GTScotT

The 20 is a good motor, its not the lag house everyone talks it down to be IMHO. Yet I would probably think the 3071 will not suit it, being the GT30 turbine it will need some gasflow to bring up shaft speeds for good boost response. Probably try a 2871 for a happier street turbo on the RB20 or a TD05/06, it all depends on desired results.

Some of you missed the etc lol obviously on the GTR specific 5,7,9,10s they look identical yet gt2860 can mean other turbos too, IE gt2860rs which is completely different to look at. Just make sure you buy the right one to suit your application, we are only assuming you want this for a GTR as you have not stated in your OP. Thanks,

for 240kw i would definitely hiflow the stock turbo, contact hypergear. the advantage is the turbo will bolt back into place and the modification process will be much cheaper in the long run. gt3071 is a 280+kw turbo.

I recall HKS released a document that showed 2835 response to be on par with that of the GTRS, after all they both share a 71mm compressor. I have honestly always suspected the 71mm compressor to yield a more desirable result for the 2.5L motor. The reason for this is flow characteristic, its small enough to ramp fast and large enough to flow a decent number. I am confident I am going to end up deciding on a GTX3071, I just need to get my JZ in the 33 already. I think the key to these turbos is exhaust housing, when I do mine I am going to pay the extra for the HKS 3037 rear housing. I carry no flame for any of the garrett housings, there are too many dubious results to warrant risking the outcome/longetivity of my build due to a poorly designed housing. While most of the .82 garretts seem fine, the design is too different from the HKS item for me to think is good. If anyone gets one of these turbos I seriously recommend buying the HKS housing to suit from GCG or elsewhere.

+1

Twin scroll or open ?

Are you certain its T4? Maybe take a pic measuring the flange

Very impressive result stao, congrats. Can you try and post one for 1JZ TT?

My thought on GTX3071 outcome is like this: Response somewhere between old 3071 and old 3076 Peak power similar to old 3076 Actual RIP like an amplified 2835 = monster.

+1 stick to this if its a fairly basic build.

HARD slip from about 5000revs. Use something cerametalic with a button face and a decent clamp load. I have faith in the exedy HD 5 button, some US manufacturers make 6 button discs which you can track down sepperately if you wish. I have also seen/used an extreme motorsport kit on an SR20 RWD which had a good clamp load and a 6 button disc. I am fairly sure they are pricier than the exedy though.

If you go internal gate, as a minimum get the garrett IW .82 housing. Preferably see if GCG can supply you with a HKS IW .87 Do NOT go .63, the number of issues to name is annoying. Wont hold boost, problems with heat, choke your motor at any decent boost level bla bla bla. Better yet would be external gate, but everyone has their price. GL

Yeah I know, I just need the bloody cash. PM sent buddy.

lol the left side of the map is surge, the right side is when its running too hot. That plot shows that if you are running 20psi, as long as its not hitting 20psi before 3000rpm and if you dont rev it over 8000rpm you will pretty much be making the most of the turbo. Chances are that turbo wont be on 20psi by 3000 when using the right size exhaust housing, so its good!

I hope this stays well documented. My brother is on his 2nd 3076 for the same reason. At 18 psi the .63 rear gets white hot on a 2.6L 4 pot. Can I suggest if a 35R stays on the motor a re-profiled HKS 1.01 rear housing be considered? It is a 3037 housing yet as we all know all 35R housings are simply reprofiled 30R housings to begin with. The HKS housing should open it up as much as necessary without much loss in response, it will also be a bolt on affair as far as the manifold goes (save some $$).

To be honest, $80 on a dyno run will tell you what boost is safe on it. Simply get someone to do a power run and set your boost to a reasonable level. Bare in mind that the stock turbos generally fail above 14 psi. Changing these is also an expensive exersize no matter how you look at it.

For those who arent sure how to plot compressor maps I have done a quick point to point on the GTX3071R. This is for a 2.5L motor @ 90% VE Boost shown on the map is 1.5 Bar For interests sake I also checked the figures at 101% (to push it to its extreme), 3000rpm became 22lb and 8000 became 54lb. All in all I would say this is an excellent turbo for the 2.5

Good price, if you posted this on the 13th I would have bought it

Getting warmer! Honestly guys $200 is too low, I do appreciate the fact they are genuine offers though.

Hey guys, After buying this cooler, my car sat for a while not being driven waiting for me to finish the motor. I since gave up on the thought of an RB and decided to go a JZ instead. As such this cooler no longer suits my needs and I need a cross flow core rather than a turn flow. This is literally brand new, I unboxed it and fitted it to the car. It had since been started and driven from the garage to its parking spot ONCE. Ive thrown the boxes away but still have the receipt if needed. Fitment is excellent and he core quality is the best I have seen from a JJR cooler, I wouldnt have purchased it otherwise! Brand new these are $499 Yours for just $400 Pick up in Bankstown. http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...cat=&page=1 Cheers,

Hmm, whats the plan for your oil return? Seems like it would be a bit tough running it past the manifold without it touching or getting superheated.

You cant be serious? I finally check back and read this.. Hope all is well, any updates?

Very very nice mate, I am doing the same conversion to my R33 How did you do your engine mounts? Did you make them yourself or buy a kit?

Can you explain what you mean by angle mounted? And do you have the stock cooler at home still so you can try that? Also, what brand is this 50mm alloy rad? You should do the CO test asap.

In an effort to utilize an existing thread; I am considering running 2 x 2860RS discos on my 1JZ I am confined to my .48 AR turbine housings however wont have much hassle going to a better compressor housing (oem housings are .30 AR for compressor). I am thinking of using the native .60 t04 cover off the disco itself, however fear it may create an inbalance with the turbine housing. Alternatively I was thinking of machining a set of 2560 covers on (still .60 AR). While we are on the topic of SR20 based turbos, what are some opinions on the above? I am figuring seeing as 2530s have an outright flow of say 450rwkw in max tune, perhaps the right comp cover in my .48 housings would yield a potential within 100rwkw difference? I am assuming the compressor cover will be the deal breaker.