JonnoHR31

that'd be even worse and its not an option with the power fc anyway. interpolation is great but the way the power fc does it sometimes is weird

i'd say the power fc is probably the easiest to learn and get running properly as you really only need to tweak the basemap a bit and setting up afm's and injectors is a piece of cake. not sure about everyone else but at first the simplicity of the power fc is great, its easy to get a hang of, but after a while i found myself getting very frustrated at how basic some parts of it are. my main gripe with it is the way it handles ignition timing and to some extent interpolation. only being able to increase or decrease timing by whole degrees can be frustrating when trying to find the limit (yes i know most people would have 2-3 degrees safety margin but not everyone wants that) and it also seams to round up when interpolating, which in certain spots is a right pain in the ass. i've also seen it favour the last cell it was in when interpolating, for example as your approaching peak torque and each cell has a fair bit less timing than the last it doesnt seam to always interpolate evenly to give a nice steady drop in timing, which can be a problem. say your half way between 1 cell which has 20 degrees of timing and another with 16, the result for that point should be 18, a lot of the time i see 19 and 20. i find myself wanting a vipec or similar more and more everytime i play with the power fc

i prefer advanced, mainly because you can log just advanced and have everything you need. if you use basic you hape to log map ref aswell. also apexi designed it for advanced to be used with their software and basic only for the hand controller, so might aswell roll with it....

as said replace everything thats broken. also check everything to do with that belt and make sure theres nothing thats gonna make it die again, such as a seized pulley.

oil feed size depends on oil pump used, use of the car and whether or not your using them to feed vct aswell. if your buying an oil pump i'd get a 25 pump, otherwise use whatever you've already got. sump doesnt have a gasket, use some high temp gasket silicone. timing belt will also determine what you have to do with tensioners. if using a 150T belt (such as the gates 30det belt) then use 2 tensioners in the standard locations (next to each other down the bottom), if using a 152T belt then you need to relocate one tensioner as per the 30det guide. also i'd steer clear of the malpassi reg, standard ones are much better....

bypass the solenoid and run lines directly to the actuators and see what boost you get. other way to test is to use a compressor/bike pump and gauge to see what pressure they open at.

whatever the actuators you order are rated to

nismos have the best spray pattern of any of the drop in injectors

its more a breather than a drain. the drains go down through the block

boost controller

yes the standard knock sensors and pfc arent perfect and a k-mon or similar is better but aslong as the knock sensors are working and and the pfc isnt displaying high numbers of knock then the car isnt knocking. the standard knock sensors pick up a lot of other noise and high numbers arent always knock but they will almost always pick up actual knock. the reason guilt toy was able to wind in more timing (and therefore make more power) with the k-mon is because the stock knock sensors were falsely reading high levels of knock, with the k-mon he was able to find the real safe limit. so the standard setup isnt ideal, but its fairly safe.

T that line into the turbo oil return. theres a thread on here for an internal vct feed, if you already have the tools then its free to do and doesnt take long at all, very worth it.

the number value is the max you've reached, you can reset the max by pressing the right arrow. ignore anything under 30 as its just noise not actual knock, or if it is its nothing to worry about.

if its a standard ecu its perfectly safe

even 58 isnt all that bad, needs fixing tho. 1 degree from the suspect cell should fix your troubles. as paul said, read his faq, has everything you need to know. could also find someone in your area with datalogit if you dont want to pay for dyno time btw dont keep using octane booster, once off is ok but it destroys plugs and o2 sensors really fast with continued use

make up a 4" pipe up to where you want the afm then use a 4"-3" reducer/joiner to join the afm. turbotech sell 4" joiners and 4-3" reducers. or you can use the reducer on the turbo and run a 3" pipe to the afm

auto pro in malaga sells 10mm slip on spacers

i thought they were different and the 30 one fouled on something?

less timing builds boost at lower rpms but makes the car slower overall as it takes longer to get through those revs

you can safely cut away the parts of the block that foul on the manifold

and make sure you use the 25 pickup aswell. you can just bend those scrapers down against the bottom of the sump if you cbf cutting.

nistune your standard ecu

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/251669-rb2530-rb30det-vvt-internal-oil-control/ its way too easy to not do just for the sake of laziness. peak hp doesnt change at all without vct but you lose torque below 4500 rpm, something RB's need every bit of. for 5 mins of stuffing around its definately worth it

correct. you also need to feed oil to the vct. but its all pretty easy if you follow the guides on here

yer even silvertop heads arent worth it because they dont flow but using a NICS head, might aswell buy an excel.... you can see from the pic that its a 30 block, the tensioner has been relocated above the water pump.