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JonnoHR31

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Everything posted by JonnoHR31

  1. also might pay to mark the shaft of the cas before spinning it if your unsure how to align it later
  2. ok. pull no1 coilpack out of the cradle, put the spark plug in the bottom of it and make sure its loom is plugged in. earth the threaded section of the spark plug somehow (i rest it against a screwdriver thats sitting firmly against a clean part of the head). pull the cas out, just undo the 3 bolts and carefully remove it, leave it plugged in. turn the ignition on and slowly turn the cas counterclockwise (looking at it from the shaft side), check for spark and listen for the injectors ticking. if you get either your cas is working fine, assuming of course the drive teeth are fine.
  3. iirc coilpacks should have constant 12v with ignition on. holding it against a clean part of the head? i usually put a long screwdriver in the valley and sit the plug against the shaft.
  4. ^it doesnt start at all now so cant do that. have you got a multimeter? if so check for power at the coilpacks with the ignition on. also, how exactly were you checking spark? did you earth the spark plug properly?
  5. Just pulled the cam covers off and checked this. Could fit a .3mm feeler gauge between most of the lobes and the lifter with a small amount of force. However a few here and there and all 4 on cylinder 2 were hard up to the lobe and didnt have any movement in them at all which makes me think they may still be pumped up with too much oil and holding the valve(s) open slightly. So is there anyway to clear this up with lots of oil flow or do they need to be removed and pulled apart? I know the lifters have a 1 way valve on the oil feed to help keep some pressure in them for startup but i thought the exit oil path was clear (apart from the cam lobe obviously) and they'd slowly bleed down with the valve spring pressure on them? Checked the cams too, they're all good and getting plenty of oil.
  6. where are you gonna run the oil breather pipe to? might need to get a T piece for your turbo oil return
  7. valves were all seating perfectly when the head was off. will pull the cam covers off again and check for any free play but there was none before. yer the no starting has me f**ked, cam and ignition timing arent perfect at the moment but more than close enough to start
  8. to see what?
  9. very tempting....
  10. the hose coming out of the fuel filter is the feed from the pump. the hose coming off the fuel reg is the return, crimp it slightly anywhere after the reg to up the pressure.
  11. Ok, so here the story. Last year i built a slapper 25/30det which consisted of a bog stock 150k 30e bottom end and ~120k s1 25 head. All went together well and got it running without any major problems. A couple of months later (only 300-400kms, doesnt get driven much) i gave it some stick in 3rd one day and it pinged 3-4 times around peak torque. Later that day driving home (a good 60kms after the pinging) it started running like shit and just before i got home it got to the point where it needed full throttle just to maintain 30km/h. So i parked it up and there it sat for a few months (had bigger issues to deal with). I later discovered the BOV return hose had popped off the intake pipe and therefore it was sucking in a bit of unmetered air and running slightly lean. This, combined with on the edge timing, caused it to ping. So it sat for a while. I finally got around to looking at it, started it up and it ran perfectly fine, took it for a drive and the instant it hit 0 boost (ie no vacuum) it started running shit again and needed full throttle just to idle, kept it going for a while and it slowly came good again to the point it was idling perfectly until it saw 0 boost, then the same thing again. Next time i started it up a few weeks later it did the same thing then after a while of idling started making bad knocking noises. So out the motor came and off to a workshop it went, where it sat for another 3 months while they screwed me around. Ended up cracking the shits and picking it up after not hearing from them. They had disassembled it but not done anything else i asked. Anyway it had 3 or 4 marked big ends and the crank had slight marks on it, none were completely spun though. No 2 big end had a groove through the centre of it the whole way around which looked like debris damage but the rest just looked like they'd rubbed the crank. 1 main bearing was slightly marked aswell. I also discovered some pitting in the top of the pistons and on the face of the head, which i assumed was detonation damage. I then picked up a complete 30e and stripped it down for the bottom end. Put new standard size rings (hastings) and big end bearings (acl race) in it with a mate whos built stocker motors before. Shouldnt have bothered in the end as the rings and bearings that came out were still like new. The whole bottom end was immaculate despite the head being completely full of oil grime. Assembled it all and dropped the motor in, started it up and after running for 30 seconds or so it made the same knocking noise as before. Common sense said it had to be head related as the bottom end had been completely swapped and a big end wouldnt make the car run that shit. So i bought another head complete with valves, lifters and cams etc, swapped the cams and lifters over into the head on the motor and tried again, same result. Pulled the head off and the pistons and head had the same pitting as the last motor, which im pretty sure is debris damage from a cooler pipe with some slag falling off a weld. Cleaned up the pistons, had the head faced again and all the valves and springs checked, all were as good as new apparently. Put the head back on and decided to clean all the lifters before putting them in, so i disassembled them and washed them in some petrol, thoroughly cleaned and dried them then half filled each section with fresh oil before putting them back together and back in the head. They were pumped up a little from the oil in them but i figured they'd bleed down once the cams were bolted in and they had spring pressure on them. It came time to start it and it wont start, coughed a couple of times once i sorted out the ignition timing and injector opening time (changed injectors at same time as build) but refused to start. Did a compression test today and cylinder 2 has absolutely 0 compression. So basically would this be from a pumped up lifter? Surely even if a ring was completely f**ked it would make a tiny bit of compression? If it is a lifter will extended turning over at decent rpm clear it up? Wanna try a few things and figure out whats actually wrong before i pull the motor out again. Any ideas?
  12. na that'll be fine. aslong as the bottom is feeding the main pump, which it is, it'll work fine. the other 3 will work in any combo, its just slightly better for cooling to set it up the way i said.
  13. yes, hook up the overflow on the surge tank (highest port) to that port circled in red. hose that was on there goes to the 2nd or 3rd fitting on the surge tank. any other lines such as the breather, leave as per factory. those 2 hoses on that lid are the only 2 on or in the tank that need to be changed.
  14. using tomei here, works as it should
  15. no, max injector opening time is at max torque. max IDC is at max power, assuming of course that AFR's and timing are normal.
  16. how much did you take off the head to gain that much compression?
  17. i'll help you with your 30det stuff if you give me some free bottles
  18. no, you just need 2 tensioners. aslong as you havent had the head or block machined heaps of times or had a lot taken off you'll be able to get the cam timing spot on by adjusting the tensioners
  19. yer trade helps. last time i got quoted $125 for rb26 and $162.90 for rb25
  20. my old motor wouldnt make pressure cranking, even with a used oil pump full of oil and heaps of priming. even after 5 mins of cranking there was nothing, started it up and had pressure within 2 seconds. sometimes cranking just isnt enough, aslong as everything was assembled with lube and oil in all the right places it can run for a few seconds without pressure without doing any damage.
  21. late s2 r33s came with the plastic cas. yours will be non neo
  22. water absorbs more heat but methanol increases overall octane by a fair bit. so with straight water you have max cooling but no octane boost, with straight methanol you have a big octane boost with a bit of cooling and a few hazards. 50/50 gives the best of both and is inert, so no danger at all.
  23. thats what i thought. thanks
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