JonnoHR31

myth. a 3" afm is not going to affect your spool

make an intake pipe with a bend and put the afm pre turbo. aslong as theres a bend between the afm and turbo it'll work as per factory

if the motors in and running at the moment try the easy shit first like a known working solenoid, yours might click but could be broken inside. assuming you've checked the solenoid is getting the correct signal from the ecu at the correct rpm? next step would probably to try another cam gear. 2 1.5mm feeds should be enough

yer myne runs cold too and i do the same. but 99% of people dont have that problem and shouldnt touch it, especially when settings up a base map to get to the tuners.

never tested it for certain but myne seamed to be working fine, i run larger head feeds than most people reccomend though, mainly because the vct has its own 1.5mm feed, which uses up a fair bit of oil. how exactly did you do it and what size head feeds are you running?

the standard pfc cold enrichment figures are spot on, dont touch them. the only reason you should ever set the 50 degrees value to 1.000 (you have to have numbers in there...) is if your full running temp is significantly less than 80 degrees, which is pretty rare.

you'd wanna make sure it was actually leaking and at a rate that bothers you before you go to all the effort. if you know your way around the engine bay all you need are some tools and engine manual (pm me if you need a copy) and you should be fine.

if its running fine dont bother. to reset it go to the etc menu and select data init, you will lose all your afm and injectors settings, any tune and all your self learnt idle.

i doubt kermit has the equipment to weld cast. tried places like harris engines?

try it infront of a cop and report back on your findings

it'll be a long time before that happens, having some engine troubles and havent found any motivation to touch it for a few months now....

it always has been

56T 3076, used to have the .82 IW housing on the standard manifold but swapped it for a T4 1.06 T/S ATP housing and hks cast low mount last year, at the same time as going to a 30det. motor is a standard 25/30 with the usual shit. havent driven it much with this turbo setup due to other engine issues but it made noticeably more power than the old setup. hard to compare spool times when so much was changed at the same time but the 1.06 housing wasnt noticeably laggy and it made great torque everywhere, loved timing a lot more than the old setup aswell.

never seen any other mechanical fans, probably because the standard ones flow more than enough air for pretty much any setup. as said, when is it overheating?

standard hks gate is 38mm on the cast low mounts. very interested to see how it goes. i have the larger 1.06 T4 ATP housing with the same manifold but havent had a chance to get it on the dyno yet. Atleast fitment should be a little easier with the T3 housing.

looks like its to suit a standard manifold to me. impossible to tell for sure from pics, but definately not to suit highmount.

yes, by default it flashes the engine light if knock exceeds 60, injector duty exceeds 98% or afm voltage gets close to maxxed. all 3 have a different type of flash.

most likely false knock readings

what sort of info?

this. or you've hooked it up to the NC port when you should be using NO

clearly these, idiot

.18 is for the nismo 555s, sard/denso will be different. as said though, select vg30 from the airflow list and scale the injectors to 67%. do a search around here and check pauls faq to see if you can find the latency figures for your injectors.

1 bottle over 2 tanks of fuel is enough to completely f**k a brand new set of plugs, seen it happen several times. dont use it

sticking out the side of the head at the front on the inlet side, it has a long hex section then a plug on the end of it, reddish brown plug from memory. its on the same part of the loom as the cas and 2 coolant earths

highly unlikely country BPs will have 98 dont use octance booster, it does an awesome job of f**king spark plugs and o2 sensors real quick, probably not great for the fuel system either. just use 91 and dont thrash it if your that worried, if everything is working properly with a standard ecu theres no way you'll make it knock just cruising along if you use 91.