GTScotT

Your graph looks good now, it is however sprawled over 200rpm points so the boost response can look a little lazier than it should. I actually see it as being quite good. Nice to see the preload worked for you. Can you check your EX cam gear setting? Fact of the matter is, your motor is now making the power at the right intervals. Perhaps the change in cam timing has increased engine VE at lower RPM which has allowed it to accept more volume (decrease actual measured boost).

Indeed it is a good turbo mate, HKS back cut the wheel so flow characteristics are anyones guess.. HKS know what they are doing tho, that turbo is GUN. Numbers are one thing, but seeing on road results from a 2835 is totally another league.

400rwHP.... That is roughly every second skyline on this forum. It seems that your turbo leaves you sinking in no mans land. Two threads for you to read: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pr...html&st=100 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/40...html&st=360 Those threads are about cars making 500+WHP on E85. Specifically look at the PT5557 results on E85 on a stock SR20, 500+WHP. The PT thread has all the proof you will need. End.

Need Moar info. What car, what mods? I get the impression the car is not stock.

Manual or auto will help you cause. Must include prices as per forum rules.

If you are running this in a GTR I do not think you will find a 3.7s set in factory form. If it were RWD only you could get a crown and pinion from a 200sx. The effect would be a 15% increase in gear length. 100kmh would become 115kmh at the same revs, so on and so forth. If you are topping out at 260 it will give you the ability to get very close to 300kmh. However, last I remember R32 GTR's have stupendously long gears to begin with ?

The issue could be bent suspension components to chassis rail being pushed over. Its impossible to say by discussion or photos. What the best thing to do would be to see the best suspension bloke you can in your area. Either that or a good mechanic. Some one will need to measure up the car to determine if the issue is in replacable parts or if it needs serious work.. GL

Thank you Prof. Oak. Ill call you when the egg hatches.

Obviously it is possible for the thing to melt, yet not common. Keep in mind the exterior of a space shuttle is also ceramic. If your cat was subject to some atmospheric re-entry temperature, you present quite the challenge!

Sorry mate, incorrect. There are 2 issues with ceramic turbos. Number 1 is, the shaft is not ceramic, the wheel only is ceramic which in most cases is fixed to the shaft by an epoxy. When EGT gets too high the epoxy melts and the wheel becomes dislodged. This is why the turbo is generally left with no trace of the wheel beyond the shaft. Number 2 is the ceramic wheel expands and makes contact with the housing more so than a steel wheel. This sees the wheel shatter in an instant. Number 2 was shown when the $250 high flow thread was around, porting the rear housing to drop surge proved to also drop EGT which made the turbo last a lot longer (with the standard ceramic rear wheel and at 17psi). Also you are correct in saying that metal cats melt, not ceramics. Ceramics collapse.

Ill explain it for you, fkn garrett mate.

If this goes ahead please put me down for a bolt in half cage, R33 coupe. Want it to be tidy and require minimal stripping + use of factory bolt locations if possible. Thanks,

I had the JJR return flow. The core was not gold for starters, its just a bad pic. Next the core was significantly better quality than their usual bar and plate 300x600. When I bought mine I walked in to buy a blitz, on careful inspection I decided to go the JJR. Core looked like it would flow well on the outside and end tank/internal design looked excellent also. I will buy again if this quality is maintained on other JJR cooler products, it really was a first.

From what I have seen this is a common issue guys. I think all people wanting to push more than 250rwkw reliably should consider a valve spring upgrade.

I really do not see what everyone is carrying on about, the thread was settled within the first 5 posts. OP asked if its safe to do what hes doing, he got his answer promptly at NO. OP did not ask further silly questions, he acknowledges he did not know any better. STATUS even posted good reason why NOT to do it giving the OP the idea he needs to stop in clear cut FACTUAL form. Worse has happened, let it go. Mods please lock, this is a tech section NOT the wasteland.

Not sure why people are still talking about 3071s, there is that much info on this forum about what those turbos are and what those turbos can do that you could not piss in the wind and NOT hit one of those threads. The OP has asked for 240kw, has stated he is on a budget. Unbolt your turbo, send it to hypergear, pay about $1000, tell him you want an easy 240kw, get it back bolt it back on AS IT CAME OFF, do the supporting mods and enjoy your 240rwkw. End of story. Hypergear has been successful in getting 300rwkw out of highflow turbos, 240rwkw is well within his ability to create a worthy high flow turbo. You are going to need the following at a minimum: Injectors - see status on this forum for highflowing injectors Z32 - get a used one with a plug classifieds on this forum Remap ecu - see toshi on this forum Fuel pump - see boostinimports on this forum Boost tap - get a turbotech for $30 on ebay (THE BEST) End.

OH YEAHHH??!! :| Well its not cm2 is it ?

LOL @ above. Le sigh, strippey horse I know your pain. GT3582R .70AR = Centre of turbo to centre of outlet = 76.2mm GTX4202R .60AR = Centre of turbo to centre of outlet = 108mm AR = Aspect Ratio, not fking cm2

My issue is in a true twin scroll twin gate car there would be nowhere for that gas to go when the valve is closed. For this to work you would need the gas to be capable of venting to the opposite side, which normally would only be by the wastegate port if you have a single gate twin scroll setup. I see NO benefit to this on an open housing nor it even being possible from a performance point of view. In twin scroll form this would only really work in a dud of a manifold to belin with. A manifold with combined ports and a balance pipe maybe. I would really want to see more, I smell BS and Im not even a farmer.

That diagram is for an R33 RB25DET ecu with VCT. Your RB20 ECU has no VCT. You need an RPM based controller that will work off the RB20 ECU's RPM trigger.

The issue you will have is most RB25 cams suit VCT rather than not. AFAIK adjustable gears on the stock cams can do the job fine. GL

Hi all, I am currently in the process of my JZ conversion and as such am selling all my RB related gear. This is the motor out of my S1 R33, it came out at 127xxxKM. Last comp tested at 180psi cyl 1-5 and 160psi cyl 6 (typical to most RB25s). The motor was healthy and running well when uninstalled, I decided to shoot for more power than I would have wanted to run through the stock RB and simply had more faith in building a JZ for the job. Complete motor from rockers to sump less electrics (coils injectors cas etc) manifolds can be supplied if wanted. $1000 pick up in Bankstown. Cheers,

The NA supra will be quicker than the other two, it would also be my pick for reliability and good to mod etc. The R34 is a touch ordinary while the autech you wouldnt want to blow a motor. All up NA RWD sucks to begin with, buy a FWD if your on your P's and forget about your dream of becoming a hektic drifter for now.

if you keep the Neo head, you will be able to keep all Neo loom etc, so there will be no issue with your vipec. read the RB30s on this site and see what kind of work is involved in getting it working properly, be it myself I would definitely be going the 30 right now. Bare in mind you are going to want a MUCH bigger turbo once its in. GL

Sold for $320 to a good bloke. Cheers,