JonnoHR31

yer you want the ecu readout to match the actual timing on the balancer

used a profec plumbed into the top port and constant boost in the side port, also set the start boost to 2-3psi below target, so until it hit ~20psi it effectively had 0 pressure on the diaphram.

with a decent controller you could run 21psi with a 7psi spring. i have the same 7psi 38mm hks gate and used to hold 23psi easily with an ebc

thats anti clockwise from centre, so assuming everything else is set right that would usually mean advanced timing. get a timing light on it

the knock sensor is just a microphone, it sends everything it hears to the ecu and the ecu simply ignores everything except a small frequency range in which knock usually lies. it then spits out a number based on how strong it was. this is why you can get false knock and also why its not overly accurate on some modified engines, as the sound/vibration knock makes changes. those little jitters are just normal engine noise, ignore them. the one off knock you saw is almost certainly a false knock from hitting limiter, happens a fair bit.

that link states its an aftermarket replacement and to check his other listings for genuine stuff so theres nothing dodgy going on there. alot of the older fake z32s worked fine in every way, they just maxxed out at much lower power levels than genuine ones. if you end up getting one a cheap solution for the plug is to get a rb30 afm plug as they're the same.

yer cool. i said if the timing wasnt right and it was maxxed out for adjustment then either the half moon is gone or the cam timings out. if the timings correct then leave it and turn the boost down

this, although its more like 300rwhp (varies from car to car obviously) than 300bhp

do not set it back to the middle and leave it, that'll be worse. turning the cas clockwise retards the timing, anti clockwise advances it. get a timing light and check what the timings like. if its too far advanced and the cas is turned all the way clockwise then pull it out and check if the half moon locator is still on the cam. if it is your cam timing is out

depends where your feeding it from? external or internal?

depends what you're doing with vct?

welcome to perth.... make sure you fill out a change of engine number form asap. swapping a r33 25det for another r33 25det wont be an issue

if it only ever happens when you hit limiter then its almost certainly a false reading. to be sure you could pull a bunch of timing out of the cell after limiter to make sure its not pinging.

you'll need to fill out a change of engine number form. assuming you replaced it with the same type of engine it wont be a problem

do not get rising rate, you want a normal 1:1 reg

could also try a solid bar and a hammer if theres enough room to swing. decent rattle gun will do it back up more than tight enough most of the time

Anyone? If i keep the motor turning over with some decent revs can i expect the lifters to sort themselves out with some movement?

yep. i'd spend it on other goodies....

tried a solid ratchet bar and mass leverage? or is it auto? i have a 18v makita one but i doubt it'd be any better than the hitachi

sounds easy enough whys that? blue hose not hold up?

the breather line that comes off the exhaust side of the head at the front. the blue hose in kiwi's pic above.

i have a full set of stocker 16s here but the tread on them probably wouldnt get past the pits. could arrange something though as a last resort

not gonna happen, hence why i suggest stock bits. .82 gt30 housing isnt gonna flow anywhere near the limits of a standard 26 head

the factory vct cam gear is sort of adjustable anyway. if your dead set on adjustable gears just get the exhaust side

you could buy an apexi patch loom and hack that up instead of the new main loom