SteveL

No...different bellhousing bolt pattern.

There's no difference in strength between R32/R33 GTR gearboxes and R33 GTSt gearbox.

No, RB30 head bolt pattern is different.

Pm

Locally built R31's used the BW78 diff, as did VL's and VN's (and some Fords, I think).

I'm calm now Anyway, maybe get the guys that sent the PM's to forward a copy to admin plus any tracking info......if they've still got them of course. Good Luck....bump.

I had no problems with your PM's. If your not receiving the PM's at all this won't help, but I think the option to cancel the read receipt should be removed/turned off (ie the pop-up that asks you to acknoweldge the senders PM for tracking purposes). I mean FFS if you've read the PM that's it, and the tracking should show that automatically - why have the option to cancel ?? There's probably some obscure reason but I can't see it..... Also can I send negative feedback on some of the 'phantom' buyers on these forums ??....the ones that 'want want want', but disappear into the woodwork when you send them details and don't even give the courtesy of a 'no thanks' or whatever. Sort of got to be expected I suppose, but gets up my nose a bit......

Cable from the gearbox to the instrument cluster, but speedo is electronic.

I have an R33 S1 turbo...in Melbourne. PM if you want to discuss.

I drove my GTR home from the Patrick's Terminal just near the West Gate bridge. There are a few things to be aware of: - they won't let you into the area unless you have all the correct paperwork (clearances from your Customs broker). - you can't drive into the area. They have a mini-bus that picks you up at the main gate and delivers you to the car storage area. It's not actually too far BUT if your car needs work (eg flat battery like in my case) then you have to carry tools, etc to the car and that can be a pain. - if your sure your car will start and be OK to drive, then it's a relatively simple process (arrive at main gate; sign paperwork/hand over drivers licence; get bused to car; drive car back to main gate; get licence back; drive home ) - Make sure you arrange an unreg vehcle permit from Vicroads. Costs around $40 for a week or around $60 for 28 days. Make sure you display the permit on the windscreen or dash before taking the car on the road. It all comes down to whether you think the car will start/drive OK on the day. If it's been in storage for awhile in Japan, chances are high the battery will be flat.

Have a look here: http://aus300zx.neuralmotion.com.au/tech/p...r/pturepair.htm

None of the early gearboxes (up to the end of R30 production) have any (usable) identifying marks on the outside. The top of the bellhousing just behind the head sometimes has some stamped numbers/letters which might be a serial number, but only Nissan know Actually the otherway around - warner on 1-4 and servo on 5th, although have seen one or two with warner synchro on 5th. Only 240Z/260Z 5-speeds got servo synchros on gears 1 to 4 240K 5-speeds used the FS5W71B gearbox, but early cars were 4-speed (FS4W71A) and 3.5 diff ratio. 240Z/260Z used steel front cover, same as 240K. Early 240Z used FS5C71A g/box (flange output; similar to Fairlady gearbox) , late had FS5C71B same as 260Z.

There is no question that an RB25DET gearbox is much stronger than an RB20DET gearbox. Everything - gears/shafts/bearings - is physically much bigger in the RB25DET gearbox.

Nissan is about the only place you will be able to get them. The part numbers are: Inlet rocker cover gasket: 13270-58S11 Exhaust rocker cover gasket: 13270-58S01 Your probably looking at $30-$50 (each)

Bore and stroke will be the same. According to FAST the head gasket for L20ET has the PN: 11044-R1005 PN for rings depend on whether they are stock or OS. Best to give me the VIN of your car from the firewall data plate. PM if you prefer not to post here.

It'll be either 30mm or 35mm - I think 35mm from memory, I can double check on a spare block if you like. Get any replacements in brass, not steel (which is what the factory ones are made of. Check the other welch plugs for tell-tale rust trails - unusual for just the front one to go. Did you check the head for corrosion damage at the water transfer passages ?? Also removing the front cover requires breaking the sump seal.

Not legal in any state, AFAIK.

06 definately indicates CBA - that's my bank.

CBA = Commonwealth Bank of Australia The '06' in his Bank details confirms that his bank is the CBA, '2815' is the branch ID number (sorry, don't know which one it is).

Have a look at a 'name' brand oil cooler like Serck: http://www.capa.com.au/serck.htm These use proper compression fittings for oil line attachment. Personally I'd avoid anything that used hose clamps.......

No it will come as grey plastic - painting is extra.

Heaps, at a guess (new anyway). I was told a new lip alone was $400 or so. If you want to find out for yourself, these are the part numbers to quote to Nissan: Front bar (cover) - 62022-05U27 Lower Lip - 96015-05U00 Of course these will also be unpainted......

I had my bar off and also separated the lip - from the rear they looked to be made of the same grey plastic. You could try a PM to 'ocean' on these forums. He bought a spare lip I had with a couple of cracks at the mounting points and was going to have it plastic welded, so he might know what it's actually made of.

Pretty much the same for all R200 diffs - 1.5L. Anyway just fill it up until oil overflows out the filler hole.

If you mean as an engine oil cooler then you could bolt one on......but I wouldn't recommend it. Auto trans oil coolers aren't designed to handle the same working pressures as an engine oil cooler - might be OK for awhile, but chances are high of failure sometime down the track. Also the fittings on auto coolers are relatively small which would be a flow restriction, same is probably true of the internal design (think of the viscosity difference between ATF and engine oil, particularly at low temps).