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JonnoHR31

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Everything posted by JonnoHR31

  1. JonnoHR31
    err no. they ran a 7 with a standard (albeit modified) crank and standard non filled block. rods, pistons, rings, bearings, pins etc were all aftermarket
  2. JonnoHR31
    one example doesnt set the standard. ive had one tank of bp ultimate that needed 8 degrees of timing pulled out under load to stop it pinging its nut off, fuel was obviously stale and shit. but in general bp ultimate is better than the other 98s in perth
  3. JonnoHR31
    the less you rev it the longer it'll last in general but 7000rpm seams to be fine for most stocker bottom ends
  4. JonnoHR31
    yes, they're all the same
  5. JonnoHR31
    depends where you are. over here (WA) BP ultimate is the best pump fuel we get, but its by far the most expensive even though BP own the only refinery here....
  6. JonnoHR31
    aslong as you keep the boost low it should be fine
  7. JonnoHR31
    if both are in the same condition, yes. just keep the 30 to ~7000rpm and it should live a happy life
  8. JonnoHR31
    sorry misread, even so the 25 and 30 are both fine up to 280-300rwkw, the 30 just does the same thing at less revs
  9. JonnoHR31
    spotted dirty 2 earlier today around carine/warwick somewhere, cant remember exactly
  10. JonnoHR31
    the 25 isnt stronger at all, they're just generally not stressed as much as 26s. you could use a awd 25 block but i dont really see any point, if your gonna go to all the effort you might aswell just build a 30
  11. JonnoHR31
    its a hose barb fitting to suit the standard water hose at the back of the plenum.
  12. JonnoHR31
    just set the motor at TDC before pulling it apart and take the belt off last, unless you go cranking it over your not gonna hurt the valves
  13. JonnoHR31
    by my rough calculations a single 3.5" will flow around 25% more than twin 2.25"
  14. JonnoHR31
    if you can find a bolt the right size, cut the threaded part off and belt the machined section in with some grease in there. i've had one before that even that didnt work so ended up welding a chain to it and ripping it out
  15. JonnoHR31
    iirc standard 25 setup (r33 25 anyway) has a single boost line from the elbow going into the solenoid, then one line to the actuator and the bleed line back to the intake, no need for restrictors anywhere
  16. JonnoHR31
    cam gear should come off once you undo the bolt, it just needs some convincing. but no it doesnt have to come off to get the head off unless you wanna leave it attached to the belt on the right tooth
  17. JonnoHR31
    this. [email protected] iirc
  18. JonnoHR31
    what engine? 25 shouldnt have a T piece and restrictor at all. 26 should have the restrictor between the T piece and the bov return, not sure about before or after solenoid though.
  19. JonnoHR31
    lol you sure? 20s dont make much torque
  20. JonnoHR31
    this, cuts all fuel on all normal pfc's, not sure if it cuts ignition on pros but i doubt it
  21. JonnoHR31
    so you want more response and your hks manifold fouls with the 25? sounds like 2 perfect excuses to go dirty 30 to me
  22. JonnoHR31
    yer just tight, dont over do it as you'll start f**king threads
  23. JonnoHR31
    i've done it heaps of times, aslong as your not tryna make huge changes while your driving its fine. just use the logs after the drive to make adjustments. best thing to teach the mrs is to let you know is theres anything out of the ordinary (too lean, knock etc).
  24. JonnoHR31
    welcome to sau..... are you running a boost controller? if so what sort? if you can get hold of a bike pump or even a compressor at really low pressure try feeding some pressure into the gate and see what it does, preferably with a gauge in the line to see what boost it opens at etc.
  25. JonnoHR31
    head gasket is most likely, followed by busted oil cooler (if standard) then cracked head/block/intake
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