JonnoHR31

lots more negatives than positives. as said above wear, clearance and distribution would all be much worse off than a conventional setup. not to mention the impossible task of coming up with a method that doesnt put excessive sideways pressure on the valve and therefore seals.

yep scotchbrite or extremely fine sandpaper (1500+ grit), go over it real gently.

power fc rpm is more accurate, factory tachos are never accurate, especially at high rpm. the rpm settings in the power are supposed to be the target idle figures, but it doesnt do a very good job of it. your correct in that you have to adjust the idle screw to set your base, then the pfc adjusts the iac to raise and lower the idle. air temp correction usually pulls timing, which would lower the idle, not raise it. regardless when idling the ecu goes into closed loop and im pretty sure intake temp is mostly ignored. the fuel cut setting is the lowest rpm the pfc will fuel cut down to. it will only cut down to this rpm under very slow decceleration, such as coasting in 5th, if the revs are dropping faster it'll cut back it at a higher rpm to catch it in time. ideally you want this figure as low as you can without it causing any issues, such as stalling or jolting at low rpm.

whats the fuel cut value set at at the moment?

what plugs and what gap?

r33 gtr

PM me in a couple of weeks. cant commit to anything as work changes every week

at the same time though every engines different, aswell as every dyno. sure something might not be up to scratch but its not always a given. for example i maxxed (properly maxxed, 100% on cold mornings) standard 25 injectors at 185rwkw with adequate fuel pressure. combination of an engine that never made as much power as others, a slightly lower reading dyno and a slightly rich tune. on the same low powered engine and same dyno i came close to maxxing nismo 555s at 250rwkw. but yer, flow test the pump first

you need to set the global adjustments back to 100% and adjust the 32 point table at the bottom. i'd set it up under airflow 5. you can find the figures for a single q45 (vh41 in fc edit) in the sample rb25det map that comes with fc edit. not sure if the 26 pfc needs the singular airflow figures or multiplied figures to allow for 2 afms though.

nope. i posted some pics of myne when i got it. the casting inside the housing between the 2 scrolls is pretty rough too

the solenoid that is left open under ~4500rpm then pulsed above that to raise boost by 2psi

my atp housing was exactly the same, forgot to mention it earlier. you just have to grind the corners a bit, theres plenty of meat in the wall there. iirc though you'll have to use nuts with a 14mm head, 17 wont fit.

the cranks are nitrided from the factory. if you grind them you lose the layer of hardening on the outisde. sure it might work but it'll never be any where near as good as standard.

only way to be sure is to hook it up to a laptop and look at a live ecu timing readout whilst setting the ca edit: or you could use a timing light before you do the belt and set it to the same after doing it

yes you would, the 26 crank has a longer stroke than the 25, hence simply having a 26 crank in a 25 block with 25 everything else doesnt work. not 100% sure but from what i've seen on here over the years the rods are all the same length (all rb25 and 26s), with the neo getting the stronger (but not longer) 26 rods. the neo has a smaller chamber with a different piston design to allow for it, which was probably a better squish design, hence why getting aftermarket neo pistons in the right compression ratio isnt always easy.

best way to use a timing light on a twin cam RB is to unbolt no1 coilpack from the cradle and put a plug lead (if you have one laying around) between it and the plug then hook the timing light onto that. with a stock ecu at warm idle it should give you 15 degrees btdc, which is the middle mark of the 7 on the balancer.

o2 sensors dont affect startup in any way whatsoever

white 34 v spec with L plates parked in the city today

the kick at 5500 is just the standard map in the ecu, at any airflow higher than stock its rich and retarded everywhere on boost but especially around the midrange, sometimes the changes in individual cells are so big its like flicking a switch as you described. vct is on/off as said. neo just has it activated over a slightly different rev range from memory. neo does use gtr rods but its nothing to do with the chamber size, they're the same length as 33 rb25 rods. the smaller chamber is allowed for in the pistons.

this. i usually mark the cas and timing cover with a small flathead screwdriver. its not perfect but more than good enough. supershit are handy for some things haha

how much can you do yourself? i could lend a hand but am pretty busy at the moment so not sure if i could do the entire job. if you can pull all the ancillary belts off, covers off, radiator out etc then i can probably help you with the rest.

current 1.06 housing is on a 3l yer. was running a garrett .82 IW housing when i had a 25 from memory (which is very blurred by lots of alcohol since the last time i drove it) it hit 1 bar of boost around 3400-3600 under load (4th gear), but thats with a lot more ignition timing than most people run, which brings boost on sooner time wise but later rpm wise. never had it on the dyno with that setup, do my own tuning so was only gonna chuck it on a dyno once everything was sorted, which hasnt happened yet. imo 1.06 twin scroll is perfect for a 3L, the internal gate .82 was a pretty bad experience for me, all the lag of a gt30 without the power of one due to the restrictive exhaust side.

for those that dont have facebook

cant really give you a proper answer as i changed housings at the same time as going from 25 to 30det and only got about 300km driving out of it before the motor had some problems which put the car in my garage, where it still sits to this day....

relative power = torque x rpm basically if you have a perfectly flat torque curve from 0 rpm to redline (never happens, i know, just an example) the power will double when you double the rpm. so if your making 100kw at 2000rpm, you'll be making 200kw at 4000rpm, 300kw at 6000rpm and 400kw at 8000rpm etc. torque is the force that is exerted by each combustion cycle, power is the overall force produced by the engine (as revs increase each combustion might be less powerful on its own but its happening faster, therefore more combustion cycles in a set period of time).