JonnoHR31

http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...cat=&page=1

those exact ones are BKR7EKC, they dont have v groove like the ones you mention tho. cant remember exactly but the twin prong is identified by either the K or C or both at the end of the part number. have a google search for the ngk diagram that breaks down the part numbers, its all in there. btw you can also get plugs with 3 and 4 prongs, kinda funky

unless you can get exact firgures from an injector test or similar the only way to set it up is with experimenting. altho .2v drop is bugger and 13v is smack bang in the middle of the 12v and 14v settings, so you might find youself having to adjust both of them to get it right. if you want to rule out any chance of problems later you could adjust it all then pull off the alternator belt and check the afr's with a lower voltage and adjust to make sure you never get a lean out if your voltage drops lower than normal for whatever reason

like this?

to properly test it make sure you log only advanced with the datalogit (no basic, aux, sensors or any of that stuff) without the hand controller plugged in.

yer me too, never expected to see a funny car do a 3 point u turn on a normal width track his skids were awesome, definately one of the best parts, any idea what sort of speed he was doing down in those skids?

if battery voltage is the only variable causing it to run richer you can adjust the settings to suit. your 12v figure is slighty different to the base map for rb26 but the rest are the same, they're for standard injectors tho, no aftermarket injectors are going to have exactly the same numbers as factory. at what voltage does it run normal and what voltage make it go rich? and how rich?

your doing it wrong and potentially dangerously. set it back where it was, as that was correct and wind the idle screw down as newkleer said

they might aswell have not bothered bringing the f1 car here if they were just gonna drive like that, what a joke. not only did he not set a new lap record, he was more than 3 seconds slower than the current record, was babying it way too much. apparently they only allowed for 6000 people then sold over 20 000 tickets (and didnt check them at the gates, could have been heaps more there), hence why there werent enough busses, parking or even water didnt see the super karts or the rally race that was promised either. after party was good tho

did a bit of full load tuning like that once on a ghetto turbo honda crx, front brakes didnt like 4th gear power runs much....

should pull from the front of car and push towards the back

yes i know its low, was crazy rich. didnt flow test the injectors, got bigger ones now anyway. pretty sure it was just a combination of a restrictive exhaust, way too conservative tune (timing wise) and a low reading dyno but it has to be the afm....

and if afm volt normal, afr normal. comprende?

i've run both resistor and non resistor type with no noticeable difference, works the same either way but yes technically your supposed to use resistor type for skylines. coilpacks are the biggest factor when it comes to plug gaps, for example when i had standard coilpacks, which were pretty tired, i had to gap the plugs down to ~.5mm to stop it misfiring under boost. yes this isnt ideal but its better than misfiring and fixes the problem until you can get new coilpacks. every cars different but basically you want to run the biggest gap you can without misfire. if you can play around with gaps yourself do some experimentation to find what works best, if your paying a mechanic then its probably best to just go straight to .7-.8

how do you figure that?

wtf?

standard turbo, 12psi, 12:1 afr

mmmm tempting. wonder how the ol 31 rear end would handle the extra torque

yep, always a good idea to pick a spring as close as possible to your target boost, to make sure theres no problems. most of the time you'll get away with weak springs, for example i have a 7psi spring and have no problems running 25psi, but sometimes it just causes too many headaches also, on most ebc's gain is different to set gain/gate pressure. for example on the profecs set sets the % of duty cycle then you use the gain to control how hard or slow it comes onto boost and holds in the top end then set gain or start boost sets the boost pressure the solenoid lets the gate/actuator see boost pressure at all. general rule of thumb is to set this 2-3psi below your target boost pressure

so dynos, timing, exhaust restrictions, turbo setups etc all play no part whatsoever?

they're talking about cylinder heads you dirty old man

definately rb25 and definately factory 370cc injectors like i said, every car and dyno is different, some cars will happily do 220+ but some wont

sounds like GFD's from bali, i drank 10 cups of them in less than a minute, sugar f**ks you up

have an external bosch 044 hardwired, certainly no issues there. main reasons were, conservative tune and hitting slightly richer cells on cold mornings. like i said theres a lot of variables and some cars cant make that much power with standard injectors, simple as that

every cars different. i maxxed standard injectors at 185rwkw, other people get 250rwkw out of them. theres a lot of variables