GTScotT

i guess the question is really how hard are you going to drive it? the occasional squirt in theory shouldnt kill it.... the ceramic turbos die from heat not from boost. more boost is higher combustion temps meaning the ceramic wheel gets a hell of alot hotter which expands like crazy as it meant to and kamikazes itself against the housing. so really if you only like to give it a little squirt here and there u should be fine, but if u like going on twisty runs you can expect it to pop. as for track work, goodbye turbo.

lol enough KG jokes hes talking about torque

great build mate, will be great to see how the CA goes

Lithium, mate, you are an absolute LEGEND. That video is an absolute milestone in the search for confidence on the RB25 and GT30 front. I cant say thinks enough for posting that up. The car pulls notably hard from low revs and you can hear that if driven lightly it would be very easy to live with. Once again mate you are an all out champ for doing this, that video demonstrates the base expectations one should have for such a setup. P.S. your car is an animal! Legend

evos 1 - 3 then 4 - 6 and 7 - 9 respectivelly are all the same car with basic revisions, 7 being the last homologation special, 8 and 9 have all the addition safety and luxury features plus a 60L tanks as apposed to 40. just to clear it up if your ever interested disco lol. Realistically, the evo was not livable around town.. not for the average trigger happy hoon anyway. It just had you sitting on the edge of your seat all the time with it wanting to leap forward at the itch of the throttle. Further to this I basically gave the evo away to pay for expenses and had just about no change left over.. so as much as it was a negative experience for me, it really is a sore spot that I do miss. In saying this my actual quotation for my how I want my skyline to end is, to have a decent off boost zone up to 4k on light throttle yet to pull hard from 3ish k (not full boost just pulling well) and to have as much kick in the pants as I can sanely get to the ground. more and more this seems like its going to be a harder and harder task to achieve, yet after alot of thinking I decided on the skyline and managed to find one in mint condition with a suspected engine fault. In the end it was simply a faulty immobilizer and the car was mine for peanuts.. Thus im commited to building the skyline and not looking back yet I think that the results im chasing are something alot of people would want, just arent sure how to get it. And here we are

I totally know where your coming from.. its what is eating at me. Yet you shouldnt underestimate the evos rev range, power came on strong before 3000 and wouldnt hesitate to rev to 8. Mine in the the trim as described had roughly 180 all wheel kw @ 5000rpm... its a crying shame. Only thing with the 2835 pro S is, id have to buy it in a Garrett equivalent and dont quite have the faith it will pull the numbers.... as idiotic as it is, i will be disappointed if it rolls out any less than 270rwkw.. it is the target number I have set... which is idiotic of me as im a chronic preacher of driver over dyno... Yet that faces me with the question.. will a 3071 be all that jazz in midrange and torque over the 3076 in an evo kind of way or is it going to come into the issue you have mentioned above, where I wont be able to put the power to the ground regardless and am better off having something that winds up with the revs rather than all at once. as per usual, I am at a loss.

Thats an awesome idea mate, really appriciate the offer. Basically what im most concerned about is my corner exit speed. generally speaking on a twisty run with a sign post of 45 ill be sitting somewhere over 100 where i will then feed the power on in 4th gear for a blinding exit. in the evo if i used the engines rotating momentum to my advantage, with rather ginger throttle i could take the entier 45 bend at close to 150 at top rpm in 3rd. Alternatively I would use 4ths epic torque to pull me through from a slightly lower speed (too unstable at 150 in 4th) and pull me out to a similar speed. for reference the my evo was a IV with a TBE, no other mods, torque was so good that I would not need to downshift to pullaway from a friends 200+rwkw sr20det S13 on a rolling start. 3rd gear at 50 for me and him in 2nd, no chance. 70km for me id be in 4th him in 2nd or 3rd still no good... really need to get that torque back and not defy the point of having a 6cyl with small final outputs. This could be an interesting thing for all to witness, there are 3 main pulls id want to see if possible. firstly a low speed (20 or 30kmh) flat stick pull in 2nd. Secondly a 50kmh pull in 3rd, squeeze the lemon with the throttle and come on gradually, just to see how it comes on boost, and finally a similar run in 4th gear yet of a higher speed, say 80kmh and a firm yet not WOT squeeze. Hopefully this sort of evidence will help everyone in deciding if this turbo is for them And also if you could post up a quick run down of your cars mods yet with exact turbo specs (only if thats not asking too much ofcoarse hehe) Thanks, JD

I wonder just how much more urgent the boost delivery will be on the 52T vs the 56T.. and how much it will hold back outright power if at all. through all my reading I am convinced that the 3076 56T .82 is the way to go for me but cannot find enough info on how it comes on boost.. which is why im considering the 52T option instead.. trying to cover myself for offboost twisty run faux pas.. coming from an evo to a skyline its a worry.. ARGH

I hate to dig up an age old thread, yet Mafia never did end up updating us with info on what turbo was used for 314rwkw? was it the original one making 240rwkw a few pages earlier? After weeks and weeks of GT30 reading im KEEN AS MUSTARD to know just what the final changes were and how it changed the cars character.

knock knock whos there?! and isnt 10psi and 15:1AFR at 3250rpm bad mmkay? thats just asking for EGT issues IMO...

agreed, mitsu is factory tunable. evo 7 and up needs no modification PERIOD to be tuned. plug in and go. earlier models require a 7+ ecu and a minor re-pin, even the earlier models with the different motor. no less than excellent. Yet I wonder, what would happen if you dropped the AFR to something a little richer and then tried to add the timing. Considered this?

R34 OP6 hiflow ull get the 250 and it will be about as responsive as you can get. problem solved lol

wouldnt you rather the 6 blade 3076 over the 3071? from what ive been seeing it should be superior in spool and power? im keen to hear experienced opinions, ive been reading for weeks on end and still havent formed a solid opinion.

enjor mah serf nothing special but thought id add my 2c

Sorry but im not sure about changing between modes on the E01.. yet as for your question there, having the gain up too high will get you inconsistant results. try to make things accurate rather than abit more of this etc.. so get your set to where it needs to be to hit your boost and then only dial in enough gain till it wants to spike and back it off a touch from there. what you want is a smooth delivery yet obviously as quick as possible. as an example if you have your gain up too high and you hit the boost controls set limiter it will try to cut the boost back down meaning a sudden loss in power which will result in less torque thereafter and less power up top in that gear. try get it as accurate as you can to the max gain on that set level without ANY spike at all lower is always better GL

the greddy ebcs generally have 3 values to adjust. Set, Gain and Set gain. Set is the boost pressure you want to run, as youve mentioned. Gain is how it cycles the solenoid in order to maintain boost and Set gain is at what boost level to begin opperating the solenoid. If your Set gain is set too high you will spike BUT if its too low it will be harder to reach your target boost. How I normally tune these things is drop the gain down to its minimum value (i think its 10?) and adjust my Set gain to 1 - 2 psi before my target boost. I then dial in the Set to match this and keep turning the Set up until I reach my target boost. Boost will probably tail off in the higher RPM so what you need to do then is up the Gain untill it begins to spike, and back it off an increment at a time till it stops spiking. Do it in 4th gear at a high load point that spools fairly quick tho, to get ur spike right. If you dont end up holding the boost till redline what you can do is use the warning function to drop your boost when you overboost by 1 or 2 psi and run a higher gain to help keep the boost up in the higher rev range. GL, I hope this was helpful.

Sorry guys shifter is no longer available, long gone

dont drive it till its fixed. you want to be certain. RRR remove recheck refit.

yeah no point then.. shoot down to repco for some +50s lol

loosen your housing then bolt it up finger tight to the manifold and clock it to the correct position. then tighten 1 of the housing bolts so it doesnt move and remove the turbo to tighten the rest of the housing bolts. do it that way so you make sure you get it done right.

I got mine from repco and they are available in all the different globe types, h4 h1 etc.. will set you back $50 tho yet agree on the S3 GTR headlights.. just not sure if they fit up or need to change pannels? plus they are bloody exxy haha

is this a single sided kit or one of the cross over the radiator ones for the R33 gtst?

someone else hit the right note.. buy a skyline later down the track and drive something else for now. vtec is good mmmkay. no really it is..

personally, id be wary.. id be worried about stuffing up the angle at which i install the lenses.. the way the projector lense works is it focuses the broad light given off by the HID globe to a specific angle and direction... obviously you can see where you can easily go wrong. without the lense the HIDs are horrible.. super bright but hardly lights up the road. ive only been in one car with a good set of HIDs to be honnest.. my mate has a JDM evo 8 with HIDs.. They were marginally better than my narva +50 globes i was running in my evo 4. highbeam was no better, and i think i would have rathered the globes anyway... those narva +50 globes are seriously something to consider before butchering your headlights... and if thats not enough try a new relay for your globes that always works well

r u sure 33GTRs have rear pods? why havent i found this info elsewhere! lol im wanting a little bit of an extension at the back too.. will be interesting to see what this thread comes up with..