GTScotT

LMAO

E-flex = flex fuel = varying content... Not only is it hard to come by, but you may tune your car to E80, then fill up next week with E70.. And if you dont have a content sensor hooked up and calibrated you are risking total melt down. Not only this, but the ethanol is an awesome agent to break down oil. Meaning faster service intervals and potential increased wear on the motor. I'm just not sold at this stage and aren't recommending E-flex on any level anymore. You can however join our WMI thread and have a squeaky steam cleaned engine that you can fill up anywhere, run no risk of melt down with a simple $500 kit ($30 buys a low level light, then switch to low boost) and literally increase the longevity/healthy/safety of your motor while pushing further towards the power threshold of your setup. WIN.

Or while we are waiting for new members to buy in, or for you existing 20g guys to have your setbacks sorted A good thread always has some level of garbage in it, and now we have a water injection thread to watch too! With upcoming results might I add.

They seemed pretty soft on the tuning side of it. I would have wanted to see jet_r31 type results AKA insane. Mine should arrive today, ill unbox it Saturday and if I get time will possibly install. The Snow site recommends an additional solenoid if you are going to boot mount, but the guy from the performance shop I got it at said its just to stop siphoning and not to worry too much unless the nozzle is a lot lower than the bottle (in line). He also said because it will be in the boot and the nozzle at the TB, the hose will probably run through the cabin or under the car, so siphoning wouldn't be an issue. Can anyone with one of these things installed give me an idea? I was going to get Mick to fab me up a 10L boot mount cell, so it would have a fair amount of gravity pushing down on it.

Simple science there mate.. When the water vapor hits the cylinder it will turn to steam, steam takes up a lot more volume than its equivalent in water and as it converts it will obviously increase cylinder pressure as it soaks in the heat. So here's the process: Water quenches heat > turns to steam > steam increases combustion pressure (without the usual downside of added heat for the 'no shit' reason). Static compression is cylinder pressure when cranking (normal comp test), dynamic compression is the effective compression ratio after you take boost/volume/VE/RPM into account (rocket science). That being said, its rocket science 'just add water' edition

ARTZ once your car is finished you should get Stao to back to back his Billet wheel version on his account to see if its worth the extra $100! Would be really valuable data to contribute to the thread.

A quote from a member on the Aquamist forums !!

Thanks Darren was hoping you would add your valuable input. Cant wait to get mine kicking. Am also feeling a lot gamer to try a more exotic turbo with more serious boost levels.

Its OK I don't take offense easily, and I'm far from a racist (even though I enjoy making racial jokes) so its fine. Did anyone take note that Stao has started importing 20gs? I assume hes bringing them in direct from Kamak rather than Kando (they come unbranded). Hes noted he is re balancing them to a tolerance half the figure of original (twice as good) and is selling them at $850 with a Billet compressor wheel. That's pretty cool IMHO.

I better be the only one trolling today Jez I wanna see those results!

I'll let you know when I get my car tuned at Jez's next, wont be long. I'm sure you will enjoy the laugh with me face to face. Just so you understand what happened here: Click me! You see in 'Straaayaaaaa its normal to pick on your annoying friend, and while I dont consider you a 'friend' I also don't really have anything personal against you. Being brutally honest you can get very annoying, big surprise I know... Being the mature 34yo and all. Well Kumar, not all is lost. It's been fun, and I look forward to meeting you.

Don't be so insensitive Jeremy. That was a rough ride for Ron and his Asian mate, teasing him like that will only remind him of the nightmare. Trollololo!

I do agree with this but am committed to having a 'no wmi' setting and a 'balls out' setting. I guess well see how I go

Do you have some kind of identity crisis? Hey by the way, did you ever make it to white castle?

You can set your start point low though, and bleed it on slow. I think it will help the entire boosted part of the graph. Yet you are right, you wont get the 'off boost meat' that I found massive in Micks car

Don't expose my secret.. Vampires never age, OOPS.

Ooooo, personal. Lucky I'm a 25 year old ethnic with no freckles. Maybe that freckle faced kid's Grandparents (read ancestors) got 'thrown off' somewhere around the Philippines and have some thing to do with why your the way you are. Didn't they tell you about great uncle Stuart the bread thief? Apparently they 'loved him long time' ago. Seriously dude, try to see the positive in my criticism. Hurry up and buy the damn turbo.

Would love to see you WMI it on 98 Justin! Would be awesome to compare 98/WMI vs E85!

Sorry, I had to match the authenticity of a Curry/Gook based joke. This post is not a troll

I think my issues were an accumulation of parts and a slight possibility of being overcautious in a few areas. I will really be pushing to have the setup work PERFECT before the WMI gets turned on, I DO NOT use bandaids. My decision to go WMI was built on a balance of raising the motors natural ping resistance (beyond the spastic issues I was having with the old setup), because a 10:1 motor would obviously have a low knock limit. I had the options of dropping comp by means of a HG or rebuild, or trying to flow the head so that it was more efficient and hopefully adding a bigger buffer (sort of like turbo Hondas). The WMI won in the end lol.. Cheapest and least labour intensive and risky from the lot. With your own setup though, have you put the car on the dyno to see if your fuel pump is letting you down? Monitoring fuel pressure and AFRs on the dyno will easily tell you if the pump is letting you down. If its an old pump it could be shagged, but I think a walbro is up to the task of your power level (in principal). Not to say dont get the WMI Id love to see your epic setup even better! (FYI my old plates were GR33DY lol)

Nope, too big.

Yesterday I SMS brainstormed with Jez about my own car. As usual, Jez sent simple responses. IE Kool. Sounds Good. Are you sure? Etc. Typical essay like responses common of the Jez-i. By process of voicing my options I was able to get a brief second opinion and weigh up my options, enabling me to make my own decision. By the afternoon I ordered and paid for my Snow Performance WMI kit. No I did not quickly conjur up the idea, nor did it come from Jez or someone else. I found what options I wanted to consider, talked facts and figures (kw/$$) and made a decision. Rondofj, buy yourself some dignity and click 'commit to buy' on the turbo you want. You have already: thought (hard to believe IMHO)/voiced/planned/gained feedback/decided. Now BE A MEN and spend the TIRTEE FOR FIFTEE. I vote that if Ron does not buy a Kando by the end of the week, we should ban him.

WOW. For such awesome results it is so surprising to see how basic your setup is. I love the fact you did so well with the stock nissan comp cover, rubber intake and stock cooler piping! Those all would hold it back from maximum potential in my eyes, and you did really well! Props to all involved!

Sorry mate I thought I did mention I bought the Stage 2 Boost Cooler kit. Ive ordered 2 kits, one for my car and one for a mates. Mine SR20DE 10:1 CR T28, Mates SR20DE 9.5:1 CR Kando TD05H 18G Looking forward to seeing how much further we can go with the Kando especially Its currents a little knock limited and unable to wind in the boost the turbo actually wants.

Its not adjustable, Stao puts multiple nozzles into the housing instead of the 1.