JonnoHR31

if its stuck open it'll take ages to get up to temp

something else is giving you troubles then, or maybe we have special 91 over here. i ran it for years with no troubles whatsoever on 3 different skylines. on 90% of stock cars 98 is a waste of money. sure its better fuel but at ~15c/L more its just not worth it. even when i first got a power fc, i got it tuned on 95 because i didnt wanna pay for 98 all the time as it was daily aswell. still made good power and had a lot more timing in it than standard ecu's

yer but during surge some of the air starts flowing backwards. from this pic it looks like the surge slots bleed air from halfway along the blade, so under normal conditions that area woulnt be under boost, it'd still be in vacuum. but in surge the backwards flowing air can go through these slots.

i think he basically means it only leaks from 1 part of the blades to another, evening out the pressure difference that is only there during surge

disco explained it very well not that long ago, but since this new forum version i can never find anything relevant with the search function, its useless. edit: found it without search http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/342457-hks2835-tune/page__st__100

its impossible to tell how much power its making on the road. so hes guessed and given you a rough number and now your complaining because its not as much as you'd hoped. from what you can tell on the road it could be making anywhere from 100rwkw to 200rwkw. same tune on another engine making 190rwkw doesnt mean much, you could use the same tune and only make 100rwkw if something else isnt the same. every car is different and every dyno is different, the only power figures you should worry about is a ROUGH idea of where you wanna be. ignore how much power it actually does make and how much other cars make, unless theres a massive difference then theres nothing to worry about. if you do want more power, best bet is to post up everything you have, how much power you want and what your willing to spend. then people can help you get an idea of what you need

what housing is it? none of the garrett ones clear. cant remember what the standard actuator bracket is like but im pretty sure you cant use it standard oil drain wont bolt up, bolt spacing is different. you need to buy a pipe/flange to suit and make up the rest of the drain out of whatever you can (stock block fitting with new high temp hose would be best).

sorry, thought it was a 33gtst for some reason, in which case they dont have anywhere near enough timing to be a problem.

including your weiner? thats gross

what about oil drain, 10mm spacer, longer studs, actuator and bracket, dump pipe, intake/cooler piping changes? then theres oil, filter, coolant etc that you'd change at the same time, it all adds up

134kw on a 30e, i'd pay to see proof of that

the 150t belt from gates is for 2 tensioners in the standard locations, down the bottom next to each other. the 152t belt needs the tensioner relocated as per the 30det guide. not sure bout the other belts

gtx3071 maybe, old 3071 might struggle. some will make it easy, others wont.

did it actually make 150rwkw on the dyno? or is that the guy who did the chip guessing? sounds like your very confused, also theres no possible way to have a mail order chip set to "190rwkw", its a guess at best as theres heaps of different factors that determine how much power an engine will make with a set tune. if it did make 150rwkw then so be it, thats not too low for the mods you have, its about right. if you want more power your gonna have to start spending more money, and if you do your research first you can spend wisely and not waste a heap of money on pointless shit. btw, regardless of how hot the cooler got on the dyno a well setup car with a decent tune wont ping.

injectors need to be side feed for rb25. 555s will be enough for 270rwkw but if you can get decent 740s for the same/similar price you might aswell get them, incase you ever go e85. you'll be sturggling to do it all properly for 2.5k

ecu's are the same when it comes to coilpacks

wire the gates shut and try again. this will tell you if its simply weak actuators or something else like cam timing

just run it on 91, unless you have an aftermarket ecu tuned for 98 it wont be a problem. with a stock ecu your better off with 91 than 98 anyway. if you use octane boost make sure you have plenty of cash for spark plugs, you'll be changing them every 2nd tank. not to mention o2 sensors and other shit like that

na theres no option in the power fc, treats them both as the same how did you wire it up?

yer somethings obviously not right, especially if it only started doing it after an ecu change. just saying its possible

atleast it made more power, better than most powerchips

a little bit of an air leak on the airbox side of the afm wont matter, aslong as no dirt/sand/babies etc get in there. the air is still metered so it wont cause any issues. unless you mean the other end (engine side) of the afm, in which case a leak is bad.

can run below thermostat temp if theres not enough heat being produced to heat the coolant in the engine enough. its rare but does happen, my car for example has a 76.5C thermostat but doesnt got over 70C in the top hose on cool nights (or even most days for that matter), and no thernostat isnt stuck, works properly

pretty sure it does work actually. afaik they're the same apart from the plug/wiring

other way round, pump loads up under WOT as said, drop the zorst at the dump and try again. also to make sure clutch is fine, load it up in 5th and watch speedo vs rpm. if it doesnt slip in 5th at peak torque then its not gonna slip anytime