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JonnoHR31

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Everything posted by JonnoHR31

  1. yer i did exactly the same thing to my standard actuator years ago. worked well until i got a proper boost controller
  2. unless the part numbers been altered/covered up thats not a 910. no idea what it is though sorry knock readings on startup are almost certainly not genuine knock, usually something rattling during startup due to the motor moving around a bit. best thing to do with your current pump is to pull it out and check for blockages/loose wiring etc before flow testing it in a bucket or similar.
  3. with a 30det it should clear the engine mount but you might need to trim a little off.
  4. from memory rwd pickup point is machined there, just needs to be drilled out
  5. let us know how you go with fitment on a 6boost manifold. i have the same housing but to suit a gt30 on a hks cast manifold and fitment is mission impossible in every regard. for example the edge of the t4 flange sits so close to the comp housing that i've had to leave one of the comp housing bolts out as it fouls. have fun with the lines....
  6. you can hook it onto the wire going into the coilpack, but with some timing lights doing this makes it read double for some reason. most reliable method is to unbolt the 1st coilpack from the cradle and put a lead between it and the spark plug then hook the light onto that.
  7. other possibility is the motor moving during cranking shaking it loose
  8. trace the wires back until you find power
  9. have to sift through all the vegetarian pizzas and jap hookers before you get to your boxes.....
  10. nissan? you can get away without it if its just 1. just tighten the bolt up until its about where it'd be with a spacer
  11. if you have the space use crappy wheels and tyres under the chassis rails (or wheels if they're staying on) to hold the car up, much safer than axle stands and cheaper too.
  12. tip of the cam has a half moon locator which often breaks off. so if its still there it can only go in one position, if its broken you need to line it up in the correct position before inserting it.
  13. new bcpr6es plugs, if it still does it gap them down to .6-.7
  14. there was another one almost exactly like myne getting around. white coupe with a black bonnet
  15. in what? my skylines been off the road for over 6 months now
  16. it tells me you disconnected something the ecu actually needs, like the cas. as nismoid said the o2 sensor is not needed for the car to run and drive. its a fuel saving device and it only used when cruising along at a constant throttle
  17. you know theres ways of finding people on the internet and then stalking them until they agree on going out with you? it takes a few practice tries before you can master it though
  18. Thanks for that, will give them a call. Pretty sure i asked chuckie in the past and he mentioned a CAT place in midland, but i couldnt find it or any other info on it.
  19. Anyone know anywhere in perth that does oil anylisis? Long story short, had some debris go through my motor and get mashed between the piston and head and want to see if theres any big end/main bearing material in the oil before i put the head back on.
  20. how different is the oil line? is it still gonna sit within the feed hole from the head, as in its not so different that the lifter groove will sit miles above or below the feed hole and therefore receive no/little pressure?
  21. yer boundary gasses would make the single 3.5" a better flowing option hence why i originally said roughly 25% as i have no idea how to figure it out exactly
  22. shit tank was from maida vale which is now closed anyway. usually fill up at koondoola or main st if its late at night
  23. solution: buy a 31, no one wants them
  24. the vct feed and neighbouring water gallery need to be welded in the head to suit the 30 block. 25 head bolts are fine for a mild motor crank collar isnt needed but its a good idea
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