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JonnoHR31

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Everything posted by JonnoHR31

  1. it all depends who you get and what sort of mood their in. some will have no problems with that sort of stuff aslong as the essentials (brakes, tyres etc) are all good, others will get real anal over little shit and fail you. best thing to do is make the car as stock as you practically can, make sure it has good brakes and tyres and make sure theres no evidence of oil leaks etc anywhere
  2. it varies a lot (even with the same parts and tune). some will handle a well setup 500rwhp for years, others will break in a matter of weeks.
  3. find a local bolt/fastener specialist, take a standard stud in there and get them to find you one Xmm longer on the turbo side. make sure its high tensile and isnt gonna turn to shit with a bit of heat
  4. if the injectors are randomly hitting 100% under light load then check your afm wiring. i had a similar problem with the same setup, a dodgy afm wire was randomly earthing out and sending the pfc 5.1v when just cruising along
  5. on standard VLs the xover pipe acts as a homo intercooler, it has heatsoak fins on it and shit
  6. more boost
  7. stock thermostat is 76.5C, but thats in the bottom hose, temp sender is in the top hose at the hottest point. so when the thermostat normally opens coolant temp is over 80. having said that 60-80 is fine. hottest myne gets on days like yours is 70-72, doesnt cause any problems other than possibly keeping the oil a touch cooler and therefore thicker (negligible)
  8. reducer on the turbo will be fine. just make sure theres a bend and as much length as possible between the afm and turbo
  9. new sub forum/club - sauwa stoners
  10. best way to diagnose a slipping clutch is to get on a highway or similar, chuck it in 5th and put your foot down, peak torque(3-4000rpm will do it) in 5th is the most strain you'll ever put on the clutch, if its rooted you'll see/hear the revs climibing quicker than they should be
  11. http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=Pinouts
  12. with the motor in the car you need a small mirror to see it properly. borrow your gf's make up mirror or something similar
  13. pulled the fuel feed line off at the rail and checked for flow?
  14. did you check the cam timing after tuning it over by hand? usually it'll still start if its 1 tooth out but worth checking. has your cam still got the aligning tooth for the cas? if not make sure the cas is lined up in the correct teeth aswell as the where it was before on the cover. as for fuel, check pressure and flow if the injectors are definately firing
  15. i have a muffler on myne. found a random old hills muffler (was for an old morris i think, 1.5" or something pathetic like that) at my dads tyre store, added a few bits of random pipe i cut out of a wreck and welded them together, it ends just after where the cat normally is in the main system. its loud enough to be noticeable on boost but quiet enough to not give me the shits (i hate screamers). all in all it works very well for something that was free
  16. anyone know if they're a direct fit like the nismos are? any idea on spray pattern etc? considering swapping out my nismo 555s for some of those 1000s but dont wanna sacrifice any driveability/economy
  17. any coolant in the plenum? could be leaking internally
  18. could just make a hard pipe and either paint it black as said or put a rubber hose around it to make it look stock
  19. hes talking about bhp, not rwhp. so hes actually pretty close with that one
  20. what size inlet does the turbo have?
  21. its IRS, it has 2 CVs per side in the rear. i had myne done by a place in wangara, cant remember the exact name of it but its CV something, its located one street north of prindiville drive towards the bottom of the hill
  22. wow thats even faster than myne and i got the good stuff....
  23. http://www.deatschwerks.com/skyline/skyline-1993-98 interesting, with the dollar strong at the moment they're pretty cheap.
  24. where can you get deatschwerks from?
  25. yer the AFRs will be directly affected by the % of ethanol in the fuel, which if constantly mixxed with the same type of ulp will affect octane rating aswell (albeit not enough to be dangerous), the only way they could lower ethanol content without affecting octane rating would be to mix it with a higher octane ulp
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