JonnoHR31

because it means you can run a cam thats good in the top end then use the vct to beef up the midrange aswell. without vct you have to run the same cam timing all the time so the grind has to be a compromise between top end power and midrange torque.

i wouldnt bother with water/meth if your running e85 as 99% of the time you reach MBT before any knock with e85. you might get some small gains from reduced temp but its nothing that couldnt be gained by simply running more boost with e85

and theres absolutely no way of making it the same between different types of ecu either. it'd be guesswork at best

neo has smaller combustion chambers than normal 25s and 26s, so compression will be higher than 9:1 with a neo head.

an extra 20-30rwkw isnt gonna hurt the motor anywhere near as much as the extra heat and higher probability of knock (due to shit batches) on straight ULP. i say go for it

a little OT but do you know if the self learn data is saved and loaded with tune files or is it completely seperate and unchanged until a data init?

yep just unplug the solenoid and/or turn it off in the ecu. the oil feed also lubricates the front cam journal so leave that as is

time to invest: i've never once had a cooler pipe blow off in 4 years, last 2 years at 20+psi. best clamps ever, apart from those fancy wiggins ones....

everyone has different ideas on which nipples should go where. personally i have the top to return, 2nd is return from the rail, 3rd is feed from tank and bottom is obviously always gonna be the feed for the main pump. main reason i set it up like that was to try and keep the fuel in the surge tank as cool as possible as i was having issues with the pump cavitating on hot days.

you dont NEED to, but it'll be stronger with one. to fit a crank collar you need to remove the crank and get it machined to suit the collar, then fitted and grub screwed. or you can get the crank welded then machined with a wide drive. if your motors already assembled and your not planning on bashing limiter constantly at crazy revs i wouldnt bother.

post a copy of your tune file up here (attach it to your post) and i'll have a look for you. also need the injector latency figures

if everything else is still standard (bottom end, head bolts etc) then i'd just stick with a nissan gasket. 30e gasket is around $95 from nissan

if by some miracle i get my car running properly this weekend your welcome to test it on myne.

they're not identical but they both have the same pattern (all the bolt holes, galleries etc all line up). 30 gasket is cheaper than 26 from nissan

a vg30 sensor in a 65mm housing wouldnt be close enough to the same. 65mm flows around 2/3 of what a 80mm pipe would. i think you'll find the nismo ones are calibrated to roughly match the z32 in overall airflow vs voltage

the vct oil feed overlaps with a water gallery on the 30 block which is why you need to get the head welded when doing the conversion. so once you weld it both the block and the head have the same pattern as non vct RBs, so you have to use a gasket to suit.

find a copy of the workshop manual if you wanna do the timing belt, has everything you need to know. otherwise just get someone who knows how to do it to help you

25 studs. 26 or 30 gasket, 25 wont work.

please explain how the engines ever gonna be in better condition to handle a thrashing than a few minutes after the rings have finished bedding in? 1000km run ins are useless as for the head, it depends how badly it was warped but normally its not enough to affect compression by any signifigant amount. i've had my head faced 3 times now (its never been cooked badly though) and i'd be lucky to have gained 0.1 compression.

skyline = 6 cyl. commonly used vipec v44 = 4 drivers.....

this is such a stupid idea. for less money you could have bought an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, set the pressure to 10psi and be making millions in profit from un used fuel........

would depend on what the 6boost is made out of?

just tap the restrictors into the block and push the old ones down, no need to drill them out or anything. you can use either the gates 30det 150t belt or the 152t dayco. if you use the 150t and your head and block havent been machined down majorly you can use the 2 factory tensioner locations at the bottom of the block. if you use the 152t belt you must relocate the tensioner as per the guide. i drilled the brass plug out to 1.5mm as thats what the standard 25 vct feed is. 25 pump will go straight onto the 30 crank, however you'll only have a narrow drive so dont go bashing limiter too much.

andy knows all this stuff, if hes doing all the work he should have tested that stuff already. but stranger things have happened at hyperdrive....

internal or external gate? few simple tests to be done first. exactly what does it do with no boost controller (just running off gate/actuator pressure)? next try a run with the signal line pulled off the gate and see what it does, stop if it goes above ~15psi this will tell you if its your boost controller or the gate