JonnoHR31

assuming its a power fc boost control kit? is it still turned on in the etc menu? afaik theres no limp mode in the pfc, its pretty basic. checked the solenoid works?

so last year.....

where do send my money? i want to help your good cause...

they probably had a good reason not too. maybe they wanted a seperate feed for better pressure or something. i'm sure they put a lot more thought into it than anyone here would

no. 33 gtst should be the same as 32 gtr if that helps

was this last night or this morning? i was at hillarys last night and the place was fkn packed, had to drive round for ages just to find a spot. and there were heaps of semi pissed people all walking down through the carpark.

vct is easy, no way you should lose it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/251669-rb2530-rb30det-vvt-internal-oil-control/ with this setup and 25 pump i used 2x1.6mm feeds, worked out to ~20-30% (cant remember exactly) less flow then the standard 25 setup with the vct feed. standard 25/30 comes out at around 8.3:1, compared to 9:1 for rb25, so you'll lose a little compression but this is obviously outweighed by the extra cubes. 3000rpm sounds about right tho should be able to make the same power with less boost, but how much less is anyones guess. probs still need more than 1 bar tho

not sure bout the autos but the manual boxes have opposite gears between 20/30 and 25 boxes. so make sure the gears mesh the same way before swapping speedo drives around

ls1 has been done into 31s, 32s, 33s and 34s. ls1 + to4z in a skyline should do the trick

they mean you can use either a r32 rb20 ecu or a z32 vg30 ecu with a few mods (which afaik they now do before selling). the 32 ecu doesnt control vct, so you need an external controller. z32 does control vct so no extras needed. z32 nistune is the best option for a mild r33 rb25 imo but first, buy the turbotech mbc and wind it up to 10psi, some cars will run shit, some will be fine. so try it and see, you wont hurt anything at 10psi. just be sure to keep it under 12/13psi at higher revs, you can get away with a little more in the midrange.

or its a 31, they dont work from the factory

you have a .2psi spike in the middle there, no good. seriously tho thats a nice graph if your on the cheaper side and want a decent ebc profec b II is a good ebc when set up properly

thats pretty rich for e85. you can farely safely go a bit leaner than you can with petrol (by leaner i mean higher afr number/lambda, still more physical fuel than petrol). but whats best power wise is debateable, richer can take more timing but takes longer to reach peak pressure, resulting is peak pressure at pretty much the same time as a leaner mix with less timing.

if you can turn it fairly easily by hand when the motors off then its fine. if its really stiff or locked then its fked

aslong as your afr meter is hooked up to a proper wideband and not one of those useless gauges that uses the stock o2 sensor. if your not sure about target afr's and lambda the least confusing way is to leave the wideband set to petrol and tune to petrol afr's

sounds like the 1st block listed here, doesnt have much details but says stock internals. so 1 must assume stock pistons, which would mean ~8.3:1. http://www.ripsracing.com/products.html would be 600-650hp at the flywheel

getting up there but 102 wont kill anything if your gentle. just take it easy on days like that and you shouldnt have any trouble

ring a turbo specialist and see what it'll cost. you wont be able to do it properly yourself

we have a crx here with a b16 (around 9.5:1 i think), its loving 10psi of boost and drives very nicely down low. compression is awesome

ignore the 150, ITS A GUESS, a very rough one at that. no number on his computer could give him an exact power figure. and ignore the dyno sheet above, 240rwkw from a stock turbo isnt all that realistic, and whilst it does occasionally happen its nothing to get hung up on. fix your plugs/coilpacks and do a $50 power run on a dyno anywhere just to put your mind at rest.... and heatsoak is when your intercooler (in this case, can be anything) gets heated up from the hot shit in the engine bay whilst sitting in traffic or not moving much for whatever reason. the cooler sucks up all this heat and does a lowsy job of cooling the intake air going through it until you get some speed back up and get some cool air flowing through it again.

added my 31

99% sure they're the same. think i had a xr6t gasket on my gt30

unless your doing burnouts in your driveway and instantly turning the key off its not really needed. but if you already have one installed 10-20 seconds idling after a thrash cant hurt. just dont set it to 5mins like some people....

lol thats even worse what about sPIGot

on any manual car always select a forward gear before going into reverse