JonnoHR31

they sell you whatever you ask for. if you just go in and ask for whatever gt30 they've got then you havent got much chance of getting the right one. go in and ask them to supply the exact turbo you want and they will. they even modified myne for me to make the internal gate bigger.

the 25 head needs to be modifed around the vct feed. the vct feed needs to be welded up and then the head re faced. also doesnt hurt to chuck whatever gasket your gonna use against the head and make sure the surrounding water gallery will seal properly

the max for internal gate gt30s on standard manifolds seams to be anywhere from 260-310rwkw on normal fuel. it varies a fair bit and theres no garuntee you'll see 300rwkw with that setup. the compressor side is certainly capable at higher boost levels (i suspect you'd need more than 20psi) but the exhaust side starts to get fairly restrictive at 300rwkw, mainly because of the standard manifold.

depending what size bend you can get you can either put a 4"-3" (2.5" is too small) reducer straight on the turbo and then a 3" pipe to the afm (leave it before the turbo, its not a restriction) or you can run a 4" pipe to the afm and then have a reducer joiner the afm to the pipe (this is what i've done and it works well).

MTQ are the biggest australian distributor for garrett

converting from a 25 to a 26 costs a lot more than 25 to 25/30.

light idle misfire is usually ignitor module if you have a s1 head?

today

kermit 0422 549 050

it doesnt come too close together with the 150T gates belt and the only way they could ever touch is if something let go, which usually means destruction anyway. i'm running the gates belt with 2 tensioners in the standard location without any troubles, only think that didnt fit straight away was the lower timing cover which needed to be trimmed on the top intake corner to stop the belt running, but from memory you have to trim covers with the tensioner relocated anyway.

you'll need to rewire everything between the engine loom and the body loom, such as tacho, temp gauge etc

i've seen lots of commos with 1 or 2 brake lights out but i find falcons to be the worst culprit for that, especially AU and BA, i see atleast one every couple of weeks with no brake lights at all. also see heaps of cars with bald tyres. worked at a tyre shop for a while and heaps of people (usually women) would come in to get some new tyres after getting talked into it by a friend or partner because they're driving on canvas.

yer thats right. the bend must have been restricting it enough to be a problem

the PDF only goes into detail about 152T belts which require the tensioner relocated. it mentions a different 150T belt but doesnt give much info. its been covered in this section before but the PDF is very out dated and has no info on the gates belt 150 is not wrong, theres more than 1 way of doing this gerg_r31, not sure exactly what you mean but you need to use 2 tensioners rather than 1 tensioner and 1 idler to get the cam timing spot on, unless you have adjustable gears

i've never had anyone hassle me for that....

and when it comes to size theres lots of factors including turbo size, manifold design and target boost. Kyle from 6 boost usually recommends bigger gates for his manifolds due to their design. think he usually recommends a 60mm

just leave it in 3rd like the pro's

yes

cant do video, car isnt running and has a different combo now anyway. but it definately made more than 2psi, which your trying to say is normal with a standard turbo?

unless the motors been swapped you dont have a neo

get a pipe made, make sure it has a bend in it then put the afm on the end of that (with a 4"-3" reducer) then whatever filter you want on the afm. the longer the pipe is between the afm and turbo and the better the bend the less likely you are to suffer from reversion

only for those on daylight savings. time is correct for those of us in the backwards state

call it a QLD charity cruise so you get a massive turnout (like the melbourne bushfire cruise) then just donate the money to canarvon so we get more bananas soon

yes. and VLs

they build later in 1st but unless you have some massive turbo on it they'll almost always reach 90% of target boost in 1st. my old 25 had no trouble building 20psi from a gt30 in 1st even with wheelspin. a standard turbo will easily make 10-12psi in 1st by 4000-4500rpm with properly setup boost control as nismoid said probs the boost controller. have you set it up so that it keeps the gate shut until 2-3psi below target boost? (no idea how the hdi works but it'll have some sort of adjustment)