GTScotT

Are you tired of waiting for your stock ceramic wheeled turbo to die? Do you want that peice of ceramic wheel in you cat now? tired of seeing other peoples engine failure threads and want one yourself? need an excuse for a turbo upgrade? or just plain love destroying things? if you answered yes to any of the above then you need 8 1n4004 diodes and a boost tap. so how do you it you ask? simple, install the boost tap, then for the diodes if you strip back the wiring on the afm, you will notice 4 wires( series 1 r33 gtst and r32 gtst) there colours are Black,black/silver,White,black/white what you do is conect the diodes anode to cathode in series then the anode end of the chain goes to the black wire on the afm plug, and the cathode end goes to the white wire. this will stop the ecu going into RnR mode, now to kill the turbo, increading boost past 1.3 bar (r32 with stock r33 turbo) will still cut badly as the fuel system will be more than maxxed out, this will definatly kill the turbo and motor. however, if you put the boost to 1.2 bar, with a fresh pump and working fuel pressure reg, this will max out the injectors and give you air fuel ratios of about 16:1 up high in the rev range, so no rich and retard, just lots of boost, not much fuel and a fair ammount of pinging. Perfect recipy for a dead motor and tubo, all for the cost of 80c worth of diodes and some lecy tape, as most of you will already have a boost tap. will be trying a rising rate reg and higher fuel pressure to see if i can work around the stupidly high air fuel ratios. this rb20 hates me...yet it what it deserves for burning a valve before i got it, i am in no way responsible for any damage you do to your car following these instructions. this is a cheap way to get around the rich and retard cut of exciding the max air flow limit set by the ecu, with a stock fuel pump and reg ect it is very dangerous as i have pointed out and will, not might, yet will kill your motor, this is ment for people who know the risks and have increased fuel pressure or somethign to compensate for the extra boost.

as the cars are getting pretty old now the diff is proberly warn, mine leaves 2 nice marks everywhere i try. and yeah regardless of how far away from civilization you go, unless its private property watch out cause police also go there to find people who they can book as for your options, you could possible rebuild your stock diff, or you could go to an aftermarket diff, or even find a cheap r32 gtr diff 2nd hand

i know my rb20 comment made me look stupid yet it wasnt seious, on a serious note however have you considered an rb30, still looks stock so popo dont notice, depending on the turbo can keep you current exhuast and intercooler, retune the power fc you have and keep your radiator, would take more money to get it to 8000 revs though, yet a 500cc increase you will notice more than just 100cc

rb20s are cheap and strong

if u realy dont know what your looking at then prehaps a hammer is the last tool to consider using

ok so what am i looking at to get both the braided line and the k750 pads for a r32 gtst? 4 piston front twin piston rear

what condition are the front discs in, and are the above the minimum machining size? and any idea of postage to sydney ( again just the fronts)? thanks scott

pull the fuse from the airbags to and there should be a yellow plug under the dash just the one wire yet bright yellow on all cars equipt with airbags to disconnect before changing them

well when you look at its its about 30ish x 8 for the fittings for the water and oil lines, then the lines are around 60 per meter depending on size, then there is any other fittings like bends and such, and if its all speedflow then the adapters for the thread to speedflow. also, this guy can help with braided lines ect, GT MOTORSPORT, 17 yalgar road kirrawee (the dead end street like 3 factorys up from just jap), 02 95214389

So the pads arnt avalible for the r32 gtst with the 4 piston front twin piston rear yet the lines are?

having 2 blow off valves that are diffrent might do somethign funny, just put the stock one back on and leave it like that, no need for the pshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhht everywhere u go

id be trying to use a stock ecu and seeing what it reads and then another afm, as yeah, i just had a look and my afm isnt that high on a r33 turbo on a bar on a rb20, and if thats lower, then maybee ure ecu is tuned stupidly or the afm is faulty and thats whats casuing the massive afm duty cycle

not a boost cut as such, it has a air flow cut, mine on the stock turbo would cut at about a bar, less on cold nights also apparently stock turbo doesnt like being boosted much though.

is the intake manifold off a rb25 with vct?

are the 4x discs you have for the twin piston rear 4 piston fronts, or the single piston calipers?

probley just wear and tear on the diff, my old corolla did this to. changed the oil recently?

nah, i got one of these controllers and put it in my ke70 corolla and then beat a lambo

a SAFC2 is what is known as a piggyback ecu, it modifies the signals the motor gives the stock ecu so the stock ecu will add more or less fuel, it can be very usefull if fuel is the only thing you need to fine tune. not a skyline yet good info regardless http://members.cox.net/precisionimage/prec...nimage/SAFC.htm

im going with powerstearing fluid is low (the one behind the airbox, as my car has the exact same problem (small leak in one of the hoses that im changing next week) gets longer and longer for the light to go off until i top it up. when my battery is low the hicas light pulses and stearing wheels jerks around

my dash is out aswell, using a consult (group buy lcd consult thing) shows my rpm lower than the dash, yet the same as my automotive multimeter. there old cars now, as stated above the mechanicals in them wear out.

went and picked mine up today, and it is an awesome item, works great, looks great, simple to use. thanks heaps

if you still have the rb25 bottem end, is it out of an r33 or r32?

think about it like this, you have fuel leaking out of a pressurised source into a hot engine bay. so a highly flameable material next to a whole heap of heat, and if it leaks a lil more and has a bit of a spray instead, and it gets on the exhaust then yeah, big trouble if you have a car problem related to one of these FUEL BRAKES SUSPENTION then get it fixed immeditatly

i cut the top of a coke bottle, so it had some more thicker plastic to clamp into with the still on, didnt have any stalling issues, just got sick of the car nose diving down when i slightly changed throttle positions so i put the stock one back on and im loving it +1 stock bov

an exhuast system is class as a preformance upgrade, and increases power a million times over what a pod will, my car actauly loses power with a pod filter.