JonnoHR31

sau dating service begins again!

yes run an unrestricted line

yep they come with new o rings, lube and instructions aswell. you only need the usual tools to install them

myne seam fairly close. had to set the latency figures a little higher than the flow sheet though.

thats because you cant use the gear to tighten with the vct cams on rb25s as its no good for the internal mechanism, you have to hold the cam itself. on normal cam gears you can do it either way

deatchwerks used to be highflowed stockers, no longer the case afaik, for rb25 anyway. depending on the ecu you have and your future goals it might be worth going straight to 1000s to cover any future desires for more power/e85 etc. gcg are the australian distributor but they do throw their markup ontop. i ordered directly off the deatchwerks website with no hiccups

you might get away with the radiator in but fan definately has to come out. and if your balancer hasnt been off in a while and you need to use a puller than the radiator will probs have to come out.

just got my motor going again with some 1000cc side feed deatschwerks. had a little trouble with the latency but all sorted now and idle just as well as the nismo 555s they replaced. can drive around at low revs and idle like a stocker with enough fuel capacity for 800+hp

by cooler pipe i meant the pipe after the turbo, not the intake pipe. yes it should run fune just running straight off the actuator

the T piece should be between the cooler pipe and actuator. if your just doing it to get past the pits then run a hose directly from the cooler pipe to the actuator and get rid of the solenoid altogether

sounds like its been locked. if you've already had it running then you should be able to drive it there, just take a spare set of plugs incase you foul them.

all that stuff is in the manual for both rb25 and rb26 its just the bottom end stuff that isnt, big ends and mains etc

yer the nissan manual only has rb26 bottom end stuff for some reason. apart from the harmonic balancer though they should all be the same

sounds like something i'd do

yer thats great for fueling but and it will run through different load cells on a hot day than a cold day in the same gear. the problem is with timing, if you tune it to suit all gears on a 25 degree day then go drive on a 40 degree day, higher gears are gonna run through the same cells as lower gears on cold days. so you'll have either too much timing for a hot day or not enough for a cold day. seperate AIT timing correction is very handy but at the end of the day you only need it if you want every last bit of power.

tune to e80 and when it goes back to e70 it'll be slightly richer. the difference would be so small it wouldnt even matter anyway.

it depends on your setup, with internal gate and an actuator getting one close to your target boost is more important than with external gate as with external you can use both ports to hold the gate shut until a few psi before your target boost. i say see how you go with your current spring and if its not enough you can always change it later.

your a dickhead

i hate to start a shit fight but unless you work there full time and have done for years theres no way you could know exactly how every one of his tunes has gone. sure hes a good tuner but the last time i was there i left pretty dissapointed with his efforts, was very unproffesional.

the bashing back and forth of the limiter puts a lot of stress on the oil pump. the n1 pumps have the weakest gears (due to their shape mainly) and can break easily if you bash limiter too much. there seams to be a bit of luck involved aswell though, some people never have any trouble

on the passenger side of the block right at the bottom where one of the gearbox bolts goes into theres a small machined surface, clean it off and it'll have rb30 stamped on it if is one. other giveaways would be a gap between the top and bottom timing cover, grinder marks around the bottom of the exhaust manifold near the block and clearance issues.

no need to take the rocker covers off, just leave the cam gears on and line the dots up to the marks on the rear timing cover. if you turn the crank roughly 60 degrees past tdc you can turn the cams without any risk of piston to valve contact

in that case your limit will be whatever the standard pistons can handle. reason i asked was, if its a stocker bottom end then your not gonna be able to push much further power wise and a gtx would be a waste. but in this case it comes down to how far your willing to push the standard pistons.

i have a full set of s1 rb25det lifters sitting outside i can measure if you need any measurements

is the motor built?