SteveL

No...check out page EN252 of the factory WS manual, fan is supposed to operate when coolant temp >90C.

Actually the fan is switched on by a coolant temp sensor in the bottom tank of the radiator on R32 GTR's - mine has it.

I agree with ylwgtr2....any competant panel beater should be able to repair that without problems, but of course there will always be a cost. Perth people should be able to make some recommendations, but get at least a few quotes. If the damage was done by a forklift there should be other signs....eg 'flattening' of the the sill pinch weld, but there's not enough detail in the photos's to tell. But I agree with someone else's comment that the damage looks 'old'.

To be clear, those pics aren't of 4th gear, but of the 1st mainshaft gear - I can make out the sub-gear used on the 1st MS gear in one of the photos. The 4th gear synchro is also of the single cone type, but is actually part of the main input gear (ie the shaft that sticks out of the front of the gearbox and is what the clutch plate is attached to).

Give me the name of your parts guy and a contact number, I'll get my parts guy to talk direct to him. I've been through all this with Nissan (local parts, central parts distribution and all the way back to Japan) and my own investigation using FAST software has confirmed. The original type R32 GTR 4th (and 3rd) gear synchro has been superseded BUT the new part does not fit without replacing a bunch of other associated parts (eg engagement ring, hub, input gear, etc)

I'd be interested to know where you can buy 'original' R32 GTR 3rd and 4th gear synchros....certainly not from Nissan, they are NLA.

If the temp sensor is not working correctly then the ECU might 'think' the engine is 'cold' and so richen the mixture causing abnormal fuel consumption. But note that (if I remember correctly) there are 2 coolant temp sensors on these cars - one for the ECU and one for the dash gauge. These don't 'talk' to each other and if your gauge is 'not working properly' this has no effect on way the engine runs. I had an R30 auto hatch for awhile and could get around 400k's from a tank around town, but that was fairly gentle driving. I'd say anything in the 350-400k region around town would be 'normal'. A manual car should do slightly better. The R30 will run on unleaded without any effect on the valves or seats. I found that mine tended to ping under load using ordinary unleaded, but otherwise ran fine. These cars were built before the days of unleaded fuel in Oz and probably would have been run on 'super' in those days which had an octane rating roughly similar to premium unleaded.

I have a S1 ecu and uncut engine loom that I might sell but am in Melbourne. If your interested you can PM me an offer....but be realistic and allow for postage.

I'd say fill in the form and find out. I don't believe you can get a bad credit record just from a loan application rejection.....a bad record would come from not paying once you got the loan.

YHPM

It's been awhile since I had a personal loan, but I'd say in your situation the bank will almost certainly want a guarantor (parents, etc). The other thing is how much they will lend....and that is always related to you ability to pay (in-comings versus out-goings). For loans of anything less than a few thousand they'll be pushing credit cards at you.

According to the Oz spec parts list the rear bumper 'finisher' has a different part number to the Jap version. Don't have access to FAST at the moment so can't check exactly what that is, but someone else should be able to.

As per sub after a working LH door latch mechanism. It's the mechanism inside the door itself that various rods connect to, not the outside or inside handles, or the key cylinder. I'd say other R32 2-doors would use the same mechanism, but don't know for sure. I'm in Melbourne TIA

Yes you do. Mine was fitted as part of the compliance cost, but I'm sure someone will be able to answer your other q's.

This is correct for 15yo compliance AFAIC. My 89 GTR was recently complianced and no plate was supplied. However a new VIN is issued by DOTARS and that is stamped into a convenient area of the engine bay. In my case it's stamped into the drivers side shock tower. The original Japanese chassis number is 'incorporated' into the new VIN, but the new VIN complies with DOTARS standards. In my case the new VIN is: 6U9000BNR32001650

If I get the chance I'll measure it. They use the same Borg Warner model 78 (BW78) diff housing. Pintara uses different ratio gearset (4.1), 25 spline axles and 2-pinion centre. R31 Skylines use 3.7 or 3.9 gears (manual or auto), 28 spline axles and 4 pinion centre. All parts are interchangeable between R31 Skyline/Pintara diffs. Cars with LSD used 28 spline axles, so if you want to put a Skyline LSD into a Pintara diff you'd also need to change the axles. BTW, VL/VN Commodes and some Fords also use the same BW78 diff

200zr uses NICS type RB20DET in Z31 chassis. NICS engine is the earliest type of RB20DET and had around about 140kW in stock form. There's always arguments about the type of turbo on RB20DET's, but it is certainly a T3 flange with a 'small' compressor. The only Skyline ECU that would drop in is from another NICS engine and would make no difference at all. As has been suggested you'd be better off just bolting in a later engine rather than changing heads. Since the NICS engine uses a 'unique' inlet manifold setup, you'd also have to swap everything with the head + ECU etc, and by the time you've done all that you might as well change the whole motor. Your existing engine also uses a different sump setup to Skylines. In your case the sump 'bowl' is at the back of the engine, but Skylines have it at the front. To put a Skyline engine in your car you'd need to change over your sump and pick-up. I think it should be a straight swap, but can't say for sure. Main limitation to performance improvement on your engine is the top mount intercooler. GTiR's suffer the same problems. You'd be best to change to an FMIC and maybe look around at what Z31 turbo (VG30ET) owners fit to their cars as it would also probably be able to work with your car. Try here: http://z31.com/ good luck.

My car went on the boat before I received import approval and that caused me some stress, believe me , but it turned out allright in the end. I doubt you'd be up for much more than extra storage costs.....this is a direct quote from VSB 10 "Importing Vehicles to Australia" on the DOTARS web site: "An Import Approval must be obtained for a vehicle to gain clearance at its point of entry to Australia. Vehicles that arrive in Australia without an import approval will incur storage costs until an import approval is issued. It is strongly recommended that you do not ship your vehicle to Australia until such time as you are issued with an Import Approval. If you do ship your vehicle before receiving an approval and your vehicle arrives before the application is processed, you will incur storage costs."

Can anyone recommend a company per sub ?? TIA

From the DOTARS website: [importing a vehicle for] Rally Use/ Closed Circuit Racing Before approving an application, the Administrator needs to be satisfied that the vehicle will be only used for rally/race purposes Import applications for rally/race use will only be considered where the vehicle will be used in serious competition, generally at professional level. Where a particular vehicle model is readily available in the Australian market, an import approval will not be granted unless there are compelling reasons to justify why it is necessary to import a vehicle to compete in events in Australia. The fact that a vehicle may be on an eligibility list for an event is not, of itself, a reason to justify the granting of an import approval. At a minimum, the following criteria must be met: Eligible vehicles for rally/race use are those homologated by the Federation Internationale de l’Automobile (FIA). These vehicle models can be found listed at www.fia.com/sport/Homologations/homol_vehicles.html. Under normal circumstances applicants will be restricted to importing a single vehicle and acceptable reasons will need to be provided to import another vehicle for rally/race use. Road vehicles for rally use are imported on the condition that they will only be used in the course of competition, practice associated with competition and transport to and from a rally location. The applicant must lodge with their application a statement that the vehicle will only be used for rally purposes together with a copy of a current CAMS R3 or higher grade licence. For closed circuit racing the applicant must lodge with their application a statement that the vehicle will only be used for closed circuit racing purposes together with a copy of a current CAMS C3 or higher grade licence. In addition, the applicant will need to provide evidence of a professional or high level involvement in rally/race sport, including: details of events in which the applicant has driven a rally/race car; details of specific events in which the applicant proposes to compete in the car for which the import application is submitted; details of the rally/race club or organisation of which the applicant is a member and the length of membership; and if the vehicle is a model available in the Australian vehicle market, justification of the need to import the vehicle (cost of the vehicle in the domestic market will not generally be considered an acceptable justification). Documents required to be submitted with the application form: $50.00 application fee, purchase documents, certified picture ID if first time applicant, copy of CAMS R3 or higher licence or CAMS C3 or higher, evidence of participation in rallying or closed circuit racing and evidence of vehicles homologation. (If you have not imported in last 12 months you are required to provide certified ID)

Sorry, I should have picked this up from your photos....the 4 spots don't use a bolt (banjo bolt in old terminology) but use a flare nut and a short length of pipe to connect to the flexible hose. You could possibly get away with shortening your existing bolts, but the surface of the caliper isn't machined to 'conform' with the sealing copper washers used for your old cals. Worth a try, but the other option is to get the m-spec brake hoses and fittings. In terms of the stripped threads, it should be possible to use a thread repair kit to fix it (re-coil or heli-coil) and a brake specialist should be able to help. Thread is M10x1 from memory and shouldn't cost much, but whoever does it should make sure they don't allow swarf into the cal (strip it down for cleaning before or after would be best)

Ah OK, thanks for the PS fluid info. I do all my own work and after 30 odd years of crawling around under cars, today I bought a hoist so I can work on the GTR more 'conveniently'.....now I've just got to modify my garage roof to suit.... Cheers

Do you have a copy if the WS manual ??, all the amounts are given there. 7L for the engine oil ?? supposed to be about 4.5-5 depending on whether the filter is changed or not. I've been trying to find out about what PS fluid to use - who recommended the Transmax (sounds like auto tranny fluid ??). The stuff recommended in the WS manual has never been available in Australia, apparently. I use and recommend Penrite products

I think you'll find I'm right and once you get the old bracket off the new cals will bolt up np. By 'front hubs' do you mean the discs themselves ??....or do you have a problem with the wheel bearings and the hubs need to come off ?? Anyway, to get the discs off you need to get that bracket off first, but the bolts can be a bugger if they haven't been undone in awhile (corrosion, etc). Once the bracket is off, the discs should also slip straight off. If they don't (again, corrosion,etc) you will see that the discs have a couple of drilled and tapped holes with no bolts. Just screw a spare bolt into each of these (either 6mm or 8mm, I can't remember) and tighten them up and the disc should pop off. BTW, don't undo that large nut, it holds the stub axle in place.

Perhaps I misunderstand you, but try undoing the 2 large bolts you can see in the extreme RH photo of your pics. The old caliper bracket should come away and then with any luck the 4-pot caliper will bolt straight up using those bolts. You might have to trim the backing plate to clear.