GTScotT

Does your R32 GTST come with an RB25DET series 1? If you find the answer is No, you have your answer.

PJ I believe charge temps are dependant on boost level, the compressors efficiency changes as the boost level rises and as such the charge temp can change too. Now the reason why I would like to see this is I would like to see the charge temp of a PT vs one of its rivals at set intervals. This would show us the actual efficiency of the compressor. Showing actual output vs boost vs temp would give great insight to those trying to decide if this line of turbos is for them. Obviously the lower the charge temp at peak power for the said turbo would be best. We have seen on other turbos prior (35R particularly) that E85 can work wonders in pushing the compressor out of its efficiency.. Something that you just shouldnt do on 98. Pushing it out of efficiency is directly related to boost pressure (as per a compressor map) and as such plays a big part in the application of the turbo. With no compressor maps to hand it would be very interesting to see charge temps of a said PT on an RB25 vs its mainstream competitor. I would love to see 3071 v 3076 v 5557. One more thing, please take the skirt off and come back to the topic. Noone is picking on you or the product, we are just assholes that love to get technical.

AFAIK E85 is about $1 a litre, however is only available at a handful of sites. I am yet to be convinced of its effictiveness beyond numbers, yet that is a sepparate debate. I have a friend who dabbled with a 6262 on a ported 13B, he managed 285Kw @ 16psi. The car is now for sale. I may try to convince him to push big boost into it, yet the ignition system is in need of some attention with this combo already, so I dare say he will be reluctant to bother. I would like to see an air temp sensor used in these results, pre-intercooler. That would be good to see (power vs. boost vs. charge temp), that would sort the apples from the Apples

Essentially, the boost control solenoid has an open or closed position. Closed position is controlled by gain. The higher the gain the longer the solenoid stays closed and allows the turbo to 'spool'. Open position is controlled by duty. The higher the duty cycle the shorter time the solenoid lets boost through to the wastegate, being open allows the turbo to vent exhaust gas and drop boost. Keeping these points in mind, a common fault in tuning is setting a high gain to acheive target boost as quickly as possible, yet have boost drop off in the higher RPM. Obviously based on the above the best way to tune would be to start with a low gain and work your way towards target boost by upping the duty cycle. You will also see some boost controllers with a 'start boost feature', this feature is what the minimum boost should be before the soldenoid does anything at all (other than stay closed). There are also others that have a gain and boost setting, these have a map inside that calculates its own duty cycle based on pressure at the sensor. Having one with start boost, duty and gain with limiter type correction also would be best. Not sure what the PFC has tho. With the above in mind you will probably also see the beauty in the turbotech design

+1 for high mounted gates. I always wanted a lowmount single also, with a big gidson motorsport looking manifold hanging over it. Id have the gate(s) pointing upward from the collector. From memory of the best way to locate a gate is straight off the collector, which in a low mount is not always possible. I would also vote T04Z. Ref: http://media.photobu.../1000213ig7.jpg

Hubs baby, mwaa Im actually sort of pleased with the 5557 result on 98 ron... Its not actually that shabby considering it would suit people running dual fuel. On a skyline you could get around on 98 with the up to 250rwkw range and go e85 for 350 and big boost. Quite versatile, however I think the point Lith is trying to make is that this is nothing new.. The 98 result, TO ME, seems consistent with a fairly standard 250rwkw setup (GTRS excepted - 200kw@4krpm POWA)

+1 will be fine on stock boost and shit a brick on anything more. Need: Z32, injectors, fuel pump, nistune.

This.

Truth is 18psi is a rough limit of the stock valve springs, so he may actually be avoiding causing you valve float. Hypergear (Stao) himself found this issue, I have also seen it across many over results. You may want to swap out your valve springs and retune.

That comes down to many things. Your actual rail pressure, the condition of your injectors (what they are flow matched to), the flow of your fuel pump, etc etc. I was able to fix a similar issue in a GTR running 800cc injectors @ 300kw on a walbro by means of a fuel pump relay. DC is now 70% max.

Had the same issue on my 3037, WD was the ticket. Dont worry about heating it up (for both flame on reasons and expecting it to unseize). Heating it up is likely to heat up the bolts first which will make them tighter in theory.. Which really is the whole issue to begin with (heat and expansion + corrosion causing them to seize). Can I ask, why not simply move to a .86 IW housing? I dont forsee a major gain moving to EX gate on this setup, especially not a feasible one. Im sure others will agree. As for results, peak power may change slightly. Torque delivery will be dramatically different and you should be able to wind some more timing into it. I dare say the issue you are having is the static CR. Could you elaborate on your current manifold setup? Pics? And also of your dump. Cheers,

Are you willing to run the free tune offer on a stock internal 1JZ? Do we have any guesstimates on what the unit can pump safely on 98ron and how much boost? Am on the market at the moment but I am leaning GTX or T67... Free tuning could sway me

lol is this a credit revival for OP?

Am happy for someone to correct me here, yet E85 runs at higher EGT than 98?? Yet am glad to hear your car is an all out animal as it should be

Nismoid stated 60rwhp. Are you arguing that 30-40rwKW!!! is somehow much different? 60 x 0.75 = 45........................................... does this make sense? Do you understand the relationship between HP and KW? It seems you are struggling to take onboard the common knowledge that 400rwhp is jack all for these cars. You have mentioned honda blocks cracking because of Xpsi of boost and made note of 200hp record breakers. What sort of tuner are you and what do you actually tune? Serious question.

Value for money get the turbo with an internal gate .82 turbine housing, get an exhaust cam gear and get it retuned. You will need a line kit, intake and cooler pipping modded and a completely new dump pipe. GCG have given me a rough price of $2200 for the GTX with rear housing. You can then get your mechanic to make you the dump/cooler/intake pipes and buy a RB/Garrett BB line kit from Kinugawa on ebay. The line kit is about $100 and I anticipate you will need to spend roughly 800 making the dump and other associated pipes. GCG also sell gates cam gears for something like $100 each and tuning will be up to your tuner. if you really want to go the whole hog you should look to a 6boob style manifold and budget for another $2500ish. GL

CA18 has the factory holes with a bolt in them already from memory. Should be easy to find.

If you want to crack a good 300kw, save yourself the cash and buy the .82IW garrett housing from GCG. Drop the car off to a good mechanic and have them fit the housing and make you a nice dump for it. Make sure you have the big can actuator in say 18psi to suit. Cost you under 1500 with a new tune and all I will say, 300rwkw and a massive smile on your face. For reference if you go a 6boob twin scroll you are going to put a hole in 5 grand. (2 gates + manifold 3k alone) GL

Can I ask, why do you keep posting about random truck junk yard turbos? Do you realize you can get a brand new or highflowed turbo that is proven to work the tune of $1000? The work/effort/money involved in fitting these random turbos will far exceed the benefit you will see. Please begin to reconsider your options, this site has a million and one to offer.

Dang, I think disco is correct in that case.. Seems to be a re profiled GTRS housing. Am now keen to see the results compared to the old 2835... perhaps this is what necessitated the surge slots.. Restrict outright housing flow in order to achieve even more midrange and alleviate the issue of surge by means of compressor cover.. Le hmm. 75coupe is that your 2835 on egay?

I can see a metal intake in there, so that issue is resolved. Stao, the graph shows he is running roughly 1 bar at a minimum. Do you expect this result from the turbo in question at that boost level? I think the result is more consistent with a stock op6 @ 14psi than it is a highflow with that sort of power. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Well now you can sell it to me for my JZ lol I had the 3037 pro S on my RB25 for a very short stint at 10psi. It felt like it would have been epic, although there is something that the back cut wheel and 71mm compressor just do in my pants.. Cannot deny!

Fair call, up to the OP I suppose.

LOL, it doesnt matter no.. I just am not confident it has much more to give. I base a great deal on feel when driving, one of these is RPM points of a motor. While a good 2L4 has something to show for 3500RPM, those are not necessarily big revs for a I6. I would say I am of the opinion that a 6 makes peak torque on a good street setup roughly 1000RPM later in the rev range than a 4 (say SR20 or 4G63 vs RB). This doesnt translate to lag in my opinion, I think these are simply the delivery characteristics of the motor. Personally results in question only further concrete the fact that I WANT one of those turbos.

Can I note, you are making power in the following intervals: 3-3200 100kw~ 4000 200kw~ 46-5200 240kw~ 6-7300 280+ Now may I ask, where would you like to IMPROVE YOUR RESPONSE? Response is how quickly the car makes power, not how quickly it comes on boost. Torque wins races, certainly not PSI@xRPM. While boost response may be a set variable to how a setup may perform, it is not the key indicator. Consider when plotting the compressor map of a turbo, variables taken into consideration is RPM/boost/engine VE/engine size. Alter the engine VE and for the same flow you will be pushing LESS boost than before. Same FLOW = same POWER. You are achieving a result that some argue is not possible from a turbo this size, are you certain that you need your boost to come on earlier? And are you certain that having it come on sooner will not make for a less desirable outcome overall? I remember I had an evo 4 with the most epic response id ever seen, truth of the matter was it would hit target boost at something along the lines of 5000RPM on the stock turbo. Infact I found that fairly normal for an evo with my mods. Friends had similar cars with more restrictive exhausts and saw boost on notably earlier, but also were NOT as fast when it came to torque or response. Key point, I believe this turbo wishes to run at roughly 18 psi on this motor - not more. You are also achieving this by 4000RPM, for a 6 cylinder this to me sounds like epic delivery. How does the car actually Drive now? Please elaborate.