GTScotT

probley means Rackend, call nissan and give the the vin number of your car and they should be able to quote you, yet i would try some suspention places first to see if they sell them aftermarket

if fuel keeps fixing it it might be the fuel pump dieing

my 32 has brakes that are realy messed up, its all factory gear as far as i can tell, its a 5 stud factory gtst yet it has single piston brakes, the pads for the front are off a silvia, the front rotors are off a diffrent silvia, the rear pads are from another silvia again, all non skyline, and then the rear rotors are off a skyline, that you cant actualy buy the rear rotors anywhere anymore, rda was the only place to make them then they discontinued them, so im upgrading the 4 piston front 2 piston rear breaks

is the spark a good spark or just a spark, as if the coils are worn or the harness is stuffed they will still spark yet not properly, also have you checked the timing?

if its only one side then its not the rack he needs its just the tie rod so the lockbar would just be a waste of money for him, if he wants a lockbar later then he can get one then yet its not needed now

another k&n oiled panel filter here for a bit under a year, no problems at all

umm my motor isnt complete or anywhere near being finished at the moment, yet im using a rb25det vct head and planing on using rb20 cams to not use the vct, i modified the plug at the end of the oil galery in the head to feed oil right to the end of the galerey so it comes out the cam like its ment to then closed one of the end cam galerys/ holes and restricted the other so its the same size as the other then welded up the vct feed at the bottom of the head and will just use a vct soliniod with no wiring to finish it off. however, the water jacket when the 30 block and 25 head meet had like half a mill or so, very very tiny before the side of the block so i welded and reshaped that to be more like the standard 30 one, i would of thought this was nessasary as its realy to close to the edge otherwise.

my car does it all the time its overfueling while driving spirtitadle that does it

maybee the tune is out, or the maf might be faulty both of them can cause a rought idle, timing can cause huge issues aswell

Hey, one of my stock 15" has a buckle in it that is starting to annoy me as its sending a bad vibration threw my car, just wondering if anyone has one or even a set of these wheels lying around for sale, dont care about tires as mine have new ones on them, there the realy ugly stock alloy 5 stud rim, they wont clear the 4 piston breaks and look nothign like th 16" gtst rims that look kind of like the gtr ones thanks scott

how much and where are you located, thanks

my r32 split dump does it to, though its got a r33 turbo, on my rb20 1st gear will boost to 14psi with the stock 33 5psi actuator from the flap hitting the inside,

both my half cut and my car were stock rb20det's with single piston brakes, r32 gtst's

if your last motor died from a spun bearing to, then there is a massive chance, as in its most likly, that your stock crank and block had some material stripped off it, so if this wasnt machined then that can kill the new motor, and then on top of this, when it was machine to fix it, or if it had been done in the past, then the clearances will be diffrent , so the stock numbers on the crank and block will be wrong, as said above, use plasti gauge to cheak them when you assemble a motor, you put a strip of this stuff sort of similar to blue tack across the crank, then tourqe the cap down, then remove the cap, and there is a gauge on the plasti gauge pack that shows the clearance size based on how far the pastigauge spred.

where can i get a EE version of the 27c256 chip? been looking and cant find any, sick of uv erasing

tried adjusting it, i know it sounds stupid, yet theres a way to do that properly to, and even use a consult to goto the set idle mode

have you mesured the voltage on the afm while cranking to make sure its not the afm besides cleaning it, because if its stuffed and mesuring like 3 or 4 volts then its going to be adding wayyy to much fuel to start

ive changed gearboxes and clutches a few times, in the mud in my driveway aftermidnight after finishing work late in the rain....love driving to much to waste time getting in working after i break something, even done an all night engine convertion on a cressida in my poorly lit driveway. all good fun when the job is compleat, until its finished its hell though

that sounds like a problem, as putting ure foot down to the floor regardless where in a non turbo motor should give 0 vaccume, and on a turbo motor should give 0 vaccume then boost, i just added you on msn so i can ask you about it there instead of in a million posts

my engine compression is 140 140 140 140 0 15, then add some oil to the bores and its all like 160 160 160 160 0 160 i have a big problem, yet ive been giving this motor hell for almost a year now and its kept going

is there a gasket or gasket glue on the turbo outlet flange? does the car goto 0 vaccume when you put ure foot to the floor, as in right away?

hmm giving up so will just retune my ecu when i put the rb30 in, everytime u fix an issue there is a new problem, for instance, rising rate reg to get more fuel ended up working when leaving the base pressure alone, however iginition timing is to advanced for boost that high and pining wont stop even with more fuel and the fmic and the engine not overheating, only fix for that is retard the timing heaps, that makes you lose power everywhere else cheap massive boost mission : Epic Fail

ok a quick update. do not increase base fuel pressure as the ecu learns around this very quickly,i ran 75 psi for the base pressure and within 5 min the car was running normaly again with stupid high af's at high boost,yet the first few min were awesome until it adjusted. the only way i can see to safely get the required fuel up top, although yet to try, is with a 2:1 or 3:1 rising rate reg, and possibly a tap on the reg to let it start increasing fuel pressue above 5 psi so any closed loop cell isnt effected so the ecu wont learn to adjust to the new fuel pressure

the gtr runs the resistors to, you need them 100%

bit of both, only hit that once, lol, for like a few seconds if that, fixing it now. i wouldnt run it at that kind of setting