JonnoHR31

iirc the IAT sender and the ecu coolant temp sender are the same, so it'd work as a IAT sensor. But the problem is, you cant simply remove all the coolant temp compensations in the ecu. its used for general enrichment, cranking injection times, cold idle, overheating protection and cold timing protection. have a look at the cranking injector times in the standard power fc map, theres a massive difference between hot and cold start. once you wire it up the way your saying it probably wont even start, let alone run properly.

i hope your joking? theres a reason the ecu has its own coolant temp sender...

in the settings menu of the hand controller its under cranking. does it sound like its not getting enough fuel or too much?

compression will still drop with a r33 head, the chambers are around 15-20% larger

what are your cranking injector opening times set to? and what injectors are you running? sounds like its not getting enough fuel

target idle is under rev/idle in the settings menu of the hand controller. one setting for a/c off and one setting for a/c on. normally a vac leak will raise the idle unless its huge. but if your getting less vacuum then its definately worth looking for. what sort of afr are you getting at idle? RBs tend to need to be fairly rich to idle nicely, they usually miss and carry on if you try and tune it to 14:1 or leaner.

this. bad idea

what have you got the idle values set to and what does it idle at when its at 15 degrees? the pfc goes into a closed loop idle mode and ignores the main ignition map, using between 10 and 20 degrees of timing to make it idle at the target idle, although it seams to do a pretty shit job of it sometimes.

work fine on all twin cam RBs Jonno34, you basically want to run the largest gap you can without getting any misfire under load, every engine is different so it takes a little trial and error. might be worth learning how to do it yourself as im sure its not too cheap paying a workshop $100+/hr

exact same thing happened to me when i first got my motor. turned out the shaft of the cas was slightly bent, causing the cas to gyrate, which snapped the bracket in the same way as yours. thanfully the guy i bought the motor off gave me another cas and bracket. check your cas

andy can be a bit half assed if theres a lot of other work to do

come live in balga! give it 3 months and you'll hate anything and everything to do with africa...

pitty he doesnt give a f**k about average joe customer.... hyperdrive know what they're doing, just hope you dont get booked in on a really busy day.

only useful if your making a fair bit of power with an aftermarket ecu. pointless with a standard ecu and will just foul up quicker

use bcpr6es bkr6e if you want v grooves joel, it depends on the condition of your coilpacks mainly but if they're standard you'll probably have to gap them down to avoid spark blowing out. if you dont wanna experiment too much just gap them to .8 and see how they go.

yes its not properly fuel cutting, thats the problem nismoid, did you adjust the fuel cut rpm limit? its the 2 f/c rpm settings in the rev/idle menu, one for aircon off and one for aircon on. whats yours set to snozzle?

long shot but does the coolant temp sender output change at all?

doesnt always work. on most cars the bottom of the windscreen is a high pressure point and air actually goes down into the engine bay, making airflow worse. no idea what it does on a 32 though.

i simply did them 4 at a time, keeping the bits seperate and putting them back where they were. just make sure you dont put too much oil in them when assembling them. i had 1 lifter that pumped up and refused to bleed down, was holding an inlet valve open. had to tear apart the whole top end just to replace 1 lifter.

ngk is the brand. they made coppers, platinums and iridiums. coppers give the best spark of all but they dont last as long as platinums and iridiums. for a sr20 go buy a set of coppers, should be less than $20

profec uses a bleed solenoid and should return to gate pressure when turned off

bcpr6es, dont pay any more than $30 for a set

check all the hoses

the pintaras have 4.11 diff ratios which is what i think hes after. skylines have 3.7 (manual) and 3.9 (auto)

which part are you after? i have a spare rb25 one but the plate that bolts to the block is cracked so really its only good for the actual heat exchanger.