SteveL

I'd use something from the Penrite 10/10ths range. Others have used Castrol, Redline, etc, or even Nismo oils (of course Nismo is not a specialist in oils...it would be blended for them)...do a search.

Just use a good quality mechanical LSD oil, hypoid GL5. If your planning on track work or other hard use, consider a synthetic. Personally I use Penrite oils. For clutch pack LSD's and similar it's normal to measure the break-away torque. Basically one output shaft is held stationary and the torque required to get the other o/p shaft to move is measured using a torque wrench (and some form of adaptor). The measured torque is a measure of the amount of 'lock' in the centre before the wheels start to go their separate ways, as it were. Stock Nissan centres have a fairly low break away torque, in the region of 30ftlbs or so, but extra plates can be added to make the diff pretty much fully locked. This would be a pain for street driving tho. We aim for a break away torque in the rgion of 70-90ftlbs as a compromise for street and some track work. Putting in extra plates requires dis-assembling the centre and should only be done by someone that knows what they're doing... There are other types of LSD (eg Torsen), but I'd say the majority are variations on the clutch type, particularly with Nissan's

Odds on it's a noisy clutch throw-out bearing. Cheap to fix...maybe $50+fitting, but it's been a long time since I bought just the bearing as it's usually changed when the clutch is replaced. Since the gearbox has to come out anyway to fix it, it would be worthwhile checking the condition of the clutch while its out. You're definately overdue for an oil change...I assume the level has at least been checked since it was changed ?? Still, if it's changing gears normally then it's probably just the clutch t/out bearing (above). A t/out bearing can be noisy for a very long time before it actually fails completely. Usually they just seize and the whole thing gets VERY noisy. Don't think I'd wait until it actually failed tho....

They are.

Actually they are very different. C210 uses semi-trailing arms like Datsun 1600, 280ZX and R30 Skyline. R33 uses multi-link set-up. Anyway there was a series of articles in old Zoom magazines (late 90's from memory) detailing RB20DET swap into a C210. Covered brakes, wiring, fuel tank mods and mods to fit the engine itself...pretty much everything in reasonable detail. I probably still have them somewhere.

You have to use the one of the original gearstick (but it doesn't fit as you've found). R33 turbo's and R32 GTR's use the same large plastic shift insert (ie on the tip of the gearstick inside the gearbox). Sounds like you've bought a shifter designed for the 'small' Nissan gearbox used in R32 GTSt's and R33 non-turbo's. These use a smaller shift insert which is why you've got all the slop. Bad news is they aren't interchangeable..... This is the reason I didn't buy one of these kits in a recent group buy.

According to the NISMO catalogue they are rated at 300PS each, which is about 300HP. Also the RS580 seems to be virtually identical (also 300PS and other specs are more or less the same).

No problem with disagreement ..... ...but the fact remains that the diff ratio is fixed and determines driven wheel speed. The free-wheeling effect of the open diff centre merely compensates for differences in turning radius + has the added side effect of allowing one wheel to spin as the other stops completely.

In a word.....NO Tailshaft 'speed' is fixed by the gearbox ratio (ie of the gear your in). In turn, axle 'speed' is fixed by the diff ratio (ie CWP, or crown wheel and pinion). These things can't change no matter what the wheels are doing....they are all mechanically linked by fixed gears. The fact that one wheel stops and the other wheel keeps spinning is the result of the design of an open diff centre, but the spinning wheel will always spin at more or less the rpm required for the speed indicated on the speedo...

Ah OK...you would be better off using a Bosch 008 ignition module. I use one with my M48 Pro. They are reliable and readily available. I've got a few 'lying around'...$20+postage. Wiring info is available here: www.motec.com.au/drawings/m11.pdf If it's suitable and you want one get back to me.

I just checked my R30 loom and it has one extra 3-pin connector on the ECU side of the firewall. Mine also has a part number tag on it: 24011-39S60. I've checked in the R30 part list and that PN is correct for an R30.

You'll need to be a bit more specific. Do you want for an Australian built R31 (RB30) or for an import ??

LOL....yeah, keep believing that.

No they don't...you obviously haven't got much of a clue about Australia's libel laws. 'Free speech' on the internet is a myth. It's not my problem.....and I sleep fine, thanks anyway.

Check the rear sub-frame bushes and the diff mount.

ian - perhaps you don't realise it but your arguing with people that are 'in the business' (certainly DRIFTT and I believe RBNT). It could be suggested by some that they have a vested interest in seeing the demise of the 15yo rule..... Anyway, knock yourself out bombarding DOTARS/the minister in any way you can....I wish you luck (truly). That said, I'd have to say your chances are next to zero of getting the changes reversed/modified. No politician - let alone a Minister - is going to, in effect, admit he/she was wrong by retracting an announcement like that unless there's huge political capital (ie votes) in it. Since we've just had an election i think the chance of that are negligible. [i'd have to say that the title of this thread and some of the posts are sailing pretty close to the wind in terms of libel...suggesting that a Minister has been bribed is a pretty serious accusation]

Amongst other things they're known as bump-steer spacers. Without going into great detail, basically they restore suspension geometry (lower control arm, etc) and particularly it's relationship to stock steering setup (tie-rod end angle) on a car that's lowered substantially by shortening the strut. The spacers put these compenents back to more or less their original configuration when a shortened strut is fitted. Without them the car can have peculiar handling characterstics (eg self steering under certain conditions). It's a particular problem with cars fitted with MacPherson strut front suspension (R31 Skylines and most Nissan models prior). R32/R33 etc multi-link suspension generally doesn't suffer from the problem.

I can't help you with a CAS, but I just check FAST and there was indeed a change of the CAS effective 9/97. Anyway, if you can't get one secondhand you might be able to order it through Nissan and the part number you want is: 23731-5L300 Important note: this is the same as the PN for the CAS used on ALL R34 models with RB engines (ie RB26DETT, RB25DET, RB25DE and RB20DE), so that will widen your options. Also all the Nissan CAS's that I've seen have the PN stamped on the outer circumference, so if you get a secondhand one it should have that number on it somewhere. Good Luck

ECU connector looks like L24E type....but then L28E type looks the same.... I have an L24E loom in the garage (as well as a US spec L28E ECU....and a local L24E ECU....I think)

I've got one, but only in paper form (I could fax it tomorrow). From memory Oz spec R30 and 280ZX wiring is very similar. Problem with relying on US sites for info like this is that some of the wiring for their cars can be different to ours (ours is usually simpler...)

Had a look at the data sheet - it's API GL-5 compliant and suitable for hypoid gear systems with or without LSD, so should be fine. IMHO synthetics are overkill for a daily driver, but if your planning on some trackwork they give an extra margin of safety due to higher temp stability.

I've got a couple of 1-DIN mounting brackets lying around in the garage somewhere....they're sort of a long rectangular metal 'pocket'. Let me know if that's what your after.

Pm

I've got my RB26 running using an RB25 CAS at the moment (I wanted to see if it worked).

Rolls Royce Merlin