JonnoHR31

i certainly would do it, if you set the map up properly it'd never go outside the map anyway but even if it did it'd be safe. for example i have the last low road on my map set rich and retarded and the row just past rev limiter the same for safety. an extreme example, imagine the last cell had 1 more degree of timing than the 1 before it, if it was set up the way you describe the timing would rise as you get further and further away from the limit of the map, hardly a good thing. much safer to have it flatline. most newer ecus have protection features and you can set them up to cut everything if you overboost/over rev etc.

nistune can, yes

20psi+ and re tune

wont cause any flow problems. aslong as you get a decent joiner on there with a good clamp it should seal alright. my biggest concern would be any other damage caused by whatever hit it hard enough to do that, any idea how it happened?

dunno about perth but theres a user on here that does it over east. i think its P.J used to have a PM with all the details but since the upgrade lost them all

yer goes onto the block. might pay to keep the 25 bits (mainly the fitting in the block) until you get a kit

tomei is adjustable, wind the top bolt (after undoing the lock nut) into the reg to increase the pressure, but only do this on the dyno right before a re tune and dont go crazy with the pressure.

it interpolates between cells but if you go past the end of the map it'll keep using the same value as the last cell on the map (for whatever axis you've maxxed). it wont keep following the previous interpolation.

wow you were lucky, i had to drill a fair way into myne just to get enough bite to pull it out. tried 5-6mm at first and the bolt just pulled out and stripped the thread. think i ended up leaving the bolt in there and cutting it off to plug up the gaping hole i left

yes, 30 screws straight on. 20 has a small sandwich plate iirc and 25 has the oil cooler/warmer thingy

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/191756-consolidated-workshop-business-listing-thread/

18 x 1.5 is rb20/25 size, 32 gtrs are smaller as you've now discovered

unfortunately the only way to use e85 over here atm is to buy it by the barrell, which is expensive. caltex arent interested in shipping it over here and even if they were its still illegal to sell in WA. 375cc injectors will max out somewhere between 190rwkw and 240rwkw depending on a few things.

get some made up at a hose specialist. easiest way is to take in the turbo and something with the same thread as the fittings in the block you need, then explain what you need. water flow doesnt matter, can go either way

stock 25 head bolts are 10mm hex, i used a 10mm allen key with the short end cut off then a 10mm socket on that, worked very well and had no troubles with the cams in. studs do not get torqued down into the block, hand tight only iirc. and yes use the standard torque settings for the nuts, the extra clamping force comes from the different thread design.

i kept the factory water cooler setup. havent taken any temp readings but water temps always nice and cool so i cant see it making the oil hotter. i agree its not ideal but for a basic 30det it does the job

tell them to walk, problem solved

yer take it out of the car, but theres no need to remove the mesh from the ends of the afm

yep, they both unscrew. if your having trouble getting the 25 one out i used the tool for changing discs on a makita angle grinder, perfect fit. as for the 30 one, i used nut munchers because i wasnt gonna use it, but if you want to keep it find 2 nuts in the right thread and lock them together. also make sure you use a new gasket and everything seats properly, i cracked my filter housing from it not sitting right and tightening it up just a little. had to find another one, was a PITA

if you can afford it they'd be a good idea. otherwise new stocker bolts should do the job fine

depends on the use. organics are great for the street but dont handle the drags too well once you start making that sort of power no how much clamping force you put behind it

just a socket, ratchet and possibly a flathead screwdriver to pry it off. cant remember what size bolts they are, probably 12 or 14mm. unless its been drained it'll be full of oil, if you sit the diff so the back cover is pointing up then it wont piss out. yer your looking for a ratio stamped on it like 37:9, or you can count the teeth on the crownwheel and the teeth on the pinion and figure it out that way.

best way to tell what ratio you have is to pull the back cover off the diff before you install it and see whats stamped on the crownwheel. i think 4.11s are 37:9 manual 31 skylines are 3.7 factory (except gts) auto 31 skylines are 3.9 factory and all 31 pintaras are 4.11 factory, also 25 spline centre and axles instead of the 28 spline the skylines got. and only the silo's and gts's came with lsd's, shit ones at that

if you can afford it studs are better. depends on budget and power goals etc

yes