JonnoHR31

afaik the blocks are the same. does it have the turbo feeds and machined spot for tensioner etc?

good luck, i spent a fair bit of time looking into it a while back and couldnt find any for less than ~$10/L here in perth, which is too expensive to use as a fuel. cheaper to buy e85 drums

yep, less timing (within reason) builds boost at lower rpm than more timing. more timing will give you boost quicker time wise and make the car quicker overall but it'll be at slightly higher rpms.

personally use bp98 after copping a few bad batches of vortex 98. but having said that i've had 1 bad batch of bp98 aswell (filled up at bp maida vale and had to pull out 5+ degrees of timing to stop it pinging, which is a shitload of timing). as said the most important thing is to find fuel which is fresh, not always easy tho.

which comes back to the possibility of a gtx3576 being a good thing if you can afford to make one.

the ecu changes timing a bit at idle to lower and raise it. 45 is pretty normal under light load. i run up to 50 degrees advance in my map, with 40+ covering almost all the top half of the map. most of the time you'll reach MBT before it knocks under light load

i think the gtx would really benefit from more boost in that example, they're compressor map does suggest the biggest difference is at high boost levels

got myne indirectly through the metric man. just look for a similar place near you, take a stock stud in and look for one 15-30mm longer

yer i was having the same problem, but i put it down to my internet as its been constantly dropping out lately. guess it wasnt that for once

set is the main boost settings. gain controls how hard it comes onto boost and how well it holds it up top. cant remember the exact names but the red screen with a set boost figure sets the warning level, this should be a bit above the max boost you want to normally run. the other screen with the % figure is the solenoid duty the controller will go to if the warning level is reached, until the boost falls back down at which stage it will resume normal operation.

you have to set the warning level higher than your target boost. if you go over that figure it warns you so you back off and sort out your overboost, hence why its a warning function

you need to lower your limiter or whatever its called (i have myne set to 5%, which is the lowest) and the other red screen needs to be set 2-3psi above your target boost. your set (the main % figure) should be set to whatever gives your a touch below your target boost and then you start adding gain until it spikes then back it off a touch. lastly set the start boost or set gain 2-3psi below your target boost. if you dont know how to do all that then take it someone who does

no, vct drains inside the head with the rest of the oil. when doing a 25/30 you just need to sort a feed for the vct, not a drain

first test would be to pull the vac line off the actuator and plug it up and see when you hit your target boost then, but make sure you back off straight away as with everything working it'll free boost.

short end goes into the head

so all the hundreds of standard cars driving around with 3-4 studs fallen out with no leaks are miracles? its a thick cast iron manifold, its not gonna bend from 1 missing stud

aslong as both the manifold and head are straight and clean then it'll be fine, and given the top row is pretty easy to get to with a standard manifold anyway it cant hurt to see how it goes.

could try kermit, he normally doesnt keep bends but he might have one left over or something

hes talking about the breather pipe on the side of the motor, its nothing to do with vct

yes 2860-5. no they're not the biggest, -10s are the biggest bolt on garretts

correct, neo's have gtr rods

well if your doing the internal vct feed from the cam buckets then you need enough oil to supply that aswell. standard 25 has 2 main 1.5mm feeds and a 1.5mm feed for the vct, so 3 x 1.5mm feeds all up. i personally used 2x1.6mm feeds with a 25 pump and vct, which works out to a little less flow than standard 25 setup, havent had any issues yet. gates 30det belt is 150T so use 2 tensioners in the standard locations down the bottom, make sure the belt doesnt get too close to itself

i only log the parameters i need for whatever i'm tuning (fuel and timing or just timing etc), that way you get more lines per second of log and more accuracy when it comes to pinpointing exactly where the knock readings are coming from in the map.

yer on my car i do, obviously wouldnt on anyone elses tho. and yes nistune allows you to use the consult port as standard

i'm not talking about the interpolate feature in fc edit, i mean the actual ecu's interpolation between cells. if your halfway between 2 cells it interpolates between the 2 to give you a figure halfway between them. does this for both fuel and timing