SteveL

L24E in R30 has sump bowl at the front, which is the same as RB30, so that's not a problem No - as suggested you need to change to an RB gearbox, or put an RB bellhousing on your existing GB. Not totally sure on this one but chances are high that the clutches are the same or v similar. In any event I'd recommend chucking in a new clutch while you've got it all pulled down and in that case you'd get the RB30 type. Your R30 uses R180 diff. These are reliable up to 250HP or so. Unless your planning big mods I wouldn't worry about it You aren't going to have a whole lot of choice. L24E PS pump won't fit RB30 block, so you'll have to use the RB30 type if you want PS. I would say it should work OK, but might be worthwhile to check if there are any differences in operating pressures. Problem here is that the L24E sits at an angle in the engine bay, and the existing mounts are designed for that. You may have to experiment with different mounts to get the best fit. I don't know of a single answer for the issue, but have heard that some have resorted to bolting in the R31 cross-member to solve the problem (but I gather it's not quite 'bolt in'..) You need to check with rego authorities about engineering req's. In Vic it would definately require an engineering inspection.

According to DBA cat original front disk for DR30 is PN 608 (274x22), which is same as early Z31 300ZX. DBA 609 is Bluebird front disk. If your current disks are 280x26 there must have been a conversion at some stage on your car.

DBA cat lists PN 953 with these dimensions in 4 stud, but whether they fit will also depend on your disc offset (hat height) and bore hole dimensions, which are given as 49mm and 68mm respectively. Worth a try.

Yeh..didn't say it would be cheap My 89 GTR came already kitted out with a GREX remote oil filter kit + FM oil cooler, inc thermostat. The oil filter is mounted just behind the front lip on the passenger side. It actually took me a few minutes to find it when I first got the car, but changing it is sooooo easy and no mess Whatever you buy, get a kit that uses proper compression fittings (eg AN or similar). Some of the cheap kits use hose clamps which IMHO are not good enough for long term reliability at engine oil pressure/temps.

A big part of the problem on a GTR is just getting access to the filter. I'd strongly recommend investing in a remote filter adaptor kit which makes things a LOT easier.

Done

What is the mod ?? See my earlier post, UAS list an R32 N1 water pump for $380...... Edit: oops, your from there I see so your saying the R32 N1 pump is just a modified R33 pump ??

RB26 engine uses 'solid' lifters with correct cam clearance adjusted by using various thickness shims under the lifter buckets. Your friend is assuming you have hydraulic lifters, but this method will have no effect. Assuming the noise is related to cam lobe clearance, probably best to check all the clearances or have them checked.

So you've used an R33 GTR pump on an R32 GTR ??...if they interchange so easily (suggesting only minor differences), why the huge price diff ?? Also gtrken is suggesting a bolt location is different between the two I'm not interested in the N1 pumps, they are designed primarily for best flow in higher RPM ranges. Duncan: there's no doubt one bolt is in a different location for RB30 pumps. These can be used if you leave out that one bolt, but I'd rather not take the risk.

I have an empty S15 R200 housing. Probably very similar but don't know for sure. I'm in Melbourne.

With S2 coilpacks Nissan 'built in' the transistors that are found in the ignitor pack found on earlier cars. The ignitor pack on S1's has 6 transistors, one for each of the coil packs. The ECU signals these transistors in turn to fire the coil packs. But on S2's each coil pack has the firing transistors manufactured into the coil pack itself (one per coil pack). The ECU is connected directly to the coil packs on S2's, but the way things work is essentially the same. In theory a S1 ECU should fire S2 coil packs fitted to an S1 engine by simply removing the ignitor pack and 'bridging' the connectors on the wiring loom. Of course if the coil pack connectors are also different you'd have to change them as well. That said, I've never tried it so take no responsibility if the attempt is made

MRK25T: no offence mate, but a picture of a bunch of cars in a field proves nothing in terms of your claims. I've seen many similar pics on various sites and all it proves is that there are a lot of secondhand cars in fields in Japan (if it is in fact a picture of cars in Japan). Disclaimer: I don't work for and am not associated with J-Spec. I've met Craig Moor and believe him to be honest and genuine.

Does anyone know the EXACT differences between R32 and R33 GTR water pumps ?? Trade prices for these pumps are VERY different: R32 GTR: $300+ R33 GTR: $120 I want to replace the pump on my R32 GTR as part of doing the timing belt, etc, and I'd much rather go with the R33 type if it will fit, for obvious reasons... I've done a search and found no concrete answers. Some suggest the RB30 type will fit, but I know that the bolt pattern is slightly different and you run the real risk of a water leak and I'd rather not. I would think the bolt patterns would be the same for the R33/R32 GTR's, but other possibilities are that the impellor is different (not a problem), the bearings are different (not a problem), fan offset/attachment flange is different (might be an issue)....and ??

Trade price for the genuine R33 GTR water pump is $120+change (just got that price from my local Nissan parts guy in the last hour). That's a BIG difference compared with $300 for the R32 type. I'd REALLY like to know what the differences are between the R32 and R33 GTR pumps......think I'll start another thread.

Your not the only one Ken.

UAS now list the R33 GTR N1 pump for $330 and the R32 type for $380.

Thanks for the info, I assume the $170 price was over the counter at a Nissan dealer ?? Do you have the PN ?? Must be some difference other than the PN. Interestingly UAS have the genuine N1 water pump also cheaper for the R33 GTR compared with R32

I think what we're saying is that Geoff and the other reputable brokers try to be as up front as they can about the costs of importing, but things like the cost of getting a roadworthy are almost impossible to predict so anyone planning on importing should probably allow at least a couple of thousand extra to cover the 'unexpected'.

I had an R30 hatch for a few years, very good cars and the L24E gives surprisingly good performance (better if it's a manual). Anyway one thing that does let them down is.... ...recirc ball steering. When they get a bit of wear, these cars steer like a boat. First thing to check is the idler arm attached to the passenger side rail. There are 2 plastic bushes that support the arm which are notorious for wearing out. When they do, the steering feels really loose. You should also check all the other steering parts for wear (eg tie-rod ends) as there are a number of joints in the system and a bit of wear in each 'adds up'. Steering box usually doesn't give problems, but if everything else checks out might be worth having a specialist look at it. It would be unusual for the rear seal to give problems unless the engine's done a lot of k's or was badly installed at an overhaul. The side seals on the rearmost main cap sometimes give problems, but again usually only after high k's or a bad install. Another possibility is leaking sump seal as the oil tends to gravitate to the rear and it's common to loose tension on the sump bolts over time. Best thing to do is to give the whole engine a thorough degrease and try to spot the source of the leak after that.

Did you read the info the Geoff sent you at the time of purchase of the car ??. With the possible exception of the key, that info tells you to make allowance for all the so-called 'hidden' costs you've outlined above. Compliance is mandatory....why would he hide that cost ?? (he doesn't, BTW). Getting a roadworthy is also mandatory in all states, AFAIA and he tells you to allow for 'on road costs'....having the car towed and/or an unreg vehicle permit is an inevitable part of the process. Requiring new bushes could happen to ANY secondhand car and you would have been very lucky to get the car on the road without spending anything extra. Aircon de-gas/re-gas is also mentioned in his info. Full service is really your decision. As for me, I bought an 89 GTR through prestige and I got a bargain. The cost has actually turned out to be less than he estimated, plus I got a lot of extra parts on the car that I didn't expect (eg Bilstein suspension). Recommended

Genuine R32 GTR water pump is $300+ from Nissan (trade).....I'd like to know where you can get one for $150.

Yes they all use restrictors and as MrMayhem says they are all ball-bearing.

There are 5 clips that hold the grill in place. 2 on each side that fit into holes that are molded as part of the headlamp assemblies, and a single central one that clips into a bracket that is part of the bonnet latch support. You could get away without the middle one but not the other 4. So, yes, you need GTR headlight assemblies or rig some type of substitute bracket.

Yes, that's what I think too.

There's a rubber boot that's there to keep water/dirt out if that's what you mean. Tragic: check your PM.