GTScotT

personally i dont think the profec or blitz are up to the challenge of 2 x 3037 but i totally agree with STATUS, the HKS has no hope.. dont get me started on HKS seeing as 2 x 3037 isnt exactly backyard hiflow material, dont go cheap on the controller. i believe turbosmart make an EBOOST 2 capable of 60psi? have seen one run an evo with its 15yo 8 psi actuator at 27psi flat to redline. thats saying something.

3 seconds is about all you need for it to injest something once started, so in hindsight 2000km was quite a while. yet thats not saying anything about you, its merely a mistake, clearly not on your behalf. as stated if they seem to be structurally solid and are marked rather than cracked they may last, yet thats your call

that does look like welding dag, and coming from the bovs pipe would be the only way it could come from. high pressure from the bovs blowing it thru that way, otherwise it would have never made it to the AFM i smell compo

the exhaust housings have different flanges, so its not interchangeable.

have you contacted hypergear? he may be able to replace the dusted wheels for a better price, he seems to be that way. im guessing that metal is either lodged somewhere int he intercooler or injested by the motor.. yet if on a budget if look at removing and cleaning everything and perhaps running with the turbos as is, as im sure you have been already for quite some time.. dont miss out on superlap... but make sure you flush the entire system out before you go any further.. i dont see the harm in using that turbo for now, provided its solid

out of interest, say justjap discontinued these, are there an OEM pad and rotor that match these? i was under the impression the G4s matched some form of ford pads but have no idea about the rotors. am keen to know as ive heard these are actually an excellent kit for the price.

isnt that a fairly special turbo? shame its too big for the RB

Nismoid........ you are going to make me cry.......... after finding my ecu was blown i was considering ditching VCT for an R32 ecu for cheaper/easier tuning.. its a whole new can of worms for me now... ill have to compare VCT setups to non VCT camed setups and go from there.. probably a relevant study to that of the neo vs 26 head.. alot of cams i see say non VCT where as others dont specify, and that doesnt necessarily give me confidence to think they will be effective with VCT. big, BIG can of worms...

Elaborate?

im no guru, but theres no way its not possible. afaik it would be a straight swap, yet obviously the accesories to match the manifolds etc would need to be changed.. but the head itself should and will bolt on. as a simple reference to this sort of thing, what i normally do is look at what youve already listed above... you know 25 heads go on 30s, you know 26 heads go on 30s... reference the two and decide for yourself. obviously you may have some sort of issue with an oil gallery for the VCT hope ive shon light on the right path for you

just imagine the injectors are physically bigger. they work off the same voltage as your old ones so all that changes is pulse timing and width. so if you have gone from say 500s to 1000s, at the exact same tune state they will literally run twice as rich. the most common mistake i see with injectors is people thinking that they could just put a bigger set and not need to do anything else, that and adding an FPR can fix anything. its all a learning experience, your doing well mate just spend some time retuning em and it will all add to your experience.

+1 for oil and stuff like WD on parts when you started it. you will really need to drive it before you can be sure... just double check your work for anything thats not right and test drive.

agreed, rb25 flows alot better.. much better place to start. just swap out and go from there get a hicomp like disco suggested and boost it up baby

angus cows are white. get it right. LMAO just kidding man, me and a mate were the laughing stock of lismore when we thought angus was some sort of brand lol and right on for the comment GT if it werent for anti hoon media and the well organized gang often referred to as the police this country would be f*cking perfect.

whats the difference between 1st gen and VVT models? manifolds not interchangable? also, is this for a twin setup or single? more info

as long as its a 2 wire ull be fine, GL

never mind im blind and have a laggy connection tonight yet cant say ive ever seen a genuine walbro fail, hell not even a fake. jump on evo oz, many all wheel 300+kw monsters there, and best believe it takes alot of juice to get a 4cyl up that high. yet dont get too offended when you realize how easily they do it

from a panel beater, no. just no.

you can never have enough headroom, that is until they become harder to tune.. then its useless. in this case i have heard that the red nismo 740s are better to tune than the 555s. that being the SR RB specific red nismo items, not 740s in general. yet yes, 555s will be enough but for the same price i know i wouldnt think twice.

anything is possible +1 to custom pipes

you can use just about any solenoid. FYI the solenoid used in the profec is the same as that of the AVCR, and is made by neither apexi or greddy. Sorry tho, i dont know who does manufacture them. yet i can tell you its simply a positive and negative connection to a solenoid, thus it wont be hard to find a suitable 2 wire replacement. GL

lol thanks mate, lucky for that mut (whose name is Mutley) a mate with a spare RB26 ecu let me chance it in there, got it started and back out of the way of the dog... bastard thing was watching me like a hawk all day, wanted to see over the fence like crazy i tell you.... neighbors were doing lamb on the bbq for aus day....... i bet if i went inside for longer than 2 minutes it would have been on the roof staring over the fence. but hell that was some mad smelling lamb lol

it would have had a custom manifold, possibly a high mount thats why the dumps like that

what have you highlighted there good sir? if you take your time and trace back the stock vacum hoses, and find one side of the stock solenoid to come from a manifold or intercooler pipe source, and the other side to lead to the actuators on the turbos with NOTHING inbetween. Then yes, replace it with your aftermarket solenoid and go for gold. yet often on stock cars there are a few ways they do it, and have a bleeder rather than an actual solenoid. so check whats going on first.

get that dump cut and shut and tinker with the lines+- clock the housings. i want to see what that magic mystery turbo can do