JonnoHR31

or you can use the 30 sump if the block comes with one and you dont have a 25 one. my 25 sump wouldnt even sit in place with the scrapers, dunno how you'd manage to bolt it all up. and it fouled on the girdle, not the crank itself.

where bouts in perth are you? i'm NOR and can get it driveable for you until you sort out another tune (sounds like it has reset, as your afm and boost control settings have changed). PM me if your interested

same time some people have made over 300rwkw with 555s on e85. it seams to vary a fair bit. i'd say around 300-350rwkw realistically tho.

if you have the tuning software then plug it in and see what timing the ecu is spitting out at warm idle and adjust the cas until it matches the crank

always use the brackets and mounts to suit the vehicle, not the engine, with RBs in skylines. so use hcr32 mounts and brackets

either use the 30 bracket or cut the excess off the top lug of the 25 bracket. easy

just keep the tune conservative and it should be fine

no point running it without a cat, nothing to get blocked and overheat

quickest and easiest way to test the cat is to drop it and run the car on the dyno with just the dump/front hooked up and see what sort of difference it makes. if its 5-10kw then the exhaust isnt your problem. if it jumps 20+kw (might need retuning, less pressure means you can run more timing) then you have a restriction

hks 3037 kit /end thread

no its not 100% efficient, but it still spools quicker than having it completely open to both scrolls

~280rwkw is the limit of the standard manifold. give or take 20-30kw. standard 25 turbo is a much bigger restriction than the manifold

ecu has a tacho signal wire, tap into that. pretty sure the vct is switched via the earth and has constant power. best way to figure out rpm points, as said, is to use a dyno. but if this isnt practical for you, set it to ~1000rpm engage and ~4500rpm disengage. as for the tune, fuel should be fine but timing might need a bit of tweaking.

yer 30% more than your at atm, but its a very rough guess, it varies greatly depending on how your tuner likes to tune e85, some prefer to run it a lot leaner (relative, talking lambda values) than ulp and some run it about the same or richer. duty cycle works close enough to how much fuel is being used, if you put in 30% more fuel it'd be a tiny bit less than a 30% increase in duty cycle due to latency, but the difference is so small it doesnt matter

yes but the flash is infra red and usually invisible to the human eye, altho some people claim to have seen it

as said they all have ceramic turbine wheels, and this is what usually fails running high boost. its simply too much heat for it

no

if he agreed straight out to taking half the money and posting i'd be worried. theres no way in hell i'd post something interstate until 100% of the money had cleared. but yer give it a few days before taking action

yer a cheap thrasher is good fun but the thought of 40k on 31 makes me sick

depends, mainly on fuel used. for 98 or mixxed use go for something around 9:1. for e85 only 10:1+ standard cams are fine and arguably the best for your power goals

its a good feature. in standard form it controls the idle very well, altho pfc's dont seam to do it very well sometimes. it also allows you to enter higher values around idle in the map for better response from idle, without it affecting idle

haha. smooth..... that red coupe video has been around forever. take it from a 31 owner (no pun intended....), dont spend any money on 31s, they're just not worth it anymore.

yer always a good idea to check them but if they're alright then .8s save you the trouble of tapping the plug against something. i'm just lazy...

its not ideal but you shouldnt have any trouble running it from the plenum. i ran 2 turbotech controllers like that for years with no troubles at all as have many others.

yer you can