GTScotT

it gets the steering position from a sensor behind the wheel. ive never pulled the wheel off but ive read it and been told a few times lol

thats not a bad looking fake, and the size sounds promising GL

being a minor noise if it were a bearing i would be hoping to find its missing abit of white meat but nothing too major. in which case id be willing to take the punt on a new set of bearings. my comment did leave enough to the imagination to assume if he found the bearing had marked the crank he obviously wouldnt chuck in a new set of bearings. and your right, "it's not always as easy as just throwing in a new set and away you go." whats the worst that could happen anyway? need to redo it properly? heaven forbid.... and im fairly sure a bearing doesnt take long to hit 100 degrees and open up that microscopic unit before it can overcome whatever deformity it has formed and allow decent oil flow. but as stated, im only speculating and in doing so im thinking in extremes rather than hopes. but hey im no mechanic, i actually know realistically nothing about engines. yet I agree with you on the waterpump. If that hasnt been done id do that next along with an inspection of the bearings. for the waterpump id let the thing sit dead cold overnight and take off all the aux belts (altenator AC waterpump) then start the thing for a SHORT period to see if it will make the noise. No longer than say 30 seconds tho..

Ull need to drop the crank to get the piston out. As for the sumps, AFAIK they are interchangable. GL

Dont do it, I had a set catch on fire when I needed them most.... Seriously, get a set of ferodo formula (DS2000) instead.... rotor friendly and work significantly better.

you think its a shit idea? care to explain?

being dependant on temperature i would point the finger at an internal component of the motor. what I would so is, I would invest in a torque wrench and drop the sump and check the condition of your big end bearings one at a time. I rekon you will find one is minorly eaten away.. and once at opperating temperature the bearing expands ever so slightly and closes the gap enough for the oil to shut it up. Only speculating really... checking the bearings is as cheap as buying a tool you really should have anyway and plus you get to have a good look at the condition of the bottom end anyway... seeing as the sound is so minor, IF it is a bearing thats slightly worn.. a new set of nissan bearings for around 100 bucks will see your motor back to full health and no noise. obviously if it is a bearing, being so slight it wouldnt have damaged the crank (we hope) BUT leaving it could create bigger issues if you ever had an oil or temperature related stuff up when giving it a hard time. better safe than sorry, id atleast check

someone want to go a little further into detail? could be a very usefull thread if how removing squish pads effects CR was added in somewhere. IE the squish pad is X and removing makes the head sit closer/further to/from the block thus giving higher/lower CR. as people like me would like to know more about the little terms they have heard without making new pointless threads. Thanks!

or be like me and so a DET conversion on an nx coupe. was on my Ps and did the wiggly pinky at a cop speeding pointlessly in a school zone. he did a u turn then overtook 2 cars on the wrong side of the road to pull me over, ofcoarse speeding and still in the school zone. ive never heard that kind of huffing and puffing and gotten such a telling off... then when he was done he said so you wanna be a smart ass? wheres your engineers certificate for your Muffler huh? I said I dont need one.. See pic attached. I could easily have made a car like that undetectably turbo, they would need to have a REAL good look, and still have the spare parts lying around to do so... GG i miss my NXR If you must, turbo the skyline, then make all the piping run through a faux airbox and a well hidden and boxed in sidemount IC. and get someone to fab you a giant heatsheild for the turbo. all easily doable.

GTScotT's R32 had single pistons on it, it was a factory turbo too and 5 stud. (im not GTScotT) also had rear brakes that we just couldnt match to anything, pads off some rarity model silvia and 5 stud rotors... go figure... for conversion use the hard and soft line from the caliper right up to where it meets the chassis rail. the outlet on the chassis rail is the same yet AFAIK the single pots use a one peice rubber line, so you will need the complete 4 pot line caliper to rail.

lol they come higher than that, 60 sumthen on the back of my 928.. 11" wide tho i believe but please, PLEASE, PLEEEAASE dont get tempe specials lol... if you must go cheap atleast lenso's.. but not another skyline with vaults or gestaults.. please ill vomit... yet the tempe comments would hardly make any sense to you.. being in NZ at the moment and owning a LHD evo i doubt you know anything about tempetyres.. perhaps for the better lol

horses for courses. this car will be driven far from conservative, my last evo never saw the track and had to run no less than +50 to "putt around" on the street. +43s were scrub a dub dub! needless to say when im allowed to drive again in 2019 my "conservative offsets" shouldnt give me that problem yet should keep me scrub free on my track duties till then On topic, if your going to track your skyline or even drive it hard and want to run decent tyres i probably wouldnt venture out of the 30 range in the back GL

ull be lucky to save a single kilo in doing it. u sure u want to give away the luxury of pressing a button for the sake of a kilo? lol start walking to work and lose 10kg, sure to add 50kw to the wheels JK lol

id be inclined to say they will, yet will muck up your hicas. what a good excuse to lock hicas, for a momo stagea wheel hope this helps

mine are, 17x8+36 front and x9+38 rears the car is still at the stock height and near nothing camber.. im planning to run this thing with 245/45s in the back and 225/45 or 235/45 up the front currently has 215/45 up front and 245/40 on the rear but only because i have too lol am also planning to give it close to 2 deg camber all round once its got the suspension done and am anticipating no scrub. Hope this helps

cant wait to see the 400r+diffuser combo, im itching for a diffuser on mine!

man those little turbo timers are handy! they arent accurate but atleast you know when your leaning out good to see you fixed it mate

i think he means the block rather than a complete motor. I dont actually know the difference Im sorry so I cant answer your question, just chimed in to make sure ppl get ur point. I would take a stab and say that the DE wont have all the correct oil and water feeds BUT I have known certain types of motor to have the oil and water feeds available on both DE and DET, yet the sump return to usually be blocked or missing... could someone confirm?

not the first time.. a mate was given back his car with no actual dyno sheet... "about 200" they said. tuned by the owner himself... admitedly tho it did drive good and make over 200 on a ISMR dyno day lol on topic, I would definately consult CRD before proceeding.. if they know youve tampered with it they may call your fault, which is what I would personally expect.. Play dumb and take it back with a blank face and a question mark, that way they try to work out something they should have when they actually tuned the car (and dont hit you with another bill). my 2c

key words: volume and pressure. two different units of measurement, and so begins your turbo saga .

Started with a 85 magna, then moved to a NXR which i later turbod, then to an evo 4 and now my R33 gtst I think having the magna as a first car was actually really good despite it being an old heap... trying to drive it fast was a challenge at best which seems to have paid off later down the track.. the better my cars the better I drove them (atleast in my opinion anyway). Meanwhile people who had used the excuse "ill come twisties when i get my new car" still seem to be making excuses, new cars and all. IMO any true enthusiast should start low, NA and slow. Do that for a couple of years and reap the benefits when you move up. Plus, you dont need to go through the pain of crashing and destroying your good car (if your one of them people that dont crash, you seriously arent trying hard enough) My 2c and voted.

lol it wont drive with just a pod whacekd on at the plenum... will hardly idle at best. and blocking the exhaust after removing the turbo............................... dot dot dot........ wheres the exhaust meant to get out? lol, No. dont do that. +1 get someone to drive it home

Lock, lock, lock, lock, and cut the light wire!!1 That is all. P.S. check PS oil level (longshot)

next time you need pads take your rotors down to your local brake place, try find a place that isnt a major dealer like midas or some crap like that.... find an actual brake and clutch dealer who deals more with trade rather than retail. give them the rotors for a machine and let them decide if they are beyond the minimum thickness or not, also let them sell you a set of replacement rotors, seriously shouldnt be a grand worth of rotors... not even half that. trade price earlier this year i got a set of RDA slotted rotors for my evo at 200 a pair, i believe RRP was another 100 ontop. Plus, you cant need 4 bloody rotors... atleast one pair front or rear will have another machines life in them.... as for the squeeling, check ur sqeal shims as stated already or just leave it as your brakes still have alot of meat. if your shims are there and it bothers you that much do a machine and buy a better quality pad IE ferodo (i hate bendix with a passion) GL

thats a big volume of air your pushing there.... definitely sounds ignition related.... checked spark plugs? may need to gap down OR run a colder plug rating.. like an 8 or 9, unless youve already done so. try gap to 0.6 and see how you go, GL