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JonnoHR31

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Everything posted by JonnoHR31

  1. JonnoHR31
    oh my bad, assumed it was a typo as GT said 3.2 not 3:2
  2. JonnoHR31
    try turbotech and mtq
  3. JonnoHR31
    no difference, the tomei is pretty much the same as a standard plug (same as rb30e btw) but around 5 times the price
  4. JonnoHR31
    just to be clear, you are joking right? 33 gtst is definately 4.11 for manuals, 4.375 is the 32 gtst manual ratio, same as 20det hr31s
  5. JonnoHR31
    at a rough guess i'd say it'd lean out your afr's by .6-.8 afr, so if the car is already tuned on the edge i wouldnt reccomend it, on a standard ecu it'd be fine.
  6. JonnoHR31
    33 gtst are 4.11, 32 gtst are 4.375
  7. JonnoHR31
    is the radiator and cap holding pressure?
  8. JonnoHR31
    if not, i can lend you one
  9. JonnoHR31
    sounds more like a hydraulic issue. before going to the effort of removing the box check all the lines etc for leaks and bleed it all. also, get someone to push the pedal and hold it down whilst you watch the slave cylinder/fork for any movement (a slow leak will see the clutch slowly release without moving the pedal).
  10. JonnoHR31
    any 18x1.5 bolt, its rare in automotive but fairly common in construction and steel work. i think veneables (sp?) in wangara has some.
  11. JonnoHR31
    300rwhp would be pushing it for injectors and afm aswell
  12. JonnoHR31
    it'll help but its not ideal and you certainly wont be able to get the most out of the highflow. a full aftermarket computer and possibly z32 afm and injectors, depending on power goals and the ecu, is the best solution.
  13. JonnoHR31
    if its standard ecu your maxxing the afm and its cutting out to protect the motor. keep the boost under 10psi until you can get an aftermarket ecu
  14. JonnoHR31
    got myne off atm, if i remember i'll take a pic while im putting it back together. also, you'll actually bend the pickup tube before blocking it as it has a fairly solid gauze filter on the bottom. the rb30 that i just pulled apart was dented ~40mm and the sump was just touching the bottom of the filter.
  15. JonnoHR31
    pretty sure they do easiest way for turbo lines is to just take the turbo and the block fittings into enzed and tell them what you want, they'll make them on the spot and you wont have to pay extra for having them come to you.
  16. JonnoHR31
    unless the dent is massive it'll be fine. i have 3 sumps here all with dents ranging from 30mm to 50+mm and all have worked fine
  17. JonnoHR31
    iirc it has an external feed set up. theres no way of doing it without blocking the original feed, as it overlaps with a water gallery on the 30 block. the other way thats on here is to feed vct oil from the cam buckets by drilling out a brass fitting in the head
  18. JonnoHR31
    if all else fails i have datalogit you can borrow for a hefty deposit. got a rb25 hand controller but not sure if they're compatible
  19. JonnoHR31
    if you set everything else at its minimum then set the start boost to ~16psi it would do this.
  20. JonnoHR31
    how does he explain all the people successfully running reducers with 4" turbos? magic?
  21. JonnoHR31
    what are the settings in the profec set to?
  22. JonnoHR31
    yer just run a reducer. aslong as you have a bend and decent bit of pipe between the turbo and afm it'll be fine
  23. JonnoHR31

    Timing

    JonnoHR31 replied to luvpsi's topic in Western Australia

    depends on their condition. i've re used myne twice now, but i know for a fact they're still less than 20k kms old as for the cas, if you mark it properly (dont use a fat texta) and align it perfectly when you bolt it back up it'll be so close it wont matter. i usually scratch marks into it with a very small flathead screwdriver or similar
  24. JonnoHR31

    Timing

    JonnoHR31 replied to luvpsi's topic in Western Australia

    just make sure you mark the cas in a few spots before you remove it. then at the end bolt it back up in the same spot
  25. JonnoHR31
    yer my bad, other way
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