SteveL

Have you tried an Oz spec R31 gb mount ?? I'd be surprised if it wasn't v similar or at least reasonably easy to adapt. Certainly the flange that bolts to the gearbox would be the same.

Probably not....even if the diff had been setup very 'tight', the worst that should happen is that you'd get persistant 'squeelling' from the tyres on tight turns. In fact it would be a bit like a locked diff (CIG locker ) which are bitch on tight turns (parking, etc). If your getting a lot of shaking, suggests something's actually damage, but it could also be shot suspension bushes or even a damaged driveshaft.

Link to pics doesn't work for me...what colour is the GTR wing and is it the genuine type (ie not a copy) ??

Doesn't have one.....

Looks identical to the R32 RB20DET gb I've just done a strip and check on - but it has RB71C on the side. OTOH, an original R31 Silhouete gearbox I have has RP71C on the side, plus a few others I have seen/worked on had the same. Anyway, that gearbox is from an RB20DET powered car AFAIC - no RB30 gearbox I've seen has that amount of ribbing on the bellhousing.

The rotors you have can be easily machined down to the correct diameter. I know someone that could do it cheaply, but he's in Sydney on holidays at the moment. Heck, I'd do it myself but I'm not back at work for a couple of weeks.

When you say they don't bolt up do you mean that the caliper mounting holes don't line up with the holes on the suspension using the R33 disc ?? I understood that R32 GTSt and R33 GTSt used the same calipers, but the larger discs used by R33's would mean that the caliper mounting points on the suspension would have to be further outboard radially (assuming the mounts on the caliper are the same for each). Just a thought...

It's been done, but unless you are a proficient machinist with access to accurate equipment, plus have a lot of experience at setting up diffs your better off not attempting this. Sorry to hijack your thread R32-GTS.

A lot of parts are interchangeable. Here's thread on SDU that shows a picture of a GTSt gearbox plus has lots of other useful info: http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...hlight=5th+gear

14psi max variation between cylinders is pretty much a universal spec for Nissan engines, and it's between any 2 cylinders not just pairs.

6301 is listed in my NSK catalogue. It's just a standard deep groove ball bearing. Not sure about the 'L', but U indicates rubber seal or seals. Don't see that it's anything special, any bearing place should be able to help, but I see you've tried one. All I can suggest is grabbing the yellow pages and ringing around a few more. If I get the chance I'll try my supplier, but that's not going to help you much as I'm in Melbourne.

Cheap gauges aren't accurate as Duncan said so these figures are a guide at best. The biggest worry is the difference between cylinders 2 and 4. Nissan recommends a maximum diff between cylinders of 14psi pretty much regardless of engine type, so these are well outside that. I'd recommend getting an accurate compression test done or, preferably, have a leak down test performed which is a far better indicator of engine condition. Were these tests done with engine at operating temp, throttles open, etc ??

RP71C is RB30E gearbox RB71C is R32 gearbox Got both of these in the garage. Another difference is that the R32 type has a lot more ribbing on the outside surface of the bellhousing.

It's also possible the mainshaft nut has come loose, but usually when that happens the first signs are that the gearbox starts jumping out of 5th gear and gets progressively worse. Since your problem started happening rather suddenly it's more likely somethings broken. I'd also recommend looking closely at the condition of the bearings....particularly the countershaft bearing in the steel sandwich plate. It's not uncommon for this bearing to fail in gearboxes used hard. I've actually got an R32 GTSt gearbox apart at the moment that seemed in OK condition, but disassembly has revealed the CS bearing cage has disintegrated and the balls literally fell out. I've seen this before and others have reported similar problems. In fact I'd recommend replacing these bearings while its apart (the CS bearing is only $10...retail), but the labour cost might be high since to get at it requires complete dis-assembly.

Sounds like you missed 3rd and grabbed 5th instead.....but hard. I'd say most likely a broken 5th selector fork. One 'arm' is probably broken off, which would allow only near or partial engagement. Seen it before with RB30 gearboxes (v similar design), they have an alloy selector fork, which can break under hard/harsh shifting.

More likely that price is for a reco'd rack, but if it is brand new I'd grab it...that's cheap.

It should still be done on a dyno but since you already have a map it's just a case of modifying that, which is where you save. Of course there are other factors like whether the GRID ecu map can be modified in real-time, but funky would be best to comment on that. With the Motec you can use the quick lambda function to speed things, but it saves a lot to have a base map to start with. I run an M48 pro, but not on a GTR so have been through all that.

Check your e-mail

You'd have to open it. The advantage of the daughterboard arrangement is that it looks factory stock even tho it isn't . Whereas putting in something like a Motec ECU is obviously not (I'm thinking of EPA/police inspections). Also if yiu get a motec you'll have to get the car dyno'd from scratch unless you can find someone with a suitable ECU map - probably difficult. But if funky can simply modify your existing maps you'll save $$$

Probably fine then.....things will definately improve with a warm engine and probably even more with a bit of a run, esp after sitting around for awhile in Japan. Closed throttle would also push readings down. Good luck with it.

Factory WS manual specifies a minimum of 128psi, with no more than 14psi difference between cylinders. Was the test done with the engine at normal operating temp ??

Looks like a mechanical LSD centre, but hard to telll anything else. Some closer photos down those 'holes' might tell the story. Didn't you say in another thread that it was noisy (clunking) ??

Yes, interesting isn't it..... I'll add to that by saying that I'm more than happy with my 89 GTR bought through Prestige Motorsport. It was pretty much exactly as described and anything that was missed turned out to be a bonus (eg Bilstein suspension, near brand new tyres, etc). For the price it was a bargain...as to km, it has a 320km/hr Nismo speedo fitted , so don't know, but don't care either....

Before you order a new one you can check out the old one if you have access to an ohm meter. With it out of the car as shown, the resistance across its terminals should be infinate at anything less than about 90C. Next thing to do is to chuck it in some boiling water (eg pan on a stove), let it sit for a minute to reach temp and then quickly take it out and measure the resistance of the terminals before the temp drops. Resistance should be zero or nearly so. If not, it's stuffed. If it checks out OK with this test, it's time to look at the wiring (corrosion, etc). Of course don't burn yourself in the process Oh and if you don't have an ohm/volt meter I'd recommend getting one as they are'nt expensive and are a very useful tool.

So the fan came on with the two terminals shorted (joined) in the green connector shown in that photo ?? If so, then problem is with the thermoswitch in the bottom of the radiator. But I'd recommend get your entire cooling system checked out.