GTScotT

I dont have ebay access at work so Ill need to update this from home. What motor is it? Is there a reason you are limited to a T3 flange? The T3 IWG housings are highly undesirable.

FYI those photos are actually of MY OWN CARS, and that is the actual set of rims I am selling. Thanks,

Hi all, As the title says, want to swap my Nismo rims. Paint is a little worse for wear but rims spin true and have no issues. One pair 17x8 +32 - Fronts, Falken RT615 50% tread 225/40R17 One pair 17x9 +34 - Rears, Falken RT615 50% tread 255/40R17 Want to swap for a set of 4 equal size rims, preferably 16" but will accept 17"... Want 16x8 +30 ish (similar size to R32 GTR rims), preferably with tyres or can do a cash adjustment my way to fix that. ISSUES: one of the RT615s has dirt in the bead and needs to be removed refitted as it has a slow leak. No other issues, they balance fine and other than paintwork being a little worse for wear are otherwise fine. I would prefer a pickup/exchange scenario at my place, I can help you change the rims over if you need to. Pics: Thanks,

I would also like to know if you could make a manifold with an alternate flange plate? IE I would like an SR manifold in highmount design but with an EVO flange plate. Would love to know and asap

Was that a typo mate? TD06H-18g is overkill. Had you meant TD05H-18g in an internal gate form with T25 SR20 style housing, then go for it ive done one of those myself and it was a really nice turbo. And to the others, no worries. I more or less check this thread daily so I have a fairly good recollection of what weve discussed or what has come up over the time. Its just about my favourite thread lol.

Mate STATUS has posted a few results of people running the T67 on 98... There was even a guy who posted his results through an auto and low boost, it still make like 270kw.... STATUS has posted results of people on 98 doing about 330kw, should be good for the same on others Id say.

Ahhh... The weekly question. "safe boost" search results Next time try to use the search.. Searching for safe boost will show you threads that have the word safe and boost in the same posts but in no particular order. Searching for "safe boost" will search for posts in threads that littlerally say SAFE BOOST in that order so you will find the right results. Thread closed.

Check out the specs of the exhaust wheel and consider that too much flow from the front side for the rear more or less would stall them. I think thats their problem, they choke on spool and take a little longer than expected to wind up. Probably worse on a 3L too

Buy the kando housing to suit your turbo. Pull the rear housing off and measure the diameter of the largest point of the wheel (exducer). Then buy the housing to suit which one you have. 61mm = TD06SL2 65mm = Standard TD06 67mm = TD06H Kando the great has the housings you want for any of the above. Turn your nightmare into a near bolt on affair. Please read the kando thread for further detail.

Being brutally honest I would go one of those manifolds regardless of the option, but thats just me. Pick the outcome you want, but id say use one of those manifolds for sure.

LOL Mate, I think I commented on how rapid your car is a few pages back. The way the graph is scaled and the dyno is calibrated is directly related to what the results will be on paper. I can definitely say that this car has a lot of low down torque and pull. When Mick dropped me at the station, he slowed to 2krpm in 4th gear and pulled away again as if it was in 2nd gear... It was nonsense. Then in his street, foot down/brake/foot down INSTANTLY back on full song. Dunno how much better it could be. But it would be interesting to see, I think thats fair to say. But you lot need to stop babooning on about the graph, the cars an animal.

Read the last few pages and the below link. We have been discussing those exact manifolds. Ebay steampipe manifold thread I think the general verdict is they are worth their money.

A close friend has a 2510 equipped GTR, I consider his car to be fairly well optimized in terms of supporting mods. The 2510s feel to have an excellent top end and are fairly linear down low but have a fairly sharp shift onto power. Sort of like a big single.. they have the low end pull of a 300kw turbo, and they make just over 300kw.. but they have the lag of a 350-400kw turbo lol This is just my feeling, and I flat out keep telling the guy to swap for a single but yeah... Hes spent enough money. If I was you I would sell them and buy a good quality singe manifold then bang on a 300kw capable single and reap.

+11ty

I would love to see this turbo on a 6boost with a .63 and fat gate. I think it would surprise us all again! Micks results are awesome enough as it is

Coz Mick is probably flat out I'll confirm that this was tuned on caltex eflex.

LOL Dont make that joke.. 9 out of 10 Nissan accidents start off with 'watch this bro'... This is a very 'watch this' time for old Micko lol But you will have to wait for him to spill the beans

In love!

I'd say hes out hammering it, I'm getting sporadic SMS lol Unusual for the ole Mick

I'll show you some later besides the point bloody yank lover

If you have the option get yourself the garrett big can item Apparently they help spool on a little earlier, but I honestly didnt see a problem with Mick_o's one (his is the small can they normally come with)

Your in the UK arent you Andy B? In OZ we measure actual energy at the output point. Thus if we are on a Hub dyno we are measuring energy at the hubs and if we are on a Chassis dyno we are measuring energy at the wheels. Obviously the hub dynos read a little higher as the wheels sap a little energy away on the chassis dyno. We normally want to know what sort of power we are putting to the road, it is a good indicator of the cars performance. Take our fabled Commonwhore V8's for example, some of the older LS1 models rolled out of the factory with something along the lines of 280kw (flywheel rated), yet you chuck them on a dyno and should be pleased if you have 200rwkw. Yanks are also guilty of calculating flywheel HP through a chassis dyno or similar, sort of misleading IMHO. I would rather know what sort of energy I put to the road than what sort of energy I could theoretically put to the road lol

LOL ahh... cars. "and all ill have to do is change this $5...... $5,000 part" lol yep. I sold my last car and bought my current car complete, every mod I wanted. Now it only has scraps of the original setup left as nearly everything needed to be redone lol. Keen to see your results tho, Its a nice kit up you have going

I went in Mick_o's 33 with the .82 internal gate GTX3071 and can say the Garrett actuator does its job well. The car was rapid and had really good boost recovery. I wouldnt think twice about going Garrett if its an option for you. Blake I think the reported Kando issues are more around the housings than they are the actuators. Ive used a few of their actuators now and they work fine

Damn, and I thought everything was coming together.. I was brewing up a storm after lunch and I thought I\'d have some wicked manure for the money tree. I'm thinking this 68HTA onto GT28 concept might be exactly what I'm after. My motor is a little knock limited and doesnt like lots of boost, Mark did say that this compressor is aimed at the production type guys with limitations.. Especially the impreza boys who struggle above 17psi. That might suit me a lot. Im thinking that the GT28 might turn the HTA a little quicker than a TD05H will, and get some more shaft speed where I need it. That will probably see me cap out a little earlier than the compressor is capable of doing but I am honestly not chasing 300kw.. If I could get a flat out 240 at a reasonable PR I would be very happy.. Mark sounds confident and as always Stao is willing to do a smashing price on the mashine work. Need to sleep on it and bite the bullet by friday at the latest.