SteveL

I tend to use oils spec'd for mechanical LSD's. I suppose those are special additives but I don't look at them in the same way as stuff like Nulon, which are just unnecessary and a waste of $$ IMHO.

e-mail re: pair of black R32 electric mirrors.

The other thing to remember is that the rear diff on a GTR is a mechanical LSD and you need to use a hypoid gear oil suitable for LSD diffs. OTOH the front diff does not have an LSD centre so an ordinary hypoid gear oil can be used in that. Of course I'm assuming your car has the factory setup, but it's fairly rare to find an LSD fitted to the front diff of a GTR. If your not sure, it's perfectly safe to use an LSD spec diff oil in an open centre diff so just do that (plus it simplifies the types of oil you end up buying......)

Not a good idea AFAIC....ordinary gear oil for the gearbox, but diffs need a hypoid gear oil. If you've used ordinary gear oil in the diff change it to a hypoid GL5 type ASAP.....short term use probably won't do any damage. OTOH if you've used hypoid gear oil in the gearbox no damage will be done, but synchros may not work correctly - again, change ASAP. Edit: I've realised you might mean the same brand of oil, not necessarily the same type.....if that's the case, my apologies

It's a vent....all Nissan gearboxes have one (but not all have a hose...some just have a tube with a 'tophat', mainly early gearboxes). GTR gearboxes have an extra one for the ATTESA transfer case.

Changing the motor is the cheapest way to go. As browny says there are other ways but it ends up costing more (well when I looked into it it was - may not be the same in all cases). I also had to machine up an adaptor plate, plus modify the coupling to the hydraulic motor. This cost me nothing but my own time as I have access to the equipment and materials, but would be something you might need to allow for (depends on the motor, etc that comes with the hoist). I also had to change the DOL starter (motor controller) for one that suited the new motor.

I have an old Repco-Koni.....cost me $1000 plus I converted it to run 240V myself. I actually down-rated the motor to ensure I didn't overload my electrical system. Hoist uses a hydraulic ram and cable arrangement.....lifts my GTR no problem Molnar actually took over the rights to the Repco-Koni hoists and you can still buy spare parts from them. On the downside mine doesn't have the safety features of modern hoists (eg auto locking arms), but since I'm not using it for business purposes I don't have to worry about safety inspections which are mandatory for hoists in Vic (for businesses). Another Australian brand hoist is Tecalemit. These are a screw hoist and seemed to me to be the most inherently safe design. I almost bought one before the Repco, but the screw design means less flexibility in terms of 240V motor choice (greater inherent friction and therefore starting torque under load).

R32 GTR w/pump is not the same as RB30 w/pump (skyline or VL commode). Some will try to tell you otherwise, but I've got both types and compared them face-to-face....there's a single 6mm bolt at the top that's in a different location in each case. I've read here of people using the RB30 pump and just leaving the bolt out.....personally I wouldn't risk it. The downside is that the genuine R32 GTR pump is $300+ and to answer you're next Q....R33/R34 GTR pumps don't fit R32 GTR as there are design differences which also mean these pumps will leak. However it is possible to modify an R33 w/pump to fit an R32, but requires some welding and machining. R33 GTR w/pump costs around $140 (trade) so if you know someone that is handy with a TIG welder and has a mill then you can save some $$$.....that is what I did.

There's does appear to be some tearing of the rubber. You should also check the rear (gearbox) mount and the gearbox crossmember bolts/rubbers. I'm not sure about GTSt's, but in earlier designs the rear mount played a part in limiting forward movement of the engine/gb assembly. On the Z-car I added a restraining wire cable arrangement to 'hard' limit forward movement under heavy braking.

Yes it is

If the kit is for the RB30ET gearbox it's possibly worth a look (but I'd want them to provide some references in terms of people who are actually using it - someone you can talk to outside the company ie customers). If it's for the RB30E gearbox....forget it. Hollinger would be worth a call, probably about the best reputation out there.

If you mean the NA version then definately not. Manual 'box behind RB30E is similar in size and strength to the R32 GTSt gearbox. OTOH, RB30ET gearbox (VL turbo) is similar in size and strength to the R33 GTSt gearbox which in turn is similar to the R32 GTR gearbox (gear sizes, etc).

If you don't mind me asking....what was the reason it didn't fit ??. I too was under the impression that R32/33 GTR and R33 GTSt shifters were virtually identical.

You assume that I haven't....I've found that in virtually every case there's been other explanations (eg poor spring choice). Indeed I've found the same with Bilsteins. As I said.....'properly set up......'.

In the interest of balance, koni's are every bit as good as bilsteins: http://www.toperformance.com.au/index2.html I've used both, road and race, car and motorcycle. Properly set up they are equal. Personally I'd recommend looking at Bilstein's or Koni's over the 'name brand' Japanese suspension.

Steering mechanism is what really let the R30 down AFAIC......recirc ball box+lots of joints/links+a bit of wear=a car that steers like a boat. I found that replacing the standard idler arm bushes with polyurethane improved things, but I don't know if you can still get them. Datto 1600's have a similar steering system so might be worth looking at what the guys that use them for rallying do.

According to FAST 21010-21U26 water pump fits all R33 built between 8/93 and 1/96.

I hope your not suggesting that anyone 'do this at home' (cut and weld). Basically the GTR flange output needs to be mated to the 'rest' of the GTSt shaft.

You would need a custom tailshaft and almost certainly the same for the cross-member. At the very least you should check the position of the GTR cross-member compared to the GTSt type as well as the position of the shifter (eg distance from the bell-housing face).

They're not the same...apart from the pivot bush. I used to make some money on the side converting R30 arms to use a replaceable ball joint (Bluebird), but it was a fair bit of effort for relatively small return plus the demand was also quite small. Not a simple job and requires access to a lathe, mill and MIG or TIG welder.

R32 and R33 dumps are identical AFAIC, but R34 GTR dumps are a big improvement - they look a bit like the Nismo dumps, but don't have the wastegate 'splitter'. I have a set to go on my car (sometime ). They're also of welded stainless steel construction and are quite light compared with the R32/33 cast versions. Not saying they're the greatest thing, mind you, but definately an improvement over stock R32/33.

As far as I know.....mines stock and that's what it has on the side....

Standard R32 GTR block has '05U' cast into the block on the exhaust side (low down somewhere from memory). N1 block will have '24U' somewhere in the same area.

That's a torsional failure of the shaft - probably fatigue. I'd need to see a photo of the fracture surface to be sure, better still I'd prefer to examine it directly. Looking at the design and the fracture location, the failure is probably related to the design of the splines and their relationship to the bearing. Poor heat-treatment/core strength are possibilities as well. A proper failure analysis would tell the story.

UAS list a heavy duty item for $55: http://nismo.com.au/pricelists/pricelist_clutch.htm scroll to the bottom.