JonnoHR31

z32 is less accurate than a rb25 afm under light loads but its still more than accurate enough to have the car driving like standard. if your keeping the standard turbo you've wasted your money on the afm, go back to standard and sell it. if you plan on upgrading later then keep it and ask your tuner to sort out the problems your having.

oil pressure sender. thats not a pic of your actual motor though is it? because thats not a RB

you can eliminate those by adjusting the max and min values it displays, it still eliminates them from the average. or again you could do it with the graph function, or even looks through the raw log files. theres several ways to do it without being affected by fuel cut and other factors. also, i've found that apart from the first split second fuel cut almost always ends up in P1 or P2, as your almost never cruising in those cells i just left them standard

the difference in max temps would be at different positions, some quote max EGTs at the sensor, others quote max temp of the external sensor body etc. the sensor uses a 18x1.5 thread, you can get bungs in mild or stainless pretty cheap off the net if you need them datalogit can do more than min, max and average. if you know what your doing you can get the exact afr at any given time, load, rpm etc in several different ways. the graph function is actually very handy for knock as you can see exactly where on the map the ecu was reading when it knocked, i dont mean which cell, i mean exactly how far between 4 cells and what the timing was at the time. the cell the knock value pops up in isnt always the culprit due to interpolation, same goes for fuel.

even BP have their inferior moments though, at the end of the day its the risk you take with putting pump fuel in a modified car

yep. all 30e afm plugs are the same

make a for sale thread

cant remember the figures but the lc-1 manual has some stuff in it about lag times and what it should be set to for certain distances from the head as the innovate software has built in correction for this which is adjustable.

clean all the bolts and caps (until you could eat off them) and then see how they go together with some fresh oil on the bolts the reason for the bolt order is so you dont snap the cam, so aslong as you havent damaged that at all or had it on any crazy angle the caps and bolts should be fine.

sounds like you have the solenoid lines wrong. run a line from the nipple on the cooler piping (after turbo) to the com port of the solenoid. then run a line from NO to the wastegate actuator and leave the 3rd port open to atmosphere (you could plumb it in before the turbo but its not needed, just make sure its not blocked and doesnt see boost).

if one standard line isnt enough you could use both the feed and return as feeds and then use the charcoal canister line (i assume 32s have them aswell?) or an old hicas line if your not running it for the return. also a standard pump will more than suffice as a lift pump if you havent already got a nismo.

yep give it a tap with the other caps still on (not tight though). the 2 bolts are the only thing holding them on

cant see why 25 and 26 cranks wouldnt be just as strong if not stronger than 30 cranks. they can handle more power than you'll ever need

perfectly normal

yer the 26 has grooved mains and 3 or 4 (cant remember) holes in the bearing to feed the crank, which means much better oiling through the mains and big ends.

ditch the rising rate reg. stock 26 reg will be much better. standard fuel rail should be fine.

i ended up trimming it back a little, that maps nearly a year old now. it originally had around 20-25 degrees less around that whole area and i find it 100 times better to drive like this, throttle response is a heap better and makes noticeably more torque. although i did overdo it a little, hence why i trimmed it back.

its just a bad idea in general. a map sensor might not create any issues but if you ever get any sort of leak/bleed on that line it'll drop fuel pressure under boost, which isnt good. theres plenty of other good spots to get boost references from

i agree to an extent, the biggest problem with asking on a forum though is your only allowed to say good things about workshops. if anyone posts a bad experience about a "reputable" workshop it simply gets deleted. so dont take everything you read as gospel

25 manual says 93-103NM. also make sure theres plenty of oil on the threads

yes it does, hence why its perfect for routing into the cabin. never ever ever T anything into the FPR vac line

T it into the same nipple the standard boost gauge uses

leak down and figure out where its coming from. i'd also get another set of washers anyway, you really dont want the nut on the end of the thread. not that it'd give you low compression but you should use 25 torque figures for the head bolts/studs not 30e(t)

steer clear of xspeed if you want it done sometime in the next year..... tried ringing around the other workshops listed on here?

hardly, leave it in the standard position, make sure your intake pipe has a bend in it and you'll never have any troubles. as for tuning, same basic principles apply as with a standard turbo, you want a gradual dip from cruising afr's down to 11.5-12:1 at peak torque/full boost then 12:1 to redline and as much timing you can run without inducing knock or going past MBT