GTScotT

im sure people will be itching to shoot me down, yet ive got an RB30 in the garage ive basically abandoned as i doubt it will really give all THAT much more torque. Sure enough the power will jump 30 odd KW yet spool characteristics are seemingly VERY similar from what ive seen. and yes yes HPI expensive it manifold is

you are lieink now go and read.

havent washed the engine bay lately have you? take the coils out and see if the spark plugs have water around them OR if they are cracked or damaged.

in my case the catch can was only connected wrong for a total of 30 seconds, and the car would drop its sump out the exhaust from milperra to ramsgate it was spewing out oil so bad... irreversable damage to the seals. this could be the case here, yet yes agreed with hypergear, trial and error try fix whats blocking up if there is and go from there.

how did you install the catch can? once had a perfectly good turbo shit a seal because a catch can got installed with no breather, 2 outlets on the rockers to 2 inlets on the catch can and no breather anywhere lol... insta-goodbye T28BB was there a way for your catch can setup to breathe properly? or have you made a similar faux pas

do some reading mate, never ending information regarding turbo choices. ull be at it for weeks. hypergear do a good hiflow for about 1k, should look into that. only increases lag by a few hundred RPM and gives good results in power, lots of torque and about 230rwkw, plus alot stronger. also, keep in mind changing injectors is not as simple as that, you will need to remap the ecu.

ahh i see, interesting then. in that case perhaps a dry joint somewhere. try wire in whole new relay triggered off the original. new wiring from pump to new relay and new relay triggered off old pump. should fix the problem for sure

gunmetal to set off the silver car and be a lil different

cutting it will make it stiffer, less coils makes a higher spring rate... yet perhaps its too long :S i dont understand tho, the title says TIAL 50mm copy, which makes me think you mean a external WG, but your talking about a bov? More info is required, and explain what is not working properly

i knew that one would spark something, yet being honest.. its not a typo.. I have my reasons, and you have my msn LOL edit for PM-R33 : yes, i am building a street/circuit car dependent on mid range power on a standard RB25.. i do not plan to develop my motor OK to clarify, the setup im looking at will have roughly 200rwkw @ 4krpm, that is power i can use.

plugs FOR SURE heat range 7 no less mate, easy sorted and a gun of a car by the sounds of it

sounds like the relay is shot and cant withstand the current draw. wire in a new relay triggered off the stock relay and see if that works. new relay should get power direct from 12v not old relay. also may want to try just swap in a mates stock relay to see if that works, if you have any R33 mates that is lol (if your in bankstown i could even let you try mine)

definitely stuck on heat then mate, even with the ambient sensor unpluged you should be able to turn it back down each time you drive. ull have to go thru the whole system and check everything, heater tap, plugs etc

detonation from overboost wouldnt break a spark plug.. they break either from force, or from excessive heat then force. in other words you smash them with a tool or something, which is alot easier to do when theyve been baked.

sorry if i wasnt clear, as stated above it allows air to bypass the throttle body to idle up the motor without additional throttle. it is needed for the car to run smoothely on cold start. yet the part which seems to have confused you is that some motors have a coolant line connected to it also, to warm it up, which IMO is not necessary. BUT the valve itself is. GL

that ones for cold start idle up. i think its called the IACV. it basically just bypasses the throttle body to idle up when the motors cold. its also usually connected to something with coolant flow to warm the air up. yet on alot of SRs ive fiddles with ive removed the coolant related parts to eliminate hoses and havent had a problem yet. tho if the RB26 uses one of these make sure you put one on lol, the RB25 one should be identical they look the same on about 10 different motors ive seen. GL

LMGT2 or 3 FTW but only coz iv got em lol would go TE37 if i woke up to a pile of cash

out of what youve listed: 3071 wont do it, but will spool quickest 3076 .63 will hold you back, .82 will be most responsive while getting you the power you want but not a c*nt hair more 35r wouldnt be that far off spool wise but would have alot more headroom for later, especially if you plan to build the motor im no expert but have been doing alot of reading of these exact turbos and more for my RB25. in the end im going for a 250kw single that IMO will be alot faster than a 300rwkw 3076. shower of shit compared to pissing in the wind is the difference between the two i am anticipating. yet i honnestly have to say, i rekon the GTSS would be the better option.... put them on once and do it right and dust your hands of it. get a set of mild cams and dial em up and a proper tune and ull be laughing, ull get the power and the spool with alot of area under the curve. the best thing about the GTSS: you already have them. Hopefully this has directly answered your question, and now we shall let the shit fight continue lol backyarder pro vs telemarketing tuners GO GO GO!! ENEMY UAV ONLINE!!!!! (please note i have no intention to offend anyone, only having a laugh)

theoretically ud go larger as its more efficient and you could get extra power for the same spool.. yet thats theoretically lol. theory vs actual results can often be negligible yet if the manifold was done right with a split pulse you could potentially get a great deal out of it.

climate control is stuck on heat, common issue. to test see if ur aircon works properly.. or atleast try get it to blow cold air thru it then see if it gets hot.

then see what the two look like against eachother on road lol, ull wonder what that extra 50kw is actually doing... well i did

if i had cash id put my car up as a test bed for the new 2IU setup, yet need to many supporting mods to jump so soon. Cant wait to see the results either way

so if you have the RB specific HKS GTRS kit can you confirm what AR the T3 rear housing is? not that i dont trust HKS but id be a lil if its a .63 yet from what ive seen its such a gun turbo to have onroad.... guaranteed 250rwkw and massive area under the curve... excellent power delivery too.. Ooooh so tempting

+1 good topic from what i know (general knowledge) a smaller duration intake cam will result in faster spool, so basically running say the 272 exhaust cam and a 264 intake, your low end spool characteristics will resemble that of the 264 combo whilst your top end power will resemble that of the 272 combo.. or there abouts in a roundabout way.. as for specific to RB i have NO idea and am keen to learn

lol funny how many people have actually had their ones last.... murphy being my best friend i cant say id have the balls lol... im scared of taking mine to wakefield on stock boost.... praying it wont shit itself. yet as stated, the "will it die today" question will be looming above your head every time you drive it so i wouldnt bother.