NISMOGTT

Nope the law stats that you need to have a spare tyre at all time's.... run flats in WA are not a way to get around our ancient laws...

This is spot on and the reason i have never been given a yellow sticker even though having them look under my bonnet many many times.... Had the car over 4 years with stereo, FMIC, POD, low ride, zorst, EBC in sight all the usual mods you see and they try to find anything and i make them explain.... one cop even tried to get more for not having an accessable spare tyre until i proved him that it come straight out even with the subs in the boot un-moved.... know the law and question the police as they need to be able to back themselves.... and best of all record the whole conversation on your phone for evidence works a treat when you go show their supervisor that they are tools and have to appologise to you FYI: they record you so you can do the same

First thing to try is put the std BOV back on and see if that fixes all the idle and 'anti-stall' point... Next thing is the TPS voltage is in the correct range for the ECU - unsure of the exact range but i am sure others will know.

Not too sure here but would there be a huge difference in the fact i have an R34 NEO compared to your R33?

Sorry for that i am not too sure.... i would have to ask my tunner next time i see him so i dont give you mis-leading info...

89CAL, NISMO fuel pump 800CC Power Ent. Inj. Z32 Power FC Blitz EBC genreric FMIC 3" zorst come from Japan, bellmouth dump, and some hi-flow cat brought over 4 years ago so can't remember brand stock AirBox with no cover just a mech grill on filter... nothing else except a new clutch and a healthy engine according to the tuner. Mick_o, yeah i am very happy with this for on the street as i said i get boost better than my stock turbo and am actually using less rev's to drive as the car feels a lot more lively now....

Not sure what most issue are about having the big top end number, it should be able drive-ability on the street, well it is for me... My KAI gets me to over 400Nm before 3500RPM and max is up over 450Nm by 4500RPM.... also my power line builds faster that my stock turbo did and does not die off until redline... power is 350Hp up around 6300RPM... most drive-able 350Hp car i have driven... i even save fuel now as i dont need to drive as hard to get some boost as before.... as said i think too many look for the big end power number but forget about driving under 3500RPM on the street... just my 2cents after having this turbo on my car... still need my tune to be touched up as well which should see it a bit smoother and maybe slightly better numbers.

if it is blue smoke out the back than that is definately burning oil... needed to change the spark plugs due to oil on them is a bit odd... that means there is oil on the pistons which would suggest maybe rings are bad, which would also mean blue smoke out the back... it could be burning off old risidual oil but i would think that would be gone pretty quick... i see 2 options here, first is kick up a stink about being sold a lemon and demand your money back, (if that exists in this state) or if you have a warrenty drive it so much that the oil runs out and destroys the engine so they have to replace it, fact is you have taken it back for the problem to be sorted and they haven't by the sounds.... Also if they say they took it else where to be fixed ask to see the reciept so they are not just passing blame.

R34 GTT Unopened RB25DET NEO HKS GT2835 KAI Z32 850CC power ent. injec. Nismo Fuel Pump FMIC Power FC Blizt BC Splitfires some 3" zorst 350hp/261kw @ around 17psi little rough on cruise so will take it back to tidy the tune up but not expecting any extra power.

+1 for price and service

you can have one legally if it is part of the alarm/emobiliser.... so that if someone tries to get in then the engine will shut off... i have passed the pits with mine on and he simply asked me to shut the engine down.... same as the police whenever i get pulled over...

Hi guys, everyone is saying to put in extra oil then start the car and let it run, do i assume let it run all the way to operating temp as the HKS oil cooler has a thermostat built in meaning it will not fill the cooler until the thermostat opens.... this would mean your overfull until this opens correct? Also wondering how the oil would drain from the cooler knowing that it is lower than the lines running to the oil filter and by means of gravity the oil would remain in the cooler? sorry if these are noob questions my logic could be way off, i am looking at putting a cooler on very soon and have never had one to know the answers.

yeah that is why we say "direct fit"... you can buy adaptors so you do not have to hack your loom if you are not comfortable doing so... check eBay

From everything i have read the only "direct fit" is the 3/4 length ones that the newer FG xr6 uses... the models before ran the full length ones as Simon-S14 says and will need a spacer. These are also the same 3/4 legnth ones used in the VE V8 LS2/3 or whatever it is...

The girl does not want a new one as it wont look good due to fit... Plus it is the principle that i should not have to pay for something cause Ford did not enter the details correctly into their system... I never take shit and will never pay for someone elses mistakes... i will find the origonal dealer and make them remove and find the code for free

If you could would be awesome... let me know and i will PM you all the details of the car or will even take a drive to visit him... Mr EPS, yeah it is the car you cleaned for us, thanks for the long story was interesting but no toyota for her Syfon, i do understand the privacy information etc and dont want you to get in trouble so thanks anyway to the others i know it should be in the book the issue is she did not get the log book with the car and her olds did not check it was there :S Thank you all for the help

Hey Guys, BACKGROUND: Girl own's a 2006 Ford Focus and had her battery replaced and now has no stereo due to needing a security code (like someone would steal it ) - we have rung Ford and they have given us the incorrect number and said it must have been logged incorrect by the sales agent. She is the second owner and does not have the log book. Ford want to charge us to remove the head unit to get the serial number so they MIGHT be able to get the code. RANT: I dont think we should have to pay for them maybe getting us the code for something they did wrong when selling the car. QUESTION: how can i find out the origonal dealer that sold the car (Ford will not/ can not give me this info - due to privacy) so that i can go back to them to get the code free of charge? If someone works at DPI would they have the info and how could i get it? Any advice would be appreciated - except to replace it with after market

was not sure on the price - cheap arses lol do agree with you on the taking it to the track and drags go for a button or multi-plate for sure

a twin plate is way over kill... it all comes down to how you drive, like luvpsi said it is fine if you know how to use it... i have seen a cushion last now for 10 months as a daily driver, 16000km with 425rwhp so it will work and be fine not pushing it at all... if you do hard launches it will get eaten up and by that i mean 5000rpm and also riding the clutch like a bitch that does not know how to stop at lights correctly or do hill starts, that will destory most cluthes quickly i have the feeling people like to go button and multi-plate simply cause they think it is cool and everyone else did it... be different and build the car for you and how you drive not everyone else as you have to live with the rattles and hard pedal feel for going overkill

if it is just going to be weekend driving then i would suggest the cushion button that i have.... it bites really hard and it nice and easy in traffic...

Mate that is a very loaded question and needs a lot more detail... what type of driving will you do? Hard core drags with dumping the clutch, racing, drifting or just street driving... as a guide my stock nissan one when i pulled it out was absolutly fine with heaps of meat left no burn marks running just over 300rwhp for 3 years plus what ever the guy before me did... other's will say that it should have died on that power... but i drive easy on the clutch... so without more detail all i can say is yes it will handle it...

what happens if google maps gives me a faster route ??

Ok mate dont get to stressed just yet ok... You went to a run of the mill service center which means they probably used run of the mill Mineral oil, which is not to good for our cars... Try changing the oil to something full synthetic or at least part synthetic that is a little lighter weight like a 10W-40 and see how that goes.... it might not clear up the noise straight away but give it a week and you will notice a difference... As for the belts they might have used a cheap belt which has happened to me before or simply not tight enough - this is a simple fix and nothing to worry about, unless you leave it way too long and wear the belt and it breaks and wraps around things. Let us all know how it goes after a GOOD oil change

Mark me down for sure either day i too have brown spots on the seat and roof

Dont get too carried away with a dyno number leave that for the big block boys who can't turn corners... you can have 1000hp if you like, just to say how 'cool' you are but end of the day i bet on a street road to 100km/h a 300hp car would chomp it due to getting the power down and response of the engine.... the dyno is a rolling road for tunning and no more than that