SteveL

You could have a look at the reverse check device which is mounted on the passenger side of the O/D case just below the pressed steel cover plate. It's held in by a 10mm head bolt and is sort of 'tear drop' in shape. It's got a 'cam' and hairspring arrangement and I suppose there's a remote possibility the spring could break. But if you've got normal lever travel when trying to select reverse it's unlikely to be that. Anyway, you could try taking it out and seeing if it makes any difference (note it's got a sealing o-ring on the body so might take a bit of levering, plus I'm not sure there's enough clearance to remove it completely with the gb in the car). There's also a check ball, spring and plug for the O/D and reverse mechanism on the drivers side of the gearbox on the sandwich plate. Again, you could try taking out the plug and see if it makes any difference.

If all the other gears are fine you don't need a clutch.

OK....so why don't you (or LegnumVR4) create an FAQ in the import section explaining EXACTLY down to the last detail how to do this ??. I'm serious....it's oh so easy to make statements like the above, but there are many, many, many people - like me - who wouldn't have a clue about where to start 'looking for a buyer in Japan', and that is why brokers are useful.

Gear width (or thickness) is the same between the 2, so in that sense the strength is the same. Having double synchros does not change the the thickness of the gears, because the extra synchro is concentric (ie one inside the other). Also I'd have to double check back at work, but 99% sure double synchros are only fitted to 2nd and 3rd gears (certainly there's no doubt that's the case for R32/R33 GTR gearboxes which are essentially the same design).

The Japanese Yahoo auctions has these sorts of things. For example: http://page8.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h22781799 ....and places like Slidewize Imports can get them for you: http://www.slidewizeimports.com/products/y...yahoolinks.html Your probably looking at $150-$180 for the surround shown in the auction above delivered to you (but that's only my guess). If your prepared to pay a bit more you could probably get it new. The only other thing you can do is ring around the wreckers (JMS, JustJap, etc) or wait until they are advertised privately on sites like SAU. Good Luck

Question is....can you still get 5th ?? Also does the shift lever still have normal travel when trying to get reverse ??...or does it stop part way ?? 5th is 'operated' by a 'pin' link mounted on the reverse shift fork. If you can get 5th, then it's not a linkage problem, but probably a broken/damaged reverse shift fork or roll pin. If you can't get 5th it could be a linkage problem further forward in the 'box, but could also still be something to do with reverse mechanism. There are other remote possibilities like shaft circlips breaking.

Actually it's the other way around...v-spec cars DON'T have fins on the diff cover. But that's not a reliable guide either as some late production non-v-spec R32 GTR's also came without the diff fins.

Assuming we're talking R32 here.... Gearbox is the same (shhh...don't tell anyone else ) R200 diff is used in both, so strength is the same, but ratio is different (I think) Rear drive shafts are different in diameter where they pass through the hubs (someone doing a conversion had a post on that one recently).

The ATTESA system will have to be bled once you disconnect the line. Not difficult to do, a bit like bleeding brakes. The procedures detailed in the WS manual - best get hold of a copy if you don't have it already. To minimise fluid loss and the amount of bleeding required try stopping off the end of the line once you disconnect it.

yet another PM

V interested...sent you a PM

Unfortunately there are many things that can be bought legally aftermarket , but are illegal to fit to your car.

These are timing figures, not lift. I've read elsewhere that the lift is greater for N1's compared with stock (not a lot, but more nonetheless), We'll see. Oh and I can get a set of locally made adjustable cam gears very cheaply (mates rates ), so they'll be going on as well. They're not the fancy coloured ones but do the same job.

My understanding is that if the IC is factory standard then the pods are OK, but suggest you talk to the EPA to confirm and ask for that in writing. I talked with a Vicroads engineer (NOT one of the desk drones) about pods about 6 months ago. To quote him directly: "We are'nt concerned about them.....they are not an engineering (ie roadworthy) issue. However the EPA may be interested, you should talk to them" So I rang the EPA. They were very helpful and, in a nutshell, they are allowed as long as they are the only intake mod (as we all have thought). One thing to note tho was that they wanted to know the make, model and year of manufacture of the car, but mine was only a general enquiry about pods. I suspect that with more recent model cars, the ADR's are stricter (ie pods may not be allowed under any circumstance on something manufactured in 2004, for example).

Well turns out they were brand new R34 GTR N1 cams so I grabbed em for $280 the pair, which I didn't think was too bad. As for modifications/machining doing valve clearances...doesn't bother me, I have a lot of experience as well as access to a wide range of metal working equipment, in fact I regard it as something of a challenge Thanks for all the input.

Have one in Melbourne. PM or e-mail me. [email protected]

If it's any help I've got a standard airbox you can borrow.

My oil temp gauge doesn't work but that's because when an after market oil cooler - FMOC - was fitted (in Japan), they removed the factory oil cooler together with the temp sender. I'd like to have my readings back, so if anyone has a sender 'lying around' I'd be interested.

No that's fine. You don't need much o/p at idle and as long as the pressure is good at operating revs (engine under load) then there's nothing to worry about. What Ronin09 says is correct...the factory o/p gauges and senders are heavily damped and (at best) the readings are a guide only. If your still concerned then have your o/p pressure checked using an accurate (ie calibrated) mechanical or electronic gauge.

Ta, will do.

That's probably why they aren't compatible according to what Gav mentions. I just checked FAST and the bare R34 GTR head (PN 11040-05U00) is listed as a direct replacement for the original R32 GTR head (PN 11040-05U80), but the cams for each have quite different PN's, plus the R34 GTR cams are not listed in the supercession chain for R32 GTR (the head was). This means that the cam journal's, lifter bores, seal bores, etc are the same for R32/R34 GTR (and probably R33), but something to do with the cams is not. Since both inlet and exhaust have different PN's between the models, it must be more than just the CAS coupling (eg cam sprocket mount/location).

Is there anything to be gained putting stock R34 GTR cams into an R32 GTR (also pretty stock) ?? Can probably get a set 'cheap'.... Also i assume they would 'bolt in' (valve clearances to be checked, of course). TIA

Jason, don't know if it will help but try here (scroll down): http://www.meggala.com/partcss.htm

Sorry just realised your from Finland....welcome !! The official Nissan spec for RB26DETT power output is 206kW at the flywheel. But that figure conforms to the max advertised power output which Japanese car manufacturers agreed with the Japanese govt to comply with. The 'real' output of these engines is somewhat higher....maybe 230kW or so. There is no RB26DE, in terms of an official Nissan model, but there have been some versions built by aftermarket specialists in Japan (eg Autech) - do a search, there's been a couple of threads recently.

Apologies in advance for the continued intrusion, but I just rang a Nissan dealer in Melbourne at random (Oakleigh Nissan for the record) and the list (retail) price for the above PN (R33 GTR N1 water pump) is: $320.83 + GST, or a total of $352.91 'nuff said.