JonnoHR31

Y piece should be fine. would be easier to just block the centre and run it like the standard setup tho, less lines and fittings that way

fill it to the hump on the dipstick, start it and let it run for a bit, then check the level again no one can give you an amount in litres as it varies, mostly on how much oil was drained, ie is the cooler completely empty?

yer, made a slapper 30det and cranked it on the floor with no luck, then dropped it in the car and cranked it for ages (with plugs out), didnt get anything. started it up and got pressure straight away. fairly often cranking just isnt enough besides, even if you do have a serious problem, starting the car for a few seconds isnt really gonna do any more damage unless something has gotten worse since last time it ran.

the lowest part of my sump is dented in about 30-40mm on the whole bottom section, didnt even bother hitting it out when i had the sump off and motor apart, its fine. unless its blocking/breaking the pickup (you'd know by now as you'd have pressure problems) its fine

do you have an epileptic right foot or something?

either plumb plumb it in to the piping somewhere or unplug it and try get it to start in limp mode and hypergear, cranking is not always enough. i cranked my motor for about 5 mins with the plugs out and didnt get a drop of oil up to the head or any pressure whatsoever, started it up and had pressure within a second

yer but a highflow bolts straight on. off the shelf aftermarket turbos require a fair bit of modifying to fit

yer get a friend to tell you when oil comes out and turn it off straight away. aslong as you do that its fine to start it with no turbo, dont even need any coolant in there.

start it up and see if anything comes out. cranking usually isnt enough

yer 16-17 at the time i think, might have dropped back to 15 right up top due to a fairly restrictive exhaust.

here 1 of my maps, cant remember exactly what stage it was at at the time but it gives you an idea.

yer 20-25 would be very doughy off boost. i run as high as 50 degrees under light load. more timing makes a bit difference to response and economy. light load ignition tuning the same as WOT tuning, but usually with much higher timing and more often than not you reach MBT before it pings. i dont have a dyno for measuring MBT so usually just stick to a basic rule of around 40 degrees at 1200rpm slowly working up to a max (sometimes less) of 50 degrees at ~4000rpm. maybe just stick to <45 if your not too sure.

sitting shouldnt be a problem, but dont use them for more than 1 tank at a time (and only ever as an emergency thing) as it fouls plugs and o2 sensors very quickly

sounds like the first one works similar to a standard narrowband in that it slowly trims fuel to get the desired afr and then constantly adjusts to keep it there second one sounds like it reads the afr, calculates the difference from the target afr and then calaculates how much to trim from that and applies it. personally i run about 13-13.5:1 at idle to stop misifirng (weak ignitor) and aim for around 15:1 under light load cruising

ok, follow these steps 1. unbolt number 1 coilpack from its cradle but leave it plugged in to the loom 2. get an old spark plug lead and put it between the coilpack and the spark plug, you may need to shove something conductive in the end of the coilpack to bridge the gap between the spring and the lead 3. hook the timing light onto the spark plug lead 4. start the car and make sure your getting spark to cyl 1 (timing light should flash) 5. plug your consult thingy in and see what timing its displaying (in that pic its 20) 6. adjust the cas until the timing on the crank is the same as the timing displayed in consult, if its 20 then you want to line it up with the 3rd mark from the right on the balancer. turning the cas clockwise retards timing and anticlockwise advances it

also you need to turn the cas the other way. anti clockwise (left as you said) is advanced, not retarded, so it probably is running 20 degrees timing.

step 1. scroll to the top of this page step 2. focus on the first post very carefully, more precisely the very top part of it step 3. let us all know when you figure out whats going on

weird, never realised it could do that. disconnected and reconnected myne hundreds of times with the engine running whilst messing around with datalogit and never had any issues. might stop doing that.....

nissan thermostat for all RBs except 34s is 76.5C, but the thermostat is in the bottom hose (coolest point), temp sender is in the top hose, which is the hottest point of the system. i see the same temps as nismoid, high 60s to low 70s, but thats not normal, seams to be a 31 thing.

yer normally you shouldnt need to touch that table

it'll mainly affect idle. if the rest of the map is good then it should idle much better. when i went from stockers to 555s i used the settings i posted on the previous page (albeit with a pfc) and it started straight away and ran perfectly, even drove it that way for a few weeks.

have you tried adding .18ms to all the standard values in the vipec?

auto clutch nuff said

goodbye front turbine wheel....

it depends on the use of the car. for a stock 20 thats purely street driven theres no way i'd spend $80+ per oil change, complete waste. motul/sougi/royal purple etc are all great oils if your doing trackwork or have a heavily modified engine, but for a road going stocker its overkill. i used hpr15 for years in several RBs and it does the job perfectly at half the price.