JonnoHR31

i have a brand new set of the copper plugs you need sitting here if you need them asap gap depends on a few things, mainly boost and condition of your coilpacks. but unless you have some really good coilpacks you'll need a smaller gap than .8 for 15+psi

nvm, its a ecr33 one. my bad

i'm in perth aswell and pretty sure i've got the older type, will check tommorow.

but .7 is bigger than .6 as already said its pointless running anything bigger than a gt3076 on a standard manifold as it becomes a massive restriction above ~280rwkw

the main purpose or retunless systems is to save on plumbing. having 2 lines up to the bay kinda defeats the purpose, might aswell plumb it into the rail then and run a normal setup. and if the reg is as far up as the engine bay there will still be heat soak, but thats rather irrelevant, its the fuel pumps that put all the heat into the fuel.

its recommended you use check valves for twin pump setups that run all the time. if you want to switch 1 of them you definately need check valves, as like you said without them you'll be pumping back through the pump thats off. a switched 2nd pump is a good way to keep temps down, aslong as theres no chance of it being left off when its needed

only if you want to be at WOT for long periods of time. all you need to make sure of is that your intake pump flows enough and your surge tank is big enough to ensure you never empty it. best practical way to do it is, pull the return line off in the engine bay and feed it into a bucket or jerry can, start the car and let it idle and time how long it takes for the surge tank to empty. take off a couple of seconds and make sure your never at WOT for more than that long. if your doing circuit work it'd get more complicated as the surge tank might not fill back up all the way between squirts

it doesnt make more peak power, it makes more midrange power. that example graph is a bit extreme but you can see the top end is the same, the quickpool simply brings the gt45 on a bit earlier, giving it more midrange. paul, its almost the exact opposite of twin scroll. instead of dividing the pulses it divides the turbine housing in half, only using one scroll for all cylinders until full boost is reaches, which increases the speed of the gas before it hits the turbine

newer commodores run returnless setups i think. only problem i can see with it on a turbo setup is it'd be hard to set one up with a vac/boost line to it and without it you'd be running a constant fuel pressue, which means reduced flow under boost and possibly tuning issues i have a pierburg lift pump in my car, not sure if they're still around or what they flow but it does the job just fine, might be worth looking into

were you doing this?

normal. and dont wait for it to drop before driving, just dont thrash it until the pressure drops down a bit as that means your oil has warmed up to operating temp

probs more to do with the fact that it creates a straight path from intake tipe to plenum whilst in vacuum. if its a minor split you can get away with taping it up as that hose doesnt see boost. but if its properly broken get a new one, doesnt have to be genuine, any bit of rubber hose that size that can bend around will do.

why? before the turbo swap it was a stocker with an exhaust and a cooler. nistune would make a nice upgrade. you might find youself maxxing the standard injectors but every car is different

in theory yer, but in the real world bigger pumps seam to result in slighty richers cars for some reason. maybe not every pump and every car but i bet if you take a 100% stock 33 and run it on the dyno, then install a 044 or similar and run it again you'll notice a difference in AFR's like i said earlier, most of the difference will be from different widebands, most dyno ones are high quality items which would be spot on whereas the innovate hes using have been known to be pretty innacurate at times

in theory it would bring boost on much quicker in the same way a VATN turbo would. which would give a massive increase in midrange torque and power which is what that graphs pointing out. peak power would remain the same, if not slightly worse. in practice tho it requires a twin scroll turbo on a single scroll manifold, which isnt going to be ideal. its been covered a few times on here

main pumps are irrelevant in that regard. aslong as your return flows atleast the same as your feed from the main tank then you wont have any problems. my return is the same size as the feed and i havent had any issues with pressure

autos are quicker if the manual driver granny shifts, not double clutching like he should be....

a good way test roughly how long your setup can last at 100% inj duty is to pull the return line off in the engine bay and drop it in a bucket, start the car and let it idle and time how long it takes for the surge tank to empty. obviously this isnt going to be perfect as things are slightly different at WOT but it gives you an idea

i'm allowed to carry around a crowbar, i need it for work

on a thin metal shield that drops down behind the diff on the hr31s

check for exhaust leaks aswell if it smells like that

i have a small tranny cooler from super shit in my return line, works well. before that the pump used to start cavitating on hot days after half an hour or so of light driving, now it takes a really really hot day for it to do it.

142-152nm

yes thats a dump pipe

i wouldnt trust the innovate wideband to be that accurate. sure theres probably a small different between dyno and road but i think most of the different in your case would be from different sensors