SteveL

I can get you the PN on Tuesday (Monday is Labour day in Melbourne). Just make sure your happy with the condition of the rest of the 'box - you don't want to go to all the trouble of putting it back together to find that there's something not right. If you have the VIN number for you car any dealer should be able to look up the PN in FAST regardless of the car being an 'import'. I have'nt had any problems with dealers over here in that regard.

I meant that 2-door windscreens would be the same regardless of engine, and the same would be true for sedans (ie all sedan windscreens are likely the same). I didn't mean that 2-door windscreens were the same as sedan windscreens.

Sorry should have been clearer.....the 2-into-1 pipe between the dumps and the cat. God I'm glad I bought the hoist. It meant delaying all the work I planned, but it's been well worth it. That said, persistance is good Personally I'd replace the gaskets to be sure, but Nissan want $20+ each for the dump->down pipe gaskets, which is a bit rich AFAIC. An exhaust place should be able to supply something for around $5....it's something I have to check on next week. That's basically what I do, but it's best to drain the block if you can. What I do normally (no hoist) is to put the front of the car up on ramps and then the rear on jack stands. This should give you ample 'crawl' space for everything short of dropping the gearbox. I think the idea is to allow the heater core to drain...putting the ign on + setting a high temp opens the flow control valve fully. What I normally do is disconnect the heater hoses at the firewall and then do a 'direct flush' of the core using a hose on the firewall connectors to the core until the water runs clear. In this case you'd do that with the ign on, etc, but turn ign off once done (and reconnect hoses, etc).

Are you sitting down ??......I was quoted $1900 for all the upgrade parts, and that's trade !! Bearings add $250, seals, gaskets, etc probably another $50. So you can see where this is heading. As I said, it might be best to just spend the minimum on this gb and save for a new one.....esp if the gb was shifting normally up to the failure. I don't believe so. The mating gear on the countershaft is not separable and it interferes with the coupling ring mating teeth on the input shaft/gear.

It's the down pipe that has to be removed....so you can get to the block drain. Otherwise you can't even see it, let alone get to it. Also I'd say the lower support bracket for the rear turbo will need to be removed to allow leverage on the drain plug. I've literally just removed the radiator from my GTR and it was made a whole lot easier with a hoist....doing it without one would be a nightmare (well.....maybe a bad dream )

Mark, good news is that the shift fork and gasket aren't too expensive from Nissan, plus the seals can be obtained from CBC, etc. The bad news is BAD tho....if I understand your description of the 'tin clip' correctly, they are NLA from Nissan. You can't buy them for love nor money. The same is true for the input shaft. The reason for this is simply that Nissan made many 'running' production changes for GTR gearboxes over the years. These were improvements which totally changed the design of many components, inc 3/4 gears and associated parts (synchros, etc). The improvements are incompatible with the earlier parts.....and Nissan also discontinued those parts completely. How do I know this ??. Well I've been down this path, and I've chased those clips all the way back to Nissan in Japan. The story is the same everywhere....NLA. Your welcome to confirm for yourself tho, and I can give you the PN's if you want. What would I advise you to do ?? Depends on your finances.....if the gb you have was shifting fine before the fork broke, then chuck it back together with a new fork and put it back in the car. Take it easy on 3/4/3 gear changes and save for a new late model R33 gearbox (a new gearbox will have all the production improvements already incorporated). Alternatively of you have the $$ now you could invest in a new gb straight away.

I understand your problem, but as a private individual I'm not 'set up' for doing this sort of thing. I'd suggest getting in touch with some of the Oz parts importers, I'm sure that you'll find one that's going to be able to help: www.justjap.com www.japanesemotorsport.com.au www.nismo.com.au

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=61232

I use the factory workshop manual....which I actually BOUGHT and it wasn't cheap. I believe you can (ahem) download it, but I don't know where from, but someone on here will. Strongly suggest you get hold of the WS manual before going any further, but, no, nothing will come adrift when you separate the bell housing - the shafts will still be held in place in the centre plate. It's sort of like a cassette gearbox arrangement. You will be able to immediately get to and replace the broken shift fork. Inspection of the gears will be possible and you should check gear end float (simple feeler gauge job), but inspection of the sychro clerances can only be done properly with the gears separated. However, if the gearbox was shifting normally up until the time the shift fork broke, I'd suggest it's likely the synchros are fine. If you don't disturb the gears and shafts (ie just replace the fork) then there should be no change in any of the clearances, etc (which are set by controlled thickness snap rings). Again, if the gb was shifting fine and making no strange noises there should be no need to do anything further. The only real question is over the bearings. A 'little bit of furr' sounds normal (there's always some fine debris from wear), so it seems likely they'd be fine....but that is a judgement you'll have to make for your self. If you decide to replace the bearings, you'll have to go to the trouble of checking all the clearances, etc, which is all covered in the WS manual.

I must admit I'm scratching my head as to why you didn't look it up yourself since you have access to FAST :confused: Anyway, why not just order the windshield through a Nissan dealer ??

If there's no steel parts on the drain plug magnet there's a good chance the rest of the gb is OK. Yeh, they're a heavy, awkward mongrel... Once you get the gb out, it's just a matter of dropping the bell-housing to get to the shift forks - no special tools required to replace those. If it were me I'd be looking to just replace the broken fork and be done with it, unless there's other obvious damage to gears, bearings, etc. - especially if the geabox was working OK up 'til the time the fork broke. 3/4 shift fork is around the $120 mark. A set of bearings is about $250, then there's gaskets, seals and sealants. Secondhand gearbox will be around $1K. The new gearbox ferni mentions is complete less the 4WD transfer case and shifter mechanism. The advantage of just getting another gb is that your back on the road quicker. Of course with a S/H gb you may be just buying more trouble....

Yeh, that plus the fact that he says it was originally RB20DE powered, but now has an RB25DET installed :Oops: Anyway, that VIN isn't recognised by my version of FAST. But I suspect coupe windshields will be the same regardless of engine, and the same would be true for sedans.

I think that's ferni's old gb, and if so I've got those actual bits (or what's left of them) in my garage squizz: it's good that your not interested in getting new parts....because you can't anyway. Original design 3/4 gears and associated components for R32 GTR's are NLA from Nissan

To get to the selectors, etc requires removing and stripping the gearbox. The fact that your having trouble getting 5th suggests to me that you might be lucky and it's 'just' a broken 3/4 shift fork that's the problem. 5/reverse gears are operated by a sub-link system, one end of which is supported by a boss on the 3/4 shift fork. A broken or damaged 3/4 shift fork would lead to the main sub-link rod wandering around and selection problems. Dropping the gearbox oil will tell the story....

That VIN is not recognised by FAST. Check the blue ID plate attached to the firewall. I suspect the actual VIN number is: ECR33-015960 Certainly that is recognised by FAST and it gives the following PN for the front windshield glass: 72712-22U10 (for a 8/93-1/95 R33 GTS25t Type M coupe) BUT you really need to double check the VIN.

It might be easy to get in New Zealand where these types of engines are more common, but the same is not the case in Oz I'm afraid. Why don't you post details of suppliers in NZ so that he can enquire about importing what he needs from there ?? Probably still be cheaper than buying genuine from Nissan over here.

Multiply HP by 0.75 to give kW.

Only if it has the same sump configuration.

I won't be able to do anything until I'm back at work on Monday (Sunday your time, I think). The genuine part is likely to be pretty expensive unless there's a local (US) equivalent. Another possibility is to contact an Australian parts supplier who might be able to help, example: www.justjap.com www.japanesemotorsport.com.au Cheers PS Don't have any VQ45DE's lying around ??

Have a look at the customs website. All the info you need is there: http://www.customs.gov.au/site/page.cfm?u=4368

HICAS = HIgh Capacity Active Steering It's the 4 wheel steering function.

Basically it means your car is an R32 GTSt Type M, RB20DET 5 speed manual with HICAS. TH1 is the body colour, which is Dark Blue. G is the interior colour, which is Grey (I think). 12/89 is pretty close to 1990 . That's what FAST says, I'll double check when I get a chance, I may have mis-typed a number.

Check page HA13 of the factory WS manual, it describes how to check the PBR sensor. Seems to measure the air mix on the outlet to the cabin.

The chances are slim that the windshield from those other cars will fit. I had a quick look in FAST and there are a number of alternative PN's for the windshield depending on the year of manufacture of your car. Post up the VIN of your car and we should be able to identify the correct PN.

No-one is suggesting they did.....as I said it's not relevant. If you want to be accurate about D-Jet, it was first used on experimental cars in 1959 but didn't see line production until 1967 when it appeared on VW Type III 1600 passenger cars manufactured for the US market. It was an attempt by VW to meet ever more stringent emission standards (yes, even back then). It actually exceeded expectations plus gave improved fuel consumption and driveability. I have a copy of the research paper by the then Chieff Engineer of automotive products at Robert Bosch describing system development, etc FWIW I fitted the D-Jet system from a Volvo 164E to a C210 Skyline running an L28 in the late seventies. It ran reliably and well for a few years until I got an R30. Certainly a vast improvement over the carb'd crap available at the time. This is getting waaaay OT. Sorry to gtr90 for hijacking the thread.