost of some sort and manage to hit higher cells than normal it'll spark at 10BTDC, which is fairly safe and isnt going to knock. in most turbo applications with pump fuel its impossible to have peak combustion pressure at TDC under full load without serious pinging. so in most cases you simply run as much timing as you can without any knock to achieve the most power possible safely. the standard power fc map is nowhere near 49 degrees under full load, any skyline would ping like crazy with that much timing under full load. maybe post a copy of your map up before you drive the car to make sure your not still mixxed up

what boost control are you using?

nope, drop it before you start it as all the oil will already be sitting at the bottom of the sump. dont bother cranking it, most of the time this isnt enought to get any oil pressure in the head, fire it up and it should build pressure within a second or so

they are TTY but at the same time the nissan service manual doesnt list them as a replace after every disassembly item. most people will reccomend changing them tho

do not start with 33 degrees of timing under full load, thats ridiculous also 22 everywhere on light load is no good, standard ecu runs up to around 50 degrees on light load. your map should be smooth with no sudden jumps between adjacent cells and should progress from moderate timing (30+) at light load to safe timing (10-15) under full load as a starting point

was gonna come but my no6 piston ring has decided it doesnt wanna go

tried full solenoid duty where its dropping boost? the highest you mentioned was 80%

ecu thinks your trying to kill baby whales and is doing its best to put you off

if you've pulled 8 degrees with no change to knock levels then its likely its not actually knocking, possible but unlikely. could be a dud sensor or something rattling in the engine bay near the sensors are you absolutely sure you pulled 8 degrees? set 1 of your monitor values to ign timing and see what it reads before and after changing the temp adjust Knock sensors usually cant pickup pre igniton afaik as its not a metallic knock as such, more an extremely fast, high pressure burn while the pistons coming up, can melt holes in shit. suppose they might pickup a knock at the end of it as the piston reaches the top if its still burning and pings as a result of the pressure, but its fairly different to your normal pinging from too much timing. its very possible for only a tiny bit of the mixture to ping for all sorts of reasons. poor atomisation, poor chamber design, uneven pressures, hot spots etc can all cause it. as i said theres no set number for whats knock and what isnt. even if you know exactly whats happening in the chamber at what pressure and burn rate etc do you call it knock instead of just a clean burn? all combustion makes noise, hence why you always have some sort of knock reading when driving, i've never seen a power fc display a max of 1 after a drive. it all comes down to whats safe and what isnt, and again theres no set number and even if there was it'd be different for every engine, ecu, knock sensor etc. you can only go off other peoples and your own experience and opinions, which as i said usually equates to somewhere between 30 and 60 being the safe limit with a power fc. personally i dont even look twice at anything under 60 on my car, but i dont need it as a reliable daily and the motor is just a slapper so i'm not as careful as others might be. each to their own

i think your a little confused. pre ignition and detonation are two different things with different causes. also theres no set number that defines knock, you can have a tiny part of the mixture knocking which generally wont do much damage or make much noise (resulting in a low knock number if everythings working properly) or you can have most of the mixture pinging which is obviously bad and would generally produce much higher knock readings. everyones opinion is different but for power fc's most people considering anything under 30-60 safe. OP, 40 isnt very high at all, like i said either pull a couple of degrees of timing or fill the tank. 90 isnt even all that bad if its at lowish rpms.

your feed pump would have to flow more than the main pump. which means you'd still need a return from the surge tank so it doesnt pressurise. apparently creates issues with pressure in the main tank too. run the rail return into the surge tank then return from surge into main tank, proven setup

why doesnt the gates belt fit?

was sorta halfway through tuning after going from .82 gt30 on stock manifolded 25 to 1.06 TS gt30 30det. boost is around 22psi

50/50 e85 without tuning will make it run lean octance booster is a good idea for a temporary fix but dont use it all the time as it kills plugs and o2 sensors etc real fast

yes sumps are interchangeable, make sure you swap the pickups aswell tho as from memory they're different. +1 for stagea engine tho, much easier

looks like its an ATP housing, still the only place that makes them afaik. i recently put one on my 3076 for my 30det. their quality leaves a bit to be desired but so far it seams to be working alright. theres a few little things you'll have to fix up before you fit it but no big deal

like i said, all the cells with 10 arent used, ever

2 degrees would be more than enough for a slightly shit batch of fuel unless you filled the tank with heptane?

either keep it off boost til you use up the fuel or fill the tank now and hopefully get a good batch

block will hold fine then at any normal boost level stock 25 pump will work fine oil squirters can be a good idea but they're not needed to keep a 30 alive and they're not worth the effort required to fit them, plenty of high hp 30s with no squirters around with no issues

yer stock map goes up to around 50 in a couple of spots, but with good fuel you can spread this out and go that high on a much larger area of the map. for example, this is one of my maps running BP98, ignore all the cells with 10, they're not used