JonnoHR31

the new nistune z32s have the re wiring done already, dont need to change anything

make sure no1 is at TDC with a screwdriver down the spark plug hole and see if it lines up with tdc mark on the balancer

D/C vs power can be influenced by heaps of things including fuel type, fuel pressure, injector condition (flow and latency), richness of the tune, ignition timing (which can be influenced by size of turbos, exhaust, intake, cams etc etc) and different dynos. 89CAL, everytime i hit full load at high rpm

apart from the 1.1mm gap they'll be fine. you'll probs have to gap them down a bit

theres already a thread on that oil test and few varied opinions on its accuracy

044 hardwired, nismo 555s and tomei reg with a tiny pressure increase for me.

depends how your reading it. if you use lambda or leave the wideband set to petrol you can run a leaner number with methanol but there will still be more fuel injected than the same afr/lambda on petrol as methanol has a very different stoich to ULP. on the other hand if you set the wideband to methanol and tune to the same afr's as you would for petrol your right, it'd be way too lean

your cars a freak tho when it comes to inj d/c. most people wont be able to do that on e85 for example, my cars probably at the other end of the scale, i have the same injectors as you and run about 90-95% at around 260-280rwkw on PULP

gcg or mtq should both be able to get you a gtx3071 with any turbine housing you want you cant use the standard dump, has to be custom

http://www.ripsracing.com/products.html

as said, plenty of wd40. also make sure you use a good ring spanner and use a hammer/gimpe on it if they're real tight

more timing isnt always better, but as a tuner you would already know that.... do you know what MBT means?

yer the c*nt changed his price after doing the work, was kinda gay

17s for brake clearance? might be able to help depending on what sorta clearance you need

change the plugs while your there aswell

not sure bout p/s lines as i dont have a 32 but just be careful and pull it out nice and slowly with 2 people if possible. also get as much angle on the motor and box as you can

so your running e85 and have troubles with it pinging before reaching MBT? if not, there wouldnt be any gain in running meth injection

yes take the box out with the motor and swap everything over while the motors out. the turbo should have a seal on the comp housing, is there a rebate for one on the backplate? if it doesnt have one, couldnt hurt to put some gasket silicone around the edge to make sure it seals like this http://lh4.ggpht.com/_zt1IrYTCrOo/THPtRFnQ...%2019.29.52.jpg

knew you'd have the answers. any idea why surge doesnt show up as excessive boost? or does it, but the gate cant react fast enough to control it?

why the hell would you run water/meth with e85?

yer they're anti surge slots. basicaly surge is when the turbo is pumping more air than the engine can swallow, this air then makes it way back through the turbo whilst its still trying to pump air fowards, can get pretty nasty. the slots basically recirculate the air around the comp wheel to stop this. surge usually occurs when you have a smallish exhaust housing on a high flowing compressor, the small housing gets the turbo spinning very fast early in the rev range and therefore it starts pumping a lot of air, the engine isnt revving high enough to be able to swallow this much air and you get surge. how this excess air doesnt create massive amounts of boost is beyond me but theres some fluid dynamics reason for it. and for the record, standard rb20/25 dump pattern is 6 bolt not 5

my standard turbo and manifold used to glow after a thrashing, pretty normal

yer but that belt also makes water move n shit, would be kinda gay running it without it

yer unplugging would be a much better idea. dunno wtf i was thinking with pulling the belt off

if its the same as the 30e ones i think i have one lying around here somewhere you can have