SteveL

Shaun, I'm glad your happy with your car and I hope any repairs required are minimal and cheap. The reason I'm sceptical about the 60k kms is that I have an 89 GTR as well and my interior is damn near perfect - the driver's seat has no wear in that area, plus my car has no rail damage at all and only one tiny area of surface rust in an unimportant area which was a 5 minute repair job. If your car has truly only done 60k kms, by that standard my car must only have done 40-50k kms.....and I just don't believe it. I'd say mine has anywhere between 100k and 150k kms on it based on it's overall condition (it has a NISMO speedo fitted which indicates 28k kms, plus I got no paperwork, so there's no way of knowing the actual k's). Of course it's possible my seat(s) have been changed, or seat covers were used, but I doubt it (everything 'matches' in terms of interior condition).

First thing you should do is check for air leaks...for example cracked vac hoses connected to the inlet manifold.

clutch sold, prices updated.

Maybe I'm seeing things, but in one photo you've got what appears to be the stock air box, but in another a set of pods The wear on the drivers seat is a bit of a give away to a car that's done a few more than 60,000kms

Oil line uses a totally different arrangement at the turbo attachment end (2 bolt flange, not a banjo). Water line banjo bolt at the turbo is smaller thread diameter as well.

Pretty sure I've got a Z one in the shed....filler is on the opposite side, but should do the same job.

I would tend to explicitly identify the car by reg, VIN and even engine number, but you should make him/her sign a copy for yourself as well, and as I said make sure he/she gives full address and licence details and actually view their licence to make sure everything matches up. It all sounds a bit 'untrusting' and you don't want to get the buyer pissed off, but if they're genuine it shouldn't be a problem for them.

I've actually done it this way a couple of times (a car and a motorcycle) and in one case I got a 'please explain' call from Vicroads. They weren't particularly happy that I hadn't followed 'the rules', but it doesn't seem there's much they can do about it.

Technically, you can't transfer the reg to the new owner without a RWC. You either: - sell with a RWC and transfer the reg (the form's on the Vicroads web site) or - take the plates off the car and de-reg the car with Vicroads (new owner gets an unreg vehicle permit to drive the car away and get a RWC). If your prepared to trust the new owner to get a RWC 'soon', then you could let him/her take the car away BUT it will still be in your name until the transfer is done (ie he/she gets a RWC and does the transfer....but you still have to sign the transfer form at some stage). So if he/she gets caught by a speed camera, you will get the bill and have to identify the driver, etc, etc. If you decide to go this way, at the very least you should get a signed, dated receipt clearly identifying the full name, address and drivers licence of the new owner in order to cover yourself as much as possible.

The item near the jack is some form of electronic 'filter' for the power supply to the rear window demister. The only reason I can think of for needing this is that R32's have the radio aerial built into the front windscreen, so the 'filter' might be needed to reduce/prevent interference with the demister working (or mabe even when its not....). Really need an electronics type to comment tho. As for the other photo, on the left is the amplifier for the rear speakers ('active' speaker system), on the right is the HICAS controller (I think).

If your after part numbers then FAST is the way to go. Also has exploded diagrams which can be more usefull than a workshop manual at times.

25070-30P01

Can't help you with someone to do it, but have a look at this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=84890&hl=

You could probably at least partially gut it, but I've never done it. I think this has also been discussed in other threads Tailshafts are different in the way they attach to the gearbox between GTR and R33 GTSt. GTR uses a 4-bolt flange, but GTSt uses a slip yoke. I also have a feeling the GTR tailshaft uses a different type of attachment at the diff. If the GTR gearbox is going into an R33 GTSt you'd best use the GTSt tailshaft and have the gearbox end changed over to the GTR flange attachment. Do the numbers carefully. Gearbox might be cheap, but by the time you add in all the extra expense of fitting it, may work out cheaper to buy the GTSt type in the first place and be done with it.

It will physically bolt up to the engine, of course, but you couldn't do it without the transfer case in place as the shifter mounts to it (for a start - then there's things like the tailshaft which is totally different between the GTR and the GTSt). There was a thread sometime back where someone had started bolting a GTR GB into an R32 GTSt and there were some photos, probably be worth a search. To be honest tho, I can't see why you'd bother as the R33 turbo gearbox is essentially the same strengthwise as a GTR GB.

The ones I have are stock factory R32 GTR and are the same dimensions as the R32 GTSt type but come cross-drilled from Nissan (actually they are cast that way, not drilled as such).

The gears are to all intents and purposes the same - ie strength is more or less the same, but there are some detail design diffferences. These are basically running production design changes between th 1989 GTR design and the end of R33 GTR production. Improvements were also made to the synchro designs, particularly of 3rd and 4th gears. There's also a miriad of other minor changes to casings, etc

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=86549&hl= Edit: R32 GTR and GTSt use the same rear discs.

Depends on what you define as 'most'....long nose R200 was used all the way back to 260Z in 1974, but LSD wasn't a factory option for cars sold in Oz and 'our' R30's only came with an R180. So 'most' turbo R30's sold in Japan may have had an R200 LSD, but long-nose R200's with LSD are rare in Oz and virtually all are imported or retro-fitted aftermarket jobbies.

Got the following R32 GTR bits and pieces for sale: Item: Nismo Twin Plate Clutch, push type..... SOLD Item: Factory cross-drilled rear discs (pair) Location: Melbourne Item Condition: approx 50% worn - each is 17+mm thick, minimum is 16mm Reason for Selling: replaced with new slotted discs Price and Payment Conditions: $80 the pair ono Contact Details: PM only thanks Item: Front discs (pair - 296 diam) Location: Melbourne Item Condition: slightly more than 50% worn - each is just under 31mm thick, minimum is 30mm Reason for Selling: replaced with new slotted discs Price and Payment Conditions: $80 the pair ono Contact Details: PM only thanks Item: rear calipers (pair) Location: Melbourne Item Condition: good - no leaks, etc Reason for Selling: spare pair but no longer needed Price and Payment Conditions: $80 the pair ono Extra Info: comes complete with shims and worn pads) Contact Details: PM only thanks

On my R32 GTR the aeriel was in the front glass. I recently had the windscreen replaced and we just cut the wire and used a new windscreen without the aeriel from a local supplier ($190 fitted). To replace it I bought a 'hidden' aerial made by Aerpro which uses the rear demister grid as the aeriel. Cost $20 and about half an hour to fit.

Ryan, I'm in ferntree gully. I've just pulled a set of Bilstein's off my GTR which will fit your GTS4 (GTSt's use a different lower shock mount on the rear so shocks from them won't fit your car). They are height adjustable (circlip) and no leaks etc. You can have them for $250 the set of 4 without springs (I'd prefer not to separate the set).

$100 was for the bush kit to do both front upper arms (ie 8 bushes + 4 spacer tubes). I'll PM you the contact details.

I've recently done mine and there are a few kits available depending on whether you want to go for adjustability or not. I just bought the standard replacement kit which was just under $100 (Noltec, but Whiteline and Nolathane also make similar kits). Fully adjustable arms cost around $400 a set, and there are also kits with adjustable bushes. Replacing the bushes requires access to a press.

VG30DE was used in the Z32 300ZX sold in Australia, so things like water pump, timing belt and engine gaskets will be available across the counter at Nissan - might even be able to get them from Repco, etc. Even if they have to be ordered from Japan the standard turn-around time from date of order is 2 weeks - not 6-8 weeks. Maybe your mechanic has pissed off the local nissan parts department guys in some way. All you have to do is take your VIN number into your local Nissan parts dealer and he can look up the stuff you want in FAST.